I’m building up my CX (and gravel race) bike and I’m trying to figure out gearing. I’ve toyed around with different gear calculators, but I’m curious what everyone else is using.
11-36 10spd and 44t up front.
For cx racing I’ve run 42x11-28 on 9, and 10 speed. This year I built up 11 speed with 40x11-28. I have an 11-32 but do not have a derailleur long enough to fit it, otherwise I would be using that.
So far I’ve like the 40 more. Gives a bit more range to spin in the middle gears that I ride in.
For cx racing, anything steeper than what you’d be using here, you’re probably running because you don’t have traction anyways.
Running 42 front with 11-36 tubeless for every day riding, steep hills and some mtb trails. For cx racing I have an 11-28 cassette on tubulars.
Live near Seattle, running 10-42 with Absolute Black ovalised 44t.
SRAM force 1 with 50 front and a 10-42 cassette. Perfect for any riding or racing in Northern Virginia.
40T & 11-32. I prefer a higher cadence.
Going to up it to a 42 this year.
42 x 11-40. I took and 11-36, removed a cog and added a Wolf’s Tooth 40. I don’t go to it often–a few times in long races-- but it’s nice to have the bailout gear. This setup also doesn’t require switch to an XD Driver.
CX racing: 40 x 11-32 or 11-28 depending on which wheelset is being used (Ultegra short cage in ‘high’ tension setting). A 38 would probably be fine up front since I only remember hitting the 11 in maybe two events last year in Cat 3. A 42 would also be fine if the 11-32 is on back.
Gravel (there’s a lot of steep, loose stuff in the driftless region) riding: 42 x 11-40 (Roadlink and short cage 105 in ‘high’ tension setting). A 44 would probably work fine, but the 42 is what I already owned. 42 x 40 is a really low gear, but it also let me re-purpose a 10 speed wheel. I also enjoy that gear a lot on 5+ hour outings where you have to carry everything for the ride.
42x11-32
I don’t change between gravel and CX.
Considering an 11-36 next year to save my legs a bit on the steeps in gravel races.
A bit off topic (sort of): If I have a Ultegra 6800 drivetrain and wanted to go to a 1x set-up, what changes do I need to make?
- If I get a Wolf Tooth 40/42 front ring. Do I need to add a chain guide?
- With an Ultegra 6800 long cage rear derailleur, will an 11x32 work?
- Shimano 11-spd chain will work with this set-up?
All you would really need to add are 1x chainring bolts. The rest should work. If you try this and your chain is coming off, then you will need a chain keeper. Most people running a narrow wide chainring find that they do not have an issue with chain retention.
A bit off topic (sort of): If I have a Ultegra 6800 drivetrain and wanted to go to a 1x set-up, what changes do I need to make?
- If I get a Wolf Tooth 40/42 front ring. Do I need to add a chain guide? NO
- With an Ultegra 6800 long cage rear derailleur, will an 11x32 work? YES
- Shimano 11-spd chain will work with this set-up? YES
Only going to add that if you want to use a bigger cassette (36/40/42t), you can just add a Wolf Tooth road link. If you are going from 2x, you shouldn’t even need to buy a longer chain.
Best $22 I have ever spent on bike gear: https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/roadlink
A bit off topic (sort of): If I have a Ultegra 6800 drivetrain and wanted to go to a 1x set-up, what changes do I need to make?
- If I get a Wolf Tooth 40/42 front ring. Do I need to add a chain guide?
- With an Ultegra 6800 long cage rear derailleur, will an 11x32 work?
- Shimano 11-spd chain will work with this set-up?
I would sell the 2x components and use the money to purchase 1x.
The 6800 crank is a compromise and the derailleur doesn’t have a clutch.
A bit off topic (sort of): If I have a Ultegra 6800 drivetrain and wanted to go to a 1x set-up, what changes do I need to make?
One that is almost never mentioned on Slowtwitch (and is quite common in the cyclocross world) is to adjust the tension on Shimano rear derailleurs. The option is available on almost all Shimano road rear derailleurs made in the last 10 years. People piss and moan about clutches, but fail to realize that they can increase tension on a Shimano rear derailleur with 5 minutes and 0 dollars. Park Tool explains the process the adjustment on step 7 of their rear derailleur overhaul guide. No clutch needed, stop chain drops with this 5 minute adjustment. It would be fantastic to see a step-by-step on the front page with how common 1x systems (and misuse/poor setup) are now. (Edit: You don’t need to do the entire 28 step overhaul. Just the first 7 steps and then re-assemble.)
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If I get a Wolf Tooth 40/42 front ring. Do I need to add a chain guide?
No. If you have a narrow wide ring and a new chain sized appropriately, it should be fine. Do the rear derailleur adjustment above. -
With an Ultegra 6800 long cage rear derailleur, will an 11x32 work?
Yes, any 6800 derailleur will work with a 32 cog. The cage length doesn’t have much to do with max tooth capacity. Lennard Zinn recently discussed it here. I ran an 11-36 with a short cage derailleur, but liked the shifting better with a Roadlink. The upcoming 11-34 Ultegra cassette will work fine too. -
Shimano 11-spd chain will work with this set-up?
Yes. Any 11-speed chain will work. I highly recommend using a new chain. If you go further down the rabbit hole, I rotate 3 chains to minimize drivetrain wear on my 1x setups. If introduce a chain with 1000 miles on it with a new (aluminum) chainring, it won’t take many miles for that aluminum chainring to have the equivalent of 1000 miles of wear (I don’t have any resources to back this up though).
People piss and moan about clutches, but fail to realize that they can increase tension on a Shimano rear derailleur with 5 minutes and 0 dollars.
Good to know, but not sure who can complete that 28-step process in 5 minutes. Maybe the same people who can change a flat in 45 seconds…
Having ridden clutched/unclutched/shimano/SRAM/long/short derailleurs with a 1x system, if you use a narrow/wide ring you will not drop your chain.
Clutch helps with chain slap. Not sure a little more tension would make a difference on that front.
My commuter bike is set up with an old 7800 rear derailleur. Dropping off/hopping curbs, trolley tracks, potholes, etc in San Francisco hasn’t knocked it off in 4+ years of daily riding through the city.
People piss and moan about clutches, but fail to realize that they can increase tension on a Shimano rear derailleur with 5 minutes and 0 dollars.
Good to know, but not sure who can complete that 28-step process in 5 minutes. Maybe the same people who can change a flat in 45 seconds…
Cage off, set screw off, 5mm bolt loosened, pull body and spring out. Move spring to ‘other’ hole. Reassemble. I know you’re a busy guy, but don’t knock it until you have given it a try. The entire ‘28 step process’ is for an entire overhaul. We’re just cherry picking a few steps. Even a triathlete can do it.
(No disrespect meant in the slightest) I’m coming at this from as a (middling) cat 3 cross racer vs. a commuter. MTB trails are also where I’m riding my cx bike for handling practice. No clutch needed and very minimal, if any, chain slap issues. A strip of 3M mastic tape should be on every bike’s drive-side chainstay anyways.
Ok you’re right. And also right about offroad riding vs commuting.
It would be great to see a walkthrough of THAT process. Maybe you can post a tutorial? If you do, I’ll tune my rear derailleur, record it, and time it - deal?
Ok you’re right. And also right about offroad riding vs commuting.
It would be great to see a walkthrough of THAT process. Maybe you can post a tutorial? If you do, I’ll tune my rear derailleur, record it, and time it - deal?
I like where your head is at. I’ll work on something the next couple weeks once this patio project is done.
I have an “adventure” bike with 42 x 10-42. I have yet to only do one good long ride on this bike; there was a mix of road, gravel, singletrack, and doubletrack. I can say I used every gear I had, and I for sure ran out of easy gears going up some of the mountain bike trails. I’m considering moving to a 38 in the front.