The best (bicycle) grease ever?

Curious to hear what others have to say - esp industry types and Rappstar (who, for some weird reason I think would know about shit like this…)

http://www.donpatrol.com/ebay/parts/ep1.jpg

http://www.donpatrol.com/ebay/parts/ep2.jpg
http://www.donpatrol.com/ebay/chevron.gif

For years we’ve been using popular (read: expensive) brands of bicycle grease (Park, Phil, Pedros, etc.) believing there was something special about them, that they were formulated just for bikes and that as serious riders we shouldn’t use anything else.

We bought into the hype.

But lately every time we’d reach for that tube of fancy grease we’d wonder, “Is this stuff really better?” We decided to look behind the advertising to see what “premium bicycle grease” is really made from. We also wanted to know if a better formula exists for cycling applications.

We Had Questions …

Are the major brand formulations actually proprietary?
Are the lubrication properties actually better?

To help us decipher fact from fiction we turned to experts at Chevron USA.

Disclosure: We’re not exactly fans of oil companies, but the truth is these people know more about lubricants than anyone in the bicycle industry. Setting our politics aside, we called on them.

We visited Chevron’s industrial lubricants division in Richmond, California and showed them our metal-to-metal applications (bottom brackets, headsets, seat tubes, seat posts, forks, hubs, stems, freewheel cogs & chains).

We then asked their engineers to recommend a water-proof, rust-inhibiting grease that will stand up to heat, cold, rain, snow, grime, grit, sweat and blood. And it has to be a grease that doesn’t migrate – it has to stay where you put it.

We brought with us a few bottles and tubes of popular brands of grease sold to bicyclists. We wanted the Chevron experts to see what our industry is using and to tell us if there is a better formulation available. As the engineers read the labels on the back of the bottles and tubes they began to smile and shake their heads.

We Found Answers …

It turns out the so-called “premium class” bearing grease sold in bike shops is little more than basic bearing grease with a rust inhibitor. It’s not made for bicycles, it’s designed for heavy-duty industrial applications. This kind of grease is bought in bulk, packaged in fancy tubes and sold to bike shops. We learned there’s nothing really special or proprietary about these lubricants.

OK, so know we know the truth about the grease we’ve been using – it’s good stuff but it’s been glorified, hyped and over-sold. Is there a better grease available? The Chevron people said yes and recommended something they call “EP” grease.

EP is a premium grease made to withstand extreme conditions. It’s formulated to protect metal surfaces and bearings against shock, load wear and rust for extended periods of time. Chevron’s industrial customers use it to lubricate bearings in desert and arctic oil fields, in off-shore marine applications, and in military and industrial machine environments all over the world. In other words … it does more than we’ll ever need it to do but it’s the best there is and that’s what we asked for.

The Chevron guys cracked the lid on a barrel of this stuff to show us what they were talking about. Their Ultra-Duty EP grease is certified as NLGI Grade 2, which means that it’s a moderately soft grease that is able to protect rolling contact bearings under extreme pressure and at temperatures approaching 300° Celsius.

“That should cover most riding conditions,” we earnestly noted.

We worked the grease by hand and found it to have a smooth gel-like consistency that is webby without being too sticky. Perfect for bikes!

There’s not much else to say about a giant tub of translucent red goo, so we took a sample back to the shop for testing. We used EP to tune up our shop bikes and, as expected, it does the job and is very easy to work with. We then put EP to the test with plenty of hot summer riding.

After 100 miles of on- and off-road torture we pulled the bottom brackets and steerer tubes off to see if the grease had migrated away from the protected parts. Still there and looking fresh. We hosed down the parts with water, re-assembled them and rode for another 100 miles. The EP grease was still webby and sticking to its parts.

We immediately called Chevron to order some EP for ourselves and our customers. When we asked for small tubes the distributor laughed. “You mean buckets, right?”
The SMALL BUCKET weighs 35 pounds.

Being the resourceful types we are, we found a pharmaceutical jar manufacturer that makes a perfect two-ounce polypropylene container. Unless you find other uses for it, two ounces of this stuff is enough to last a couple of riding seasons.

No fancy labels or clever packaging – just the world’s best grease in a wide-mouth jar that’s easy to use and easy to store.

It’s the ultimate bike grease at half the cost of the famous bike brands!

PRODUCT DETAILS
Chevron Ultra-Duty EP Grease NLGI Grade 2 (“National Lubricating Grease Institute”) High shock load protection High load-carrying protection Extended service lubrication Two-ounce jar with sealed lid

This grease is hand-packed with care by the folks at Don Patrol Velo Garage.

why not just get motomaster white grease or get some high velocity marine grease? you can get them in nice small tubs or tubes too

I gotta admit, from the picture it looks exactly like the tub of wheel bearing grease I have in my garage. Maybe I’ll go check it out - but like they guys started off with, I always figured that automotive and bicycle greases were somehow “different”… I’ve never done a side-by-side comparison with my bicycle grease (Park, Phil, Pedros, some type of white lithium) - maybe the marketing guys got me too.

With my fixie completely stripped and a couple of zip lock baggies full of races and loose bearings, bicycle grease is on my mind these days…

Any grease experts out there? Wrenches? Surely I can’t be the only one wondering about grease…

I gotta admit, from the picture it looks exactly like the tub of wheel bearing grease I have in my garage. Maybe I’ll go check it out - but like they guys started off with, I always figured that automotive and bicycle greases were somehow “different”… I’ve never done a side-by-side comparison with my bicycle grease (Park, Phil, Pedros, some type of white lithium) - maybe the marketing guys got me too.

With my fixie completely stripped and a couple of zip lock baggies full of races and loose bearings, bicycle grease is on my mind these days…

Any grease experts out there? Wrenches? Surely I can’t be the only one wondering about grease…
From the picture…it looks like something I’d put on top of the peanut butter before I inhaled it :slight_smile:

Is it time for breakfast already?

Ok, so curiosity got the better of me, and I went and took inventory of my various greases.

Car:
Valvoline General Multi-Purpose Grease

  • Excellent water resistance
  • Lubricates at temperatures ranging from -5°F to 275°F
  • NLGI #2 Grade Lithium 12-Hydroxysterate EP Grease
  • GM 4733-m; GM 6031-M; Chrysler MS-3701; NLP LB

Bike:
Pedros - no details, fits my grease gun
Park - no details, blue in colour. Seems to hold up fine in the bottom bracket and headset
Simson - (white lithium) no details, used mainly for seatposts and pedals

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The “best” Valvoline grease describes a lot like the stuff these guys are selling - but I can’t really see why I care about such an extreme temp and pressure range (which appears to be the main advantage).

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=3

Synthetic Blend Grease (EP)

DuraBlend Grease is a synthetic blend extreme-pressure, heavy-duty automotive grease specially formulated to protect disc brake wheel bearings, suspensions, universal joints and constant velocity (CV) joints.

DuraBlend Grease is a NGLI #2 GC-LB Lithium Complex EP Grease that is recommended for a wide range of industrial, mining and fleet applications including all U.S., European and Japanese vehicles.

  • Provides excellent high- and low-temperature protection (-25°F to 400°F) over conventional greases
  • Exceptional resistance to heavy loads
  • Moly-Fortified for increased film strength
  • Excellent water repellent
  • Inhibits rust and oxidation

So… high end automotive grease appears to be “better” for industrial and automotive related applications. The better stuff (as opposed to the general purpose I have) is also more water repellant and inhibits rust/oxidation. But is it better for a bike? At the rate I go through grease, price isn’t much of an issue. Unless I buy a new grease gun I’ll stick with the Pedros tube for certain applications, but would switching to say a high end Valvoline or this Chevron stuff be better in my headset and BB?

The bike guys seem to hide their details, so a web comparison is not really feasible. Surely someone on ST knows…

All this grease talk just reminded me that the LBS where I used to hang out as a kid used to use transmission fluid (also red) as “shop lube”. Hmmmm…

It’s afternoon snack time actually :slight_smile:
.

i posted about this sometime ago, and pretty much was scorned for not blindly using “Phil Wood” grease.

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=859830;search_string=jkh2828;#859830

And then of course there’s the Sands & Machine guys, who like 100% Teflon…

http://www.sandsmachine.com/pace.html
http://www.sandsmachine.com/grease_t.htm

The references are kind of old, but interesting nonetheless…

Thanks for the link. I picked up a tube of Park grease a few years ago when I ran out of Phil and was in a hurry (the shop I was at didn’t have any Phil in stock). Seems to work ok, and I can’t really do a comparison. I’m just always wondering what’s better…

Of course, I should have knows that Dan was also into grease… http://www.slowtwitch.com/mainheadings/techctr/maintenance/greasegun.html

How about it Dan - do you have an update for us on your findings?

Honestly, I think the demands a bicycle places on grease are pretty low compared to many other applications out there, and I’d be surprised if the difference in quality between any number of reasonably-made greases really matters.

Now, if you just want to geek out (and there’s nothing wrong with that), I say pick the one with the best color. Red is always good.

This has to be the most specialised thread EVER! I say we start a Khai thread, that would rival the Sergio thread, I mean the guy invented the hottie thread and tried to do an IM on next to no training!

We use the park grease in the shop i work at now, which I like a bit better than the finish line lithium grease from the old shop I worked at. Much as this might seem like blasphemy, the park grease is just about as good as the phil wood grease, which is some nice stuff. I’ve done many a hub overhaul with it and the park hasn’t let me down.

Two things come to mind when I read this: bikes and energy drinks and gels… Anyone ever seen a “bad” bike? They really aren’t so hard to make these days, given how the “ingredients” are well known and easy to get. Anyone seen an energy drink or gel that wasn’t basically easy to get stuff re-packaged?

Lots of stuff out there is held out to be mysterious and arcane, when a little looking around will get you the same thing, pretty much off the shelf (or out of the bucket)

i like phil but usually use finishline.

dan
www.aiatriathlon.com

Always been a big fan of the Phil Wood stuff … always used it on all the high end bikes I worked on in the shop (back when you actually had to repack hub, headset, and bb bearings … showing my age a little - or the age of some of the equipment I got to work on more precisely).

your best source for geeky discussions of grease is rec.bicycles.tech, there are some real engineers there who actually know something about it.
For example this thread:
http://groups-beta.google.com/group/rec.bicycles.tech/browse_thread/thread/66ed47f1e158a93e/ff19c6dc9c09571b

General consensus is bicycle applications are so low-tech that it doesn’t matter much what you use, as long as it is checked regularly.

We use this stuff ( EP grease) at work all the time to grease the bearings of our large industrial robots and over the years, I’ve ‘borrowed’ a bit for home use. Compared to the intended uses, a bicycle bearing isn’t exactly ‘Extreme Pressure’ so it should last for a long time before breaking down. I gave away an 20yr old dura-ace group to a friend that I had maintained with this stuff and the bearings and races are still like new.

Well I’m sold on all the hype. It may be overkill, but I actually tried to buy some Phil Wood on Saturday and the LBS was out of stock. If it sucks, I’m only out $5.06.