Test Riding Bikes at the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival: Some Quick Reviews

I’m at the Sedona Mountain Bike Festival this weekend simply because it’s always been on my bucket list. I got a chance to test-ride a bunch of bikes today so I thought I’d share my thoughts in case anybody is in the market for a mountain bike.

About the trails I rode: I rode a loop that consisted of “Adobe Jack” and “Javelina” and some of the interconnecting trails. You can click on that link to get an idea of what those trails look like or you can take a look at this video (sorry, best one I can find). I’d say that video understates the steepness of everything by about 100% and, also, I’d only watch the first couple of minutes as that’s representative of what I was riding. A lot of people were walking the section you see in the first minute of the video. Conditions today were mixed as there’s still some snow on the ground that’s melting from their from earlier this week.

I’d wager this trail combo is probably a touch more technical than what you’d ride in an Xterra granted my experience riding those courses is pretty limited having only ridden “The Hulk” in Myrtle Beach SC and the National White Water Center just outside of Charlotte NC. Adobe Jack and Javelina are considered pretty tame out here in Sedona according to the locals (but are technical to me) and I would describe those trails and the shorter trails that connect them as rocky and ledgy with punchy climbs, some tight switchbacks, some slick rock, and some smooth flow. One of the reasons I picked this trail was that I could ride there and ride back in about ten minutes each way rather than have to wait for a shuttle. This let me test a lot of bikes in one day and the time on the road gave me a good feel for how the bikes pedaled.

Noe: I’m recalling spec from memory as best as I can. May differ from what I link.

Edit to add: I often call out how a bike performs in a tight, uphill switchback. The reason I do this is that the trend in mountain bike geometry seems to be longer and slacker. This makes bikes stable on fast downhills but there’s no free lunch. The slacker the bike gets the steering becomes “floppy” and a long wheelbase is counterproductive in a tight turn. IMO people racing Xterras are probably better served by shorter and more upright… more “XC”… geometry. However a little extra travel helps over rough stuff. Some companies are turning their full suspension cross country bikes into “down-country” or “XXC” or whatever you want to call it by adding a 120mm fork to a frame designed around a 100mm fork. This does indeed make the bike more capable when pointed down but there’s a tradeoff when climbing in that the seat tube angle is too slack. I’ll add a post later with some more thoughts on this.

Fezzari Signal Peak
Fezzari is an online consumer-direct brand. I think they previously sold a lot of re-branded open mould frames but now they’re starting to develop some of their own. The Signal Peak is one of those. 120mm front and rear, Fox 34 Step Cast, forget the rear shock but it was Fox, SRAM GX Eagle I think, X-fusion dropper. 29x2.3 front and rear… pretty aggressive Maxis tires but I forget which ones specifically. This bike was REALLY NICE. I left the rear shock completely open and it pedaled shockingly well. Geometry worked well for tight switchbacks but always felt in control on some of the steep, rocky descents. Most of the climbs I could ride seated and I only had to shift forward on the steepest of climbs.

Fezzari Cascade Peak
140mm front, 140mm rear. I wanted to try out a longer travel bike to see if the extra cush was worth the weight penalty. I hated this bike. It was very long and very “slack.” Probably good for descending but absolutely miserable in anything tight and twisty. The steering was miserable. I would describe it as “floppy”. You could hold a straight line pretty easily on a descent but any turn left or right would cause the wheel to “flop”. It was very tough to get the front wheel to go where you wanted. I really did not like this bike.

Specialized Epic
100mm front, 100mm rear, no dropper, XO1 Eagle, 2.3" tire front, 2.2" tire rear. Not enough “bike” for some parts of this trail IMO. The big thing was the lack of a dropper. I’m not a fan of the rear suspension. It has a very on/off feel. It would probably be great for smooth single track with the occasional rooty section as it really does ride like a hardtail when the rear shock is closed.

Specialized Epic Evo
120mm front, 100mm rear, dropper, other same as above. The extra fork travel definitely made this bike more capable as did the dropper. However the longer fork slackens the whole bike which gets in your way when you need to move your weight forward on a climb. Many climbs I couldn’t be seated and I had to shift my weight forward of the saddle.

Canyon Neuron AL 7.0
130mm front, 130mm rear, dropper, I didn’t note the tires but they looked almost like skinny XC tires… my gut is to say they were Maxxis Aspens. Strange choice. I had very mixed feelings about this bike. It pedaled very well when seated, handled high speed rocky stuff surprisingly well, and the geometry was great for tight and twisty stuff. However, the SRAM NX shifter was unforgivable. The upshift lever was tiny and very recessed almost like they were trying to hide it. Also, this bike was a pedal strike machine. It was crazy and, frankly, unnerving. In a thirty minute ride I probably had six pedal strikes. The rest of the day on all of the other bikes I rode I had one.

Scott Spark 920
120mm front, 120mm rear, dropper. Beefy tires… somewhere in the 29x2.4" range. I’ve got mixed feelings on the TwinLock remote. When you lock the bike out it’s LOCKED. Might as well be a fully rigid bike. Traction mode is pretty versatile and the bike pedals well. If I were riding smooth single track with only the occasional rooty section or rock garden I’d just leave the bike in “traction” mode. In “open” the bike was very plush but still pedaled reasonably well when seated. I was able to descend fast rocky stuff with more confidence on this bike than any other bike I rode today. However, in my opinion, the whole TwinLock thing just requires too much thought. Also, I don’t like how the TwinLock lever takes up the area normally reserved for your dropper and that the dropper lever sits “on top” of the bar. Great bike but I’m not totally sold on TwinLock.

Giant Trance Advanced 29
I can’t really give this bike a fair shake as they put me on a medium instead of a large but I rode it anyways. All I’ll say is that it pedaled well when seated.

The New Salsa Spearfish
120mm front, 100mm rear. Not sure about the geometry but it worked well for me as it handled tight uphill switchbacks just fine. Interestingly this bike runs a “Super Boost” rear which lets you run either a 27.5x3.0 or 29x2.6 tire. That’s pretty versatile IMO. Ran the suspension open and it pedaled well. Notable was how little feedback there was through the pedals when going through rough rocky sections and/or braking. One very interesting note was bosses for a top tube bag (think along the lines of what’s standard on a TT bike. I could see that being handy in an endurance XC race if you like to use gels.

Yetti SB100
120mm front, 100mm rear. The bike I rode was spec’d pretty darn nice. I will say this bike felt a touch long and accordingly I had trouble in tight uphill switchbacks but on a steep straight climb I could stay seated as the seat tube angle felt pretty steep. The suspension felt very controlled over fast rocky sections and, like the Salsa, there was very little pedal feedback.

Other stuff: SRAM had their new AXS mountain and road groups available for people to tinker with. The mtb shifter was SLICK as was the dropper remote. You get a little bit of audible feedback from both which I’m pretty sure they built in intentionally. The road group they had was a 1x setup on what looked like a gravel bike. I want to say it shifts faster than the old eTap and comparable to Di2.

Hopefully I’ll be able to get my hands on some more bikes tomorrow :slight_smile: even though the forecast is calling for rain :frowning:

Edit: got two more rides in this morning before the rain started. See above.

Cool stuff, thanks. I’ve been reading lots of good things about Fezzari but have never ridden one. I think the Signal Peak is right in the sweet spot for my next bike. Any chance you can get on a La Sal Peak? Bigger travel but I’ve read that it also climbs very well. Curious to hear how it compares to the Signal Peak.

I’ll try one if I can get my hands on one. Super popular bike. Basically all day they were out of demos. The longer travel bikes are definitely more popular out here.

What are the conditions like, after last weekend’s epic snowfall?

Mixed. About a third of the trails are still closed outright and of the trails that are open I would say roughly 1/10th of them is mud. The rest has dried out pretty well. Snow still on the ground in areas that don’t get direct sun. The streams have a pretty healthy flow which makes for some “interesting” stream crossings.

Looks like we dodged the rain somehow this morning so I’m going to go try to get as much riding in as I can.

Added two more bikes from this morning.

That’s awesome, I’m jealous. My next bike (hopefully this spring after IM TX???) is going to be an aggressive XC ‘downcountry’ bike (to complement my Bronson). Rad that you got to ride both the new Salsa and the SB100. My shop doesn’t sell either, so I’ve got my eyes on the Blur with 120mm fork. Kind of surprised you thought the yeti was too long but not the Salsa, since I believe the Salsa is ~10mm longer. Maybe different stem lengths?

I have the SC blur basically setup as 110 front stepcast 34, 100 rear, and maxxis ardents and a dropper… awesome bike. Pedals super well - which I love. Have a hightower LT which is my big bike and obviously not as capable but for where I ride it handles everything.
Highly recommend it.

I made up a geometry comparison chart. Hopefully it posts correctly below. In retrospect, I think they gave me an XL Yeti SB100. That’s the only thing that can explain why I felt what I felt. One thing to keep in mind is that the festival opens at 9:00am and the first 30-45 minutes is sort of chaotic with lots of people clamoring for bikes. Today was especially chaotic since everyone was trying to beat the rain.

Looking at the geometry of the Canyon Neuron compared to the others here, perhaps they ran that bike with a lot of sag which would explain why the suspension felt so forgiving and I had so many pedal strikes. That was also the only bike I ran with “their” pedals which were thick Shimano pedals (I’m running flats out here since I’m unfamiliar with the trails and terrain).

Looking back on the bikes I’ve ridden so far, I felt most “at home” on the Specialized Epic because that was the closest to my current bike (Cannondale F-Si) from a geometry standpoint. However the short suspension and lack of a dropper made it inappropriate for these trails. The balanced suspension bikes like the Fezzari Signal Peak, Canyon Neuron, and Scott Spark felt the most in control over fast rocky stuff, through rock gardens, and down ledgy descents. I don’t think this had so much to do with balanced front and rear suspension as it did with just having more rear suspension. I’m bike shopping right now so, at the moment, I’m pretty sure I’m going to end up with something with 120-130mm of rear travel.

If things dry out tomorrow morning I’m going to try to ride a couple more bikes before I fly out.

BikeFezarri SignalFezarri CascadeSpecialized EpicEpic EvoCanyon NeuronScott Spark 920Giant TranceSalsa SpearfishYeti SB100Sus Front120mm140mm100mm120mm130mm120mm130mm120mm120mmSus Rear120mm140mm100mm100mm130mm120mm115mm100mm100mmHeadtube Angle6866.469.568.567.567.266.567.867.8Seat Tube Angle757574.7573.874.573.874.574.374.1BB Drop35mm34mm39mm39mm38mm43mm39mmWheelbase1182mm1192mm1151mm1159mm1190mm1182mm1196mm1186mm1174mmChainstay430mm432mm438mm438mm440mm438mm435mm433mm437mm

Edit: ugh, chart didn’t post correctly. I’ll take a screenshot later and post it.

I have the SC blur basically setup as 110 front stepcast 34, 100 rear, and maxxis ardents and a dropper… awesome bike. Pedals super well - which I love. Have a hightower LT which is my big bike and obviously not as capable but for where I ride it handles everything.
Highly recommend it.

Oh man, I’ve been meaning to follow up on this post for two months! Finally remembered at a time I was actually in front of the computer!

Do you have the Blur TR build? Or did you build that up yourself? Have you tried swapping out the air spring to make the fork 120mm?

I assume you still highly recommend it? I think I’m going to pull the trigger very soon. I’ve got a trip to Whistler planned, I’d love to bring both the Blur and the Bronson.

I ride a 2018 Scott Spark 120mm, not the RC. For me it is the perfect bike, I can descend pretty rough stuff, but it still goes uphill really well and feels very racy. I had rented a Rocky Mountain 150 mm bike in Utah and decided that I did not need all of that travel and did not enjoy climbing with it.

I upgraded the wheels to Stans Arch, the tires To Schwalbe racing ralph 2.35s, the brakes to XT, the saddle, and a really nice ritchey carbon trail handlebar. I took about 2.5 pounds off the stock setup. The wheel / tire upgrade was very noticeable, the tires are very low crr compared to high crr Maxxis tires, and I could feel a huge difference.

Maxxis tires are very popular because they have a massive selection of tread design, casing width, and are durable but they are very slow rolling. Maxxis was known as a motor sports (jeep and 4X4 tire) brand that has made massive inroads into mountain biking.

The whole CRR benefit has not gained any appreciation with mountain bikers, not sure why but probably because the people who are driving that sports huge growth are closer to moto crossers than endurance junkies. Most of the new to mountain bike types it seems would prefer to shuttle or chairlift up hill vs ride. On Pinkbike recently in a poll of 6000 peeps 65% said they would prefer not to pedal up hill.

I use the twin lock all the time, mostly the medium mode when doing longer rooted or rocky climbs, it allows you to run a pretty forgiving rear suspension, yet eliminate all bob and raise the bike back up to the original geometry when climbing. Occasionally I use the full lockout on road climbs if I have a short road section.

I have always wanted to try the Yeti SB100, I have heard that is a great bike.

Since this thread got resurrected, I ended up getting a Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 for a really good price from my LBS. Spendy but it’s an absurdly capable bike. 26.5lbs for a 130/130 bike. Geometry is perfect for me: slack enough to be confident the way I descend but not so slack it can’t handle tight, twisty stuff. No need for a remote, I just put the rear shock in the “trail” setting and leave it there.

Since this thread got resurrected, I ended up getting a Trek Fuel Ex 9.9 for a really good price from my LBS. Spendy but it’s an absurdly capable bike. 26.5lbs for a 130/130 bike. Geometry is perfect for me: slack enough to be confident the way I descend but not so slack it can’t handle tight, twisty stuff. No need for a remote, I just put the rear shock in the “trail” setting and leave it there.

26.5 is pretty insane for a 130mm bike. Is that stock or tricked out?

The stock bike is tricked out :slight_smile: Stock wheelset is Bontrager XXX which is basically really nice 30mm carbon rims on rebranded DT Swiss straight pull hubs. Full XX1, Guide RS, Carbon bars, Fox 34 Factory. Big difference with the 9.9 is the carbon rear triangle and carbon rocker. I think that alone is 1.5lbs. I paid $6,500 (sticker is $10k) which is spendy for sure but I don’t think I build it for less and it’s truly one bike to do it all. I’m actually selling my XC bike because… what’s the point?

No need for a remote, I just put the rear shock in the “trail” setting and leave it there.

I used to do that but then I realized using it the way it’s meant is WAY better.

The rear shock on the Fuel EX 9.9 is pretty special. “Thru Shaft” and “ReAktiv” though I don’t really know what either of those mean… actually, I sort of understand what Thru Shaft does.

I don’t know how to describe it other than that it’s almost magic: basically feels like a hard tail when pedaling seated but as soon as you hit something… even something small… it opens right up. Even when pedaling up something really steep out of the saddle it doesn’t really bob but still opens up instantly if you hit a rock or root.

Personally for me that’s huge. I actually don’t like a lockout on the front fork. If I’m climbing I find things are easier with front suspension and the extra sag helps with positioning my weight. Rear shock… that’s a different story. That said it’s nice to not have to think about the rear shock and not have another lever by my dropper.

No need for a remote, I just put the rear shock in the “trail” setting and leave it there.

I used to do that but then I realized using it the way it’s meant is WAY better.

As a Sedona local, I would LOVE to have the remote to switch my suspension settings. I ride my cross country bike on all of the trails (Giant Anthem) and leave front and rear on ‘Trail’ but it would be helpful to be able to switch them both on the fly. Right now I never touch them as I always forget which way to go and fear I’ll lock out the rear instead of switching it to ‘downhill’ :slight_smile:

The more you use the switch the better you’ll get at them. It’s worth doing. I reach down and switch the fork and shock quite routinely at this point.

No need for a remote, I just put the rear shock in the “trail” setting and leave it there.

I used to do that but then I realized using it the way it’s meant is WAY better.

As a Sedona local, I would LOVE to have the remote to switch my suspension settings. I ride my cross country bike on all of the trails (Giant Anthem) and leave front and rear on ‘Trail’ but it would be helpful to be able to switch them both on the fly. Right now I never touch them as I always forget which way to go and fear I’ll lock out the rear instead of switching it to ‘downhill’ :slight_smile:

Can’t tell you how many times I’ve gotten part way or all the way down a run and realized that I had one or both lockouts on. No better way to make yourself feel like a total noob out on the trail.

The stock bike is tricked out :slight_smile: Stock wheelset is Bontrager XXX which is basically really nice 30mm carbon rims on rebranded DT Swiss straight pull hubs. Full XX1, Guide RS, Carbon bars, Fox 34 Factory. Big difference with the 9.9 is the carbon rear triangle and carbon rocker. I think that alone is 1.5lbs. I paid $6,500 (sticker is $10k) which is spendy for sure but I don’t think I build it for less and it’s truly one bike to do it all. I’m actually selling my XC bike because… what’s the point?

Calling that bike ‘stock’ should be against the law. :slight_smile: Hope you’re enjoying that sweet ride. How could you not, right? Where are you and what is the terrain like there? Even with all that bling, that’s crazy light for a 130mm bike, especially with fairly wide wheels.

I hear what you’re saying about ditching the XC bike and just keeping the beast described above, I’m sure that bike is more capable than most of us could ever need. I actually decided to go the other direction, though. Last summer all I had was my XC hardtail (71 degree HTA, 100mm travel). It’s great, but also not great. I realized there was so much more out there, so I bought the Bronson (65 degree HTA, 150/160mm rear/front) and I love it. In all honesty it’s too much bike for me, but I bought it as an aspirational bike. Something 130/130 or 130/140 would be perfect for what I can do now, but I really want to get better and so I decided on the Bronson to help push me there.

Then I realized that I’m not interested in riding the hardtail with that stupid HTA anymore, so I’m looking at an aggressive XC bike to epic climbing days.