I am prepping for my first Ironman, and I’m trying to get my bike sorted as best as I can. I’ve got my fit pretty dialed in, I have ordered my deep section wheels, ordered new cockpit/aerobrakes from tri-rig…but I am still wanting more…
Currently have Ultegra DI2 on my 2018 Cervelo P3, but wanting to make the switch to Sram AXS Etap 1x 12 setup. I also wanted to swap the DI2 onto my 2008 P3C as a project bike.
I’ve sourced all the parts I’ll need online (nobody in my area can get the parts 'till 2022),the thing that is holding me back is that I’ve gone into a couple of LBS near me to get their expert opinion/advice (double check I’m not missing/overlooking anything, seen anyone make this switch etc…) and everyone looks at me like I am crazy. I even had the manager of one LBS interrogate me as to why I wanted to make any upgrades to my bike (no wires and it looks cool were not satisfactory to him)
I have seen a few posts on here about Etap issues in the past, but seems like a lot of people still enjoy it and the ease of the wireless setup.
SO, am I crazy for wanting to make this switch? Should I just be happy with my current DI2 setup?
Anyone done something similar/any ‘gotchas’ I should look out for/consider before committing to the switch?
I have Ultegra Di2 on my TT bike and eTap on my road bike. I absolutely love them both and consider them best of breed for each application.
I do not love eTap on a TT bike because the blip box is bulky relative to Di2’s exposed cockpit counterparts, and I dislike that there are no integrated eTap TT brake levers. Plus, I really like Synchro on the TT bike. It is easier to make a Di2 installation virtually invisible with a Tririg cockpit, whereas you cannot effectively hide the four wires and Blip box. I would not choose eTap for a TT bike.
On the other hand, the eTap shifting UI on the road bike is second-to-none. And, the wireless is fantastic on a road bike. I would not choose Di2 for my road bike.
I have Ultegra Di2 on my TT bike and eTap on my road bike. I absolutely love them both and consider them best of breed for each application.
I do not love eTap on a TT bike because the blip box is bulky relative to Di2’s exposed cockpit counterparts, and I dislike that there are no integrated eTap TT brake levers. Plus, I really like Synchro on the TT bike. It is easier to make a Di2 installation virtually invisible with a Tririg cockpit, whereas you cannot effectively hide the four wires and Blip box. I would not choose eTap for a TT bike.
On the other hand, the eTap shifting UI on the road bike is second-to-none. And, the wireless is fantastic on a road bike. I would not choose Di2 for my road bike.
I agree on the difficulty of hiding the blipbox to make a clean front-end. For 1x, however, the synchro shift is not needed, so you are not losing anything with eTap vs Di2. In terms of shifting performance, eTap does have a little more delay than wired Di2, and it’s noticeable, but I am not sure that’s a big issue for TT bike. At the end of the day, I think it will come down to if we think 1x 12sp will give you enough/better gearing than Di2.
Good point on the 1x thing vis-Ã -vis synchro and FD shifting. I can only speak to eTap in general, since I am not a 1x guy.
But for the shift speed, I honestly do not notice any difference between my Di2 and eTap bikess. eTap is so quick, that it is usually done before my finger is leaving the button. Same with Di2. (The exception is if I am shifting to an easier gear under load, that does take a little longer, but it takes longer on both.)
Doesn’t ETAP 1x12 require an XDR hub for the rear wheel? If you’ve already ordered wheels, might mean replacing or modifying the rear before you’re ridden it.
That’s also a consideration. The AXS eTap 12sp and Di2 have no interchangeability, unlike in the 11sp world. AXS uses different chain, front chainring(s), XDR hub, and XDR cassette.
This is some great insight, thank you for sharing. Definitely something to consider before I make the switch.
I also ordered the tri-rig delta brake cover, was considering hiding the blip box in there, but it seems like line-of-sight causes some issue for shifting speed/connectivity.
Doesn’t ETAP 1x12 require an XDR hub for the rear wheel? If you’ve already ordered wheels, might mean replacing or modifying the rear before you’re ridden it.
That is correct, it does. Luckily I have found a XDR hub that I could swap into the wheelset I ordered.
But… after all the insights here, I am honestly leaning towards sticking with DI2 and finding gains elsewhere to invest the cash needed for the swap to work, i.e. make everything compatible (rear mech, blips, clicks, blip-box, cranks, chain, etc)
I have Ultegra Di2 on my TT bike and eTap on my road bike. I absolutely love them both and consider them best of breed for each application.
I do not love eTap on a TT bike because the blip box is bulky relative to Di2’s exposed cockpit counterparts, and I dislike that there are no integrated eTap TT brake levers. Plus, I really like Synchro on the TT bike. It is easier to make a Di2 installation virtually invisible with a Tririg cockpit, whereas you cannot effectively hide the four wires and Blip box. I would not choose eTap for a TT bike.
On the other hand, the eTap shifting UI on the road bike is second-to-none. And, the wireless is fantastic on a road bike. I would not choose Di2 for my road bike.
I agree on the difficulty of hiding the blipbox to make a clean front-end. For 1x, however, the synchro shift is not needed, so you are not losing anything with eTap vs Di2. In terms of shifting performance, eTap does have a little more delay than wired Di2, and it’s noticeable, but I am not sure that’s a big issue for TT bike. At the end of the day, I think it will come down to if we think 1x 12sp will give you enough/better gearing than Di2.
Where I live is pretty flat and the course I am going to be racing is pretty flat too. I’d Imagine I would have enough gearing with 1x for now. Was looking at a 52t 1x setup from Rotor that is supposed to be compatible with AXS and my current bottom bracket.
As for whether the gearing would be better, I am not sure. I’d imagine not noticeably?
I agree on the difficulty of hiding the blipbox to make a clean front-end.
I just got 2017 Felt IA and blip box goes into bento box nicely hidden so cockpit is very clean. I can see that it’s not the case for other TT bikes.
I agree on the difficulty of hiding the blipbox to make a clean front-end.
I just got 2017 Felt IA and blip box goes into bento box nicely hidden so cockpit is very clean. I can see that it’s not the case for other TT bikes.
Do you notice any lag in shifting/connectivity issues with storing the blip-box inside your bento box? I have heard some have had issues if there is not a clean ‘line-of-sight’ from blip-box to derailleur. (I’d also imagine that material of bento-box/other device used to conceal blip-box, does matter)
From a marginal gains perspective, just remember that the new AXS chains run ~1-2 watts less efficient (on 250w input) than something like a DuraAce chain. Also most 1x setups will run with additionally higher drivetrain friction (~1w) as you are using a smaller than optimal chainring which requires smaller than optimal cogs for the majority of riding (unless you are going aero-or-die old school style and running a 56t or something like that, which is OK)
I personally love 1x on my mountain bike, and on my commuter bike as it’s just so simple, looks great, less to break, etc, but if I were competing for place, or fighting for time in a racing scenario, I’d hate to spend a bunch of money on a new drivetrain and then spend my whole race wondering if I should have dropped even more money on an optimized chain or pulley system or whatever, to try and get those watts back.
From a marginal gains perspective, just remember that the new AXS chains run ~1-2 watts less efficient (on 250w input) than something like a DuraAce chain. Also most 1x setups will run with additionally higher drivetrain friction (~1w) as you are using a smaller than optimal chainring which requires smaller than optimal cogs for the majority of riding (unless you are going aero-or-die old school style and running a 56t or something like that, which is OK)
I personally love 1x on my mountain bike, and on my commuter bike as it’s just so simple, looks great, less to break, etc, but if I were competing for place, or fighting for time in a racing scenario, I’d hate to spend a bunch of money on a new drivetrain and then spend my whole race wondering if I should have dropped even more money on an optimized chain or pulley system or whatever, to try and get those watts back.
I wish I had the legs to power a 56T 1x setup! lol
I think sticking with the DI2 wins after that argument as I am going to be using the bike for racing. Have to agree that the 1x does look clean though. I did hear somewhere that you can get +50w savings for style, right?
Will save getting an optimized Etap setup for the next build
I’d wait anyway for the Shimano 12 speed upgrade that is coming. May be some comparability with what you have and even wheels unless they change the free hub but I’m waiting to see what comes out. As for 1x it seems to be a cult to some people but I don’t get it besides on a mtb…
I’d wait anyway for the Shimano 12 speed upgrade that is coming. May be some comparability with what you have and even wheels unless they change the free hub but I’m waiting to see what comes out. As for 1x it seems to be a cult to some people but I don’t get it besides on a mtb…
Yeah that is a good idea! Would be nice if they keep the same hubs too!
Yeah after doing some reading online and the responses above, I’m not sure 1x really makes sense for me. I just like the clean aesthetic of no front derailleur. Plus some say it’s more aero, but seems like you lose the aero gains in drivetrain friction so idk lol
I think I’m sticking with Shimano for now though
Lololololol if I would have seen that video sooner, it would have saved me so much time!
Haha needed that laugh! Thank you!
You’re quite welcome. Our mechanics swear at SRAM too. Shifting, battery life, chainring flex, and on and on. I would put anything that Josh, who posted above, as gold. He’s the real deal.
For not necessarily readily defined reasons, I prefer—or at least, use Etap over di2. I’ve never had issues with Etap and love it, but at this point, it’s probably just because it’s the devil I know. But, despite my personal preference, I would say that, yes I think you are probably crazy for making such a big effort for such an “upgradeâ€
From a marginal gains perspective, just remember that the new AXS chains run ~1-2 watts less efficient (on 250w input) than something like a DuraAce chain. Also most 1x setups will run with additionally higher drivetrain friction (~1w) as you are using a smaller than optimal chainring which requires smaller than optimal cogs for the majority of riding (unless you are going aero-or-die old school style and running a 56t or something like that, which is OK)
I personally love 1x on my mountain bike, and on my commuter bike as it’s just so simple, looks great, less to break, etc, but if I were competing for place, or fighting for time in a racing scenario, I’d hate to spend a bunch of money on a new drivetrain and then spend my whole race wondering if I should have dropped even more money on an optimized chain or pulley system or whatever, to try and get those watts back.
We all have to pick out watt-saving choices. This is one where I will take the marginal aero gain/much better aesthetic looks/cost savings/easy of use of a 1x set up every time over the alternative 2x set up unless training/racing in a very hilly area and not spend one second of my race wondering what you suggest above. I can’t remember all the testing we have seen, but a straw from a BTA bottle, a flapping strap from a helmet, a water bottle on down tube produce similar losses/gains. Again, we all have to make choices and decide where we draw lines as I’m a big believer in these gains/losses adding up if you give up too many. But, for me, the overall 1x system is a clear net gain, not a loss.
