Just replaced my old cork pads with SwissStop yellows and even after having tri bike at LBS adjusting rear brake, the pads are ridiculously close to the rim (Zipp CC 808)… anyone ever slightly filed such pads back a bit?? Trying to find a solution to avoid any possible rub, without buying new pads again. Thanks for input.
Just replaced my old cork pads with SwissStop yellows and even after having tri bike at LBS adjusting rear brake, the pads are ridiculously close to the rim (Zipp CC 808)… anyone ever slightly filed such pads back a bit?? Trying to find a solution to avoid any possible rub, without buying new pads again. Thanks for input.
Yeah, you can definitely grind down the pads a bit. That’s what happens anyway when they wear, you’ll just shorten their service life a bit so don’t take off more than necessary. A bit of sandpaper is all you really need to take off a few mm of each pad to gain some clearance.
-Dave
I know people have milled the pads down a bit (depending on how wide their brakes can go). A quick pass with an end mill to minimize heat buildup.
Yes but they still squealed with my new carbon clinchers until I started using the new zipp pads. Now all quiet.
Swiss Stop Yellow Kings are known to squeal. If you use Campy, definitely switch to their carbon pads, the won’t squeal. If you’re using Shimano/SRAM, try the Enve or Reynolds blue carbon pads. Supposed to generate lower heat and less likely to glaze or squeal. With my Parlee and Enve 6.7’s. I take the pads to the grinder or file and thin them out slightly to allow clearance for fatter rim.
Just replaced my old cork pads with SwissStop yellows and even after having tri bike at LBS adjusting rear brake, the pads are ridiculously close to the rim (Zipp CC 808)… anyone ever slightly filed such pads back a bit?? Trying to find a solution to avoid any possible rub, without buying new pads again. Thanks for input.
Mine were doing the same with my Reynolds. I went out and found some nice downhills a rode the brakes the whole way down. After a few passes the breaks where good to go. Also adjusted break spacing as wide as it could go and as the pads wear down adjust in tighter.
Swiss Stop Yellow Kings are known to squeal. If you use Campy, definitely switch to their carbon pads, the won’t squeal. If you’re using Shimano/SRAM, try the Enve or Reynolds blue carbon pads. Supposed to generate lower heat and less likely to glaze or squeal. With my Parlee and Enve 6.7’s. I take the pads to the grinder or file and thin them out slightly to allow clearance for fatter rim.
If I remember correctly the Zipp manual explicit says not to use Campy brake pads.
The new gray Zipp Tangente Platinum Pro pads are really nice. I’ve used the corks, the yellows, the blue reynolds, and I like the new Tangente pads the best.
Are they close or are they rubbing? Ride it down your street & use the brakes once or twice. If they’re still close but not rubbing after that, you’re good to go. Don’t bother filing down the brake pads, they’ll wear in normally. If theyre really rubbing then I’d just ride the bike for a few days and allow the pads to wear down. I have Sram Red brakes with SS yellow pads on my zipp FC 303 wheels and they did not require filing or anything out of the ordinary. No rubbing ever.
Swissstop yellow pads are fairly old technology. They have since been supplanted by the Swissstop Black Prince pads. I’d have chosen those. They build up far less heat and give better wet ride braking.
Swissstop yellow pads are fairly old technology. They have since been supplanted by the Swissstop Black Prince pads. I’d have chosen those. They build up far less heat and give better wet ride braking.
Damn it! Thanks to all for input… now not sure whether to file down, buy ANOTHER new set, change the rear only back to cork, etc.
Another solution that I adopted on the B10 is the older model Ultegra brake shoe has a overall thinner profile that works. My suggestion is to bring your current brake shoe to your LBS and look for the older model Ultegra or several after market shoes and you might find one that is thinner than your stock shoe.
Thanks for suggestion!
Not to worry about using some 80 grit or 120 grit sandpaper and using light pressure, sanding them down. It doesn’t take much to do. I’ve done it on 2 bikes, and even in the hotel room at IM Cabo for a friend (after catching a cab to the local Wal-Mart and finding a sheet of sandpaper). Remember, go slowly and use light pressure. Check, and re-check the new clearance, and sand some more if needed. In all, took me about 15 minutes to do per bike.
FWIW: I too USED to use the Yellow SwissStop pads, then switched to the Zipp Platinum Pro gray colored pads.