Looking for advices on track bikes, and wheels.
Anyone can suggest a knowledgeable track cycling forum where I can ask questions and get some answers ?
For info looking to build a wheelset for indoor velodrome.
Louis 
I haven’t really come across much except reddit.
There a few others here that are track racers.
Which track are you at?
bikeforums has the most active “dedicated” forum, but that’s not saying much. Good information historically and folks still lurk, but there is nothing on par with slowtwitch.
Facebook has some groups, track sprinter group and some enduro groups… more activity but also more “all over the place” that you get with anything on FB.
What are you questions? There are some knowledgeable trackies here.
@jaretj: In eastern Canada, there soon will be an indoor velodrome:
https://centrenationalbromont.com/velodrome/
So I got my hands on a cheap alloy frameset, and want to add some wheels to it.
Since budget is limited I’d like to have only one wheelset, and play with cogs and chainrings depending on type of events.
- Wich hubs brands and models are good values at low price (under $130./pr.) good, big bearings etc: Bitex, Polso (??), Ridea, DT Swiss, …?
- Is radial 20h lacing front (24h 2x rear) too “soft” for track ? Or it’s fine with deep carbon rims if it’s big spokes, like Sapim CX Sprint ?
- Rim width 23 mm indoors ? Since there will be no side winds, I plan on using 22-23 mm tubular tires for most of the time.
- 60 mm front, 80-88 m rear depth for rims ? That would be my choice. Generic, like Farsports, I’ve had good products from them so far.
Louis
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pretty much anything… I’ve used Dura Ace all the way down to no name’s and pretty much… a hub is a hub. Main choice is going to be whether you want sealed bearings or cup & cone.
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Fine until (if) it isn’t. Most enduro’s (basically everyone that isn’t spending more time squatting than riding) don’t have a ton to worry about when it comes to wheel stiffness.
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23 is fine, most common size for (track) tubulars anyways.
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I’ve got a set just like that, they’ve been fine for a few years now. You can also get away with just running a disc 100% of the time on the track if you like.
I’m medium experienced - 10+ years actively track racing.
Can’t go wrong with DT Swiss, generally. Don’t have experience with those other ones.
Lacing depends somewhat on what kind of track rider you are. I’m an endurance rider, and have had zero problem with road lacing. And actual road front wheels (with a bolt-on skewer). If you’re a sprinter or a very strong endurance rider, you might consider more. Sprinters definitely report being able to feel flexy wheels during the massive torque when accelerating from low speed.
23mm external width and 22-23mm tires are just fine.
If you’re racing, just use a rear disc! Unless out of price range. I have a non-disc rear wheel I sometimes put on for training and warmup, but my disc tends to be on 70% of the time. For the front, just get the most aero wheel you can. Indoors there can sometimes be drafts you can feel, but not a big deal at all unless you’re very sensitive to “wind.” 60mm front is fine, but also no real reason to not use a ~80mm. Unless maybe you’re a super strong sprinter, since the really deep wheels can be pretty flexy. Most elite track sprinters use front tri-spokes because they’re both super stuif and pretty aero.
If I was building wheels I’d be looking at the double sided DT Swiss hub that takes a lock-ring on both sides.
Like this one:
They’re fairly well priced too.
If you’re racing, just use a rear disc! … also no real reason to not use a ~80mm .
+1 from me.
+1 from my 63kg wife with limited track experience.
No major reason other than budget constraints not to use deepest possible on the track. (or trispoke front)
a lock-ring on both sides.
+1 here too.
@jaretj: In eastern Canada, there soon will be an indoor velodrome:
https://centrenationalbromont.com/velodrome/
So I got my hands on a cheap alloy frameset, and want to add some wheels to it.
Since budget is limited I’d like to have only one wheelset, and play with cogs and chainrings depending on type of events.
- Wich hubs brands and models are good values at low price (under $130./pr.) good, big bearings etc: Bitex, Polso (??), Ridea, DT Swiss, …?
- Is radial 20h lacing front (24h 2x rear) too “soft” for track ? Or it’s fine with deep carbon rims if it’s big spokes, like Sapim CX Sprint ?
- Rim width 23 mm indoors ? Since there will be no side winds, I plan on using 22-23 mm tubular tires for most of the time.
- 60 mm front, 80-88 m rear depth for rims ? That would be my choice. Generic, like Farsports, I’ve had good products from them so far.
Louis
There are a few of us hidden here in plain sight.
I have had 88mm LightBicycle Carbon rims and Shimano DA hub built up with Sapim CX Sprint spokes. For the most part I race one of my road wheels on the front with a bolt on skewer. My favorite is the LB 3spoke actually. I have yet to see any negatives of that route yet, even if traditional trackies frown on that.
Cogs and rings can be very expensive but if you stick with the classic 1/8 gear, you can find a nice collection at a reasonable price. Just grab and mark a couple chains for the different lengths that you need.
Thanks for the information.
I have a nice 80 ( or is it 88 ?) mm front wheel that sits somewhere without being used outside of the odd TT once or twice a year, I could just bolt it to the track frame.
And @jaretj, ok, nice info on that rear DTSwiss hub specs. With only one wheel to buy I can go for aero spokes, nice carbon rim and a few cog sizes.
HOpe the velodrome opening will be on time !
Thanks guys !
Louis
I’m kind of late to this discussion, there a lot of great comments that are spot on. If I were to have just one set of wheels for training and racing I think the would be in the category of the zipp 808’s, I would prefer bolt on hubs, but a front road hub would work. A track hub with a ‘flip/flop ‘ hub would ease the gear changes while training. Someone mentioned ‘lock rings’ - don’t use them. Throw them away !
As far as spoke count. That depends on how big of a guy you are and what you’ll be riding. More spokes - the tighter the wheel, but the less aero.
Go tubular. I get nervous with clinchers on the track. 23 mm rim width is just right cause it’s hard to get tires more narrow.
To upgrade to racing, all you’ll need is a rear disc wheel. Then since you’ll be indoors, maybe a front disc too!
I heard about that build last week it sounds like it is going to be a spectacular venue. I’m envious !
Don’t hesitate to reach to the group, there is a tremendous amount of experience ‘lurking around.’
Definitely tubulars.
My home track is a 166 so the turns are steep.
Doing a flying 200 on clinchers is scary, I’m over 2Gs in the turns so with me and the bike I’m approaching 160 kilograms at 40 mph. I need more than 120psi to keep the tires from squirming.
Our track requires a lockring but I regularly ride without one.
I train on 60mm CSC track wheels. About half the team has a set of 60s or 88s. They’re very economical and very stiff and durable.