Struggling with bike fit numbers

I used the competitivecyclist.com fit calculator and I seem to be having trouble finding frame sizes that conform to their recommendations.

First, do these measurements appear to be ‘normal’ (i.e., does anything seem out of proportion)?

Second, anybody have any ideas on frames for a person of these dimensions? (Road frames.)

Inseam: 33.ish
Trunk: 26.5
Forearm: 13.25
Arm: 23.75
Thigh: 23.75
Lower Leg: 21.75
Sternal Notch: 57.5
Total Body Height: 69.5

Anyone?

Surely *somebody *wants to tell me I’m as well-proportioned as Vitruvian Man.

it’s almost impossible to know if those measurements are exact on the internet. go into any good bike shop, they should be able to fit you as far as frame sizing. note: when i say good i mean somewhere that’ll take the time to figure out your fit, particularly shops that have a fitting system of some sort, NOT the places that say you’re a ##cm because that’s what they happen to have on the floor.

a lot of shops will fit you even if you’re upfromt about just shopping aoround for a bike. If you do get a good fit somewhere, but end up buying your bike online/elsewhere, just go back and buy a few extra tubes or something.

Thanks for the response.

I knew nobody could tell me whether the measurements themselves were accurate. I was just curious if they look normal, i.e., does anything appear to be *unusually *long or short in proportion to everything else.

Bike shops will fit you even if you don’t intend to buy anything there? Sure, they’ll do it for $200, but that’s what I’m trying to avoid here. I just need a frame size to use as a jumping off point.

Play with this.
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=FIT_CALCULATOR_INTRO

If you don’t get those measurements precise, then don’t trust the results.

Did you see their instructions for each measurement? They provide a photo as well as a detailed description of where to measure. It’s also pretty much a certainty that you’ll need a helper to get those measurements.
Then to make sure repeat them all again and compare to eliminate error.

What are the specific outputs you were given, that don’t seem to fit?

Let’s say I’m going for The Eddy Fit, and I’m looking at a nice steel Bianchi.
If I choose the top-tube measurement to base off of (do I use ‘virtual top tube’ or ‘actual top tube’?), I’d get a seat tube of 53cm, which is fully 3-4cm shorter than the calculator says I need. Does that even really matter?
Is that a problem that can be fixed by simply making the seat *post *longer?

The Competitive Fit (cm)

Seat tube range c-c: 55.5 - 56.0
Seat tube range c-t: 57.2 - 57.7
Top tube length: 53.6 - 54.0
Stem Length: 11.2 - 11.8
BB-Saddle Position: 76.8 - 78.8
Saddle-Handlebar: 52.4 - 53.0
Saddle Setback: 5.6 - 6.0

The Eddy Fit (cm)

Seat tube range c-c: 56.7 - 57.2
Seat tube range c-t: 58.4 - 58.9
Top tube length: 53.6 - 54.0
Stem Length: 10.1 - 10.7
BB-Saddle Position: 76.0 - 78.0
Saddle-Handlebar: 53.2 - 53.8
Saddle Setback: 6.8 - 7.2

The French Fit (cm)

Seat tube range c-c: 58.4 - 58.9
Seat tube range c-t: 60.1 - 60.6
Top tube length: 54.8 - 55.2
Stem Length: 10.3 - 10.9
BB-Saddle Position: 74.3 - 76.3
Saddle-Handlebar: 54.9 - 55.5
Saddle Setback: 6.3 - 6.7

3-4cm shorter than the calculator says I need. Does that even really matter?
Is that a problem that can be fixed by simply making the seat *post *longer?

It doesn’t matter much because you have the seatpost to adjust…but by going with a seatpost that’s 3-4 cm higher from the frame, your headset will be 3-4 cm lower relative to your seat. This might put you at an uncomfortable drop. That, of course, can be made up for with 3cm of spacers below the stem, or an upturned stem…so it’s all good.

Go by a frame’s ‘effective’ top tube length.

Before commiting to buy a frame based on these measurements, make sure you took them all carefully, correctly, precisely.