The bolt holding the cable guide at the bottom of my bike is completely stripped. I tried tapping it with a torx wrench but that one got stripped after one full turn, so I screwed that up. I called the QR dealership and they’ll send me a new bolt, but apparently the cable guide is built into the frame so that part itself can’t be replaced.
Reason I was trying to get it out was because I was told that the cable guide comes out to show a bigger opening, so it’s not so needle-in-the-haystack with doing a derailleur cable job. So either way, the QR rep is mailing me a new bolt.
Any ideas to get that sucker out? It’s flat, so I can’t use a hacksaw to cut a divot for a flathead screwdriver. I looked up a few different techniques too but I don’t want to damage my bike. Is epoxy strong enough to cement in an allen wrench?
EDIT: I made a post earlier but the tip for the underlying problem didn’t work.
I don’t know specifically about the bike or where the bolt is so not sure this would work, but for stripped screws, we use a plastic rubber sheet, I guess equate it to a swimming cap, and apply pressure and turn. So, in your case, I would get a swim cap, put it against where the stripped allen bolt is, apply some pressure with the 5mm or whatever size, push hard, and turn. Hopefully that gets it out.
If that doesn’t work, as a last resort, we just drill it out using an electric drill through the center of the stripped screw. This can really mess up your bike but again, last resort if you have no choice.
it’s a 2013 QR Kilo C; the bolt is right on the bottom but the swim cap isn’t a bad idea… I want to avoid using screw extractors or drills but running out of options. I took it to a few shops and they basically said I’m screwed. (hah. Pun.)
You could try using JB weld to “epoxy” in an allen wrench. No idea if it will hold.
The above comment about cutting a slot for a flat head has helped me out at work a number of times, although if that sucker is in there enough to strip an allen (assuming you used the correct size) it will be hard to get it out using a flat head. I would say use an impact driver with a flat head attachment , but since your frame appears to be carbon that’s a bad idea.
Another option if the bolt head is big enough is using a bolt extractor. They grab harder the hard your twist. I use them at work a lot. They can be had at NAPA or the like. Go buy a kit they are cheap enough and you should be able to source the right size. You’ll probably need one for an 8mm to 10mm hex bolt. I have used them on rounded allen bolts before (last Audi TT timing belt job comes to mind) getting out the stupid allen bolts that hold on the crank pulley is a total PITA.
You could try using JB weld to “epoxy” in an allen wrench. No idea if it will hold.
The above comment about cutting a slot for a flat head has helped me out at work a number of times, although if that sucker is in there enough to strip an allen (assuming you used the correct size) it will be hard to get it out using a flat head. I would say use an impact driver with a flat head attachment , but since your frame appears to be carbon that’s a bad idea.
Another option if the bolt head is big enough is using a bolt extractor. They grab harder the hard your twist. I use them at work a lot.
They can be had at NAPA or the like. Go buy a kit they are cheap enough and you should be able to source the right size. You’ll probably need one for an 8mm to 10mm hex bolt. I have used them on rounded allen bolts before (last Audi TT timing belt job comes to mind) getting out the stupid allen bolts that hold on the crank pulley is a total PITA.
What would it grab on to? The bolt is flat so it’s flush with the frame. I’ve got gorilla epoxy which says 3300 bond strength. hopefully it’s enough.
I have gotten the above kit to work with very flat bots in the past, including allens. Without a pic I can’t be more specific. If it is flush I.e. countersunk then no that kit wont work.
Go to your auto supply store and they will sell you the right bits. (pretty cheap and handy to have in your arsenal)
Next time, make sure you lube all your bolts. Whenever I buy a new bike, I strip it down and lube everything and torque it to the correct setting and ride safely from there. Depending on the material it’s screwed into, you need to use the correct lube.
In future, as soon as you feel the head stripping, STOP. Then give a slight tightening to the bolt, but don’t strip in the other direction. Take the allen key and give it a slight tap with a small hammer to try and break the frozen bolt. Do that gently several times. Depending on the material it’s screwed into, some penetration oil into and around the bolt. Let it sit for a while, tap with a hammer again, loosen, tighten gently and slowly increasing.
If that all doesn’t work, a dremmel to make a slot for a screwdriver might work, but a drill and tap will likely work better. IF it’s completely seized, then it can be drilled out and a ‘heli-coil’ can be screwed in it’s place, but that’s pretty much a last resort for your proper bikes store to do or other professional.
I wouldn’t try they dremel the slot, I would bet you strip / brake the head in no time then you will really be screwed. I think a screw exctactor is your best bet. Mine don’t look like the ones in the photo they require you to first drill down into the bolt and then insert a bit that as you turn to remove the screw the bit diggs more and more into the screw metal.
Here is a cheap set from Harbor freight. I would get a better set since those are made from cheap steel and they tend to strip. Get a good set it will last you forever and work great. Best option in my opinion
I’ll throw in, as said before, you gotta make sure you lube all screws with at least something, I have the bike grease by park tools, usually works okay. But usually I use the two solutions I mentioned here depending on the situation. If the allen key is easy to access and open, just notice it with a dremel and back out with a flathead. Or, the JB weld thing does work too. You just need to have an allen key you’re willing to waste (who doesn’t have a million of these things) and JB weld. Your gorilla stuff might work, but JB bond I know does the job, your stuff might muck up the hole and you can’t do the JB bond anymore.
Just an out of the box idea, have you thought about pulling the cranks and bottom bracket and seeing if there is enough sticking up to attack the problem from the inside?
They can be had at NAPA or the like. Go buy a kit they are cheap enough and you should be able to source the right size. You’ll probably need one for an 8mm to 10mm hex bolt. I have used them on rounded allen bolts before (last Audi TT timing belt job comes to mind) getting out the stupid allen bolts that hold on the crank pulley is a total PITA.