Here is an article on STI Shifters on cow horns…
http://bethelcycle.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=176
Has anyone tried this?
Here is an article on STI Shifters on cow horns…
http://bethelcycle.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=176
Has anyone tried this?
Faris Al Sultan does it. Although he might ride Campy. In either case, it is not uncommon to mount standard road shifters on the bull-horns.
I used to do all my TT’s with clips on my road bars (with STI). The shifting isn’t that bad (having to move one arm off the clips to shift). But the convenience of shifting on a (nearly) flat course with bar-ends…
And Dan would argue that in all but the steepest of cases should you remain in the aero position.
I did Lake Placid as my first Ironman on a road bike that I converted to more of a tri set-up, part of which included throwing my STI’s onto a set of cow horns. Worked great for me for the year that I rode with that setup. I’ve since bought a tri specific bike that has bar ends, but I had no problems shifting w/ the STI on cowhorn setup. I could stay in my aero postion and just take one arm off the arm rest to bump the shifter and then settle right back in.
I had my dedicated time trial bike set up this way the first year I rode it. It worked great. I’ve since switched to bar ends, but only because I wanted to use the STI shifters on a rode bike I built.
As an aside, my wife has a fused wrist with some associated muscle weakness in the hand and cow horns with STI shifters is the only set up that works efficiently and safely for her on a rode bike.
don’t you mean bull horns?
It’s worth mentioning that Shimano does not want people doing this according to their technical service phone line answering people in California at their 1-800 number- we asked years ago. Here’s what they told us:
This is not what the STI dual control lever was designed for. The STI dual control lever was specifically intended for use on curved, drop handlebars. As such, the radius of the curve of the brake lever/shifter mimics the bend of most popular drop style conventional road bike handlebars. When mounted on bullhorn style pursuit base bars the distance from the STI lever to bar is as much as 3cm closer than it is on drop bars depending on the bullhorn base bar model. This means the brake lever can be pulled all the way to the cowhorn base bar, bottoming out against the base bar and ending the actuation of the brakes.
Now, there are bullhorn style base bars especially configured with a curve that mimics that of a conventional road bike drop style handlebar, such as Dedacciai. However, this is not universal at all or even the norm. Bullhorn style base bars that work well with STI levers are the exception rather than the the rule, and the bike fitter would do well to double check their work before OK’ing this somewhat awkward and extremely heavy (when compared to lightweight brake levers such as Dia-Compe 188’s or Visiontech and bar end shifters) configuration.
I used to be a believer in this and argued that quite a number of teams in the Tour de France configured their TT bikes this way- so it must be OK. However, I did Ironman Canada in 1997 with STI levers on my bike and then again in 1999 with bullhorns, lightweight brake levers and bar end shifters. I was 2 mph faster average speed on that course on the bullhorn base bars without STI levers and equipment selection/set-up could have been a minor contributing factor in this.
Additionally, I mentioned this to Dan Empfield at his house and he demonstrated a technique for climbing with bar-end shifters that was highly effective.
Ultimately, it boils down to personal preference, but it is worth menitoning that Shimano did not intend the levers to be used like this, has advised against it in some cases and there are effective alternatives that weigh less and work a little more elegantly.
I had them (STI shifters) on my old TT bike which had a Deda Aeroblue/TT aerobar. They work perfectly with that aerobar.
Dave in VA
**I mentioned this to Dan Empfield at his house and he demonstrated a technique for climbing with bar-end shifters that was highly effective. **
You’re a bigger tease than kittycat. What’s the technique?
Thats a pretty weird cow.
My LBS gave me the same technical explanation when I was building my Tri bike a few months ago.
But as Vitus979 said - what is the technique ? ?
Those dedblues are ideal for STI due to their rather curvaceous bend. Heavy though… a trifle they are.
I thought Dan had an article on this website detailling it- I’m quite sure he does somewhere in the archives.
I’ll check around. I think I remember reading in one of his articles that it’s better just to stay in the aerobars and spin up a hill, if that’s what you’re talking about. That’s boring, though- I thought he initiated you into some secret cult of tri climbing, or something.
If you live in a major metropolitan city - it is nearly impossible to use a bar end shifting system to train on if you use a Tribike.
2 kids + wife + job = training via commuting or training at odd times. I don’t have the time to put the bike in the car, drive an hour away and get to a point where bar end shifters are practical.
I have had absolutely ZERO problems training on a tribike with bull horns using STI. I have always used Profile Design product (Currently the CBX and Alumin X bars) which provides a longer hand platform. My bike shop has drilled holes in the bar to allow internal cable routing and used Nokon cabling to ensure smooth shifting. Works great. Enables me to shift on hills. Keep the wheels true and brake lever distance is fine - just have to place the brakes closer to the rim than the norm.
I find it easier to manipulate a tribike on hilly courses using STI. And I also find it easier to train with STI.
As for the weight thing - dump all of those heavy Cervelo tribikes for lighter alternatives and the weight will be more than absorbed. Doubt that 250 grams will make the difference for me anyway.
<<That’s boring, though- I thought he initiated you into some secret cult of tri climbing, or something. >>
My thoughts excatly. I hope there is a technique. Not just stuff about - stay aero when you climb and spin.
Somebody should tell that to Peter Reid…
can you summarize the technique you are talking about just briefly?
can anyone tell which bar Peter is using?
Carbon X
DuraAce STi
T2 S Bends
.