SRAM vs Shimano (2)

Triathlon Forum
1

I have had Sram (Force, Red and Riva) on my TT bikes and now on my new road bike. I am a pretty decent mechanic and do all of my own work. I have never had a problem getting my stuff to shift crisp and quick.

I recently bought my g/f a road bike and it has Shimano Ultegra. For whatever reason I can not get this stuff dialed in. The rear derailleur will not shift clean and crisp on all of the gears. I can get it to shift great on all of the cogs but then it won’t be enough tension to get onto the 26 tooth cog. By the time I get enough tension in it to shift into the 26, it becomes to much for the rest of the cogs. Sometimes it will shift fine through the cogs and then suddenly get crappy.

Is it just me or has anyone else experienced this with Shimano vs Sram? Is this stuff just garbage or am I doing it all wrong? This stuff just doesn’t seem to be as good as Sram.

2

good chance the derailleur hanger isn’t straight, or the cassette/wheel is wonky.

a shop can check that for you and fix it. sometimes even on brand new bikes the hanger is bent and you get behavior like that.

there is no substantive difference in the shifting working between those groups.

3

No, there is no inherent design flaw with shimano parts that prevents crisp shifting into the largest cog.

Whenever I run into a niggling problem like this that I just can’t lick, I bring the bike to a shop and learn something new.

4

. I can get it to shift great on all of the cogs but then it won’t be enough tension to get onto the 26 tooth cog. By the time I get enough tension in it to shift into the 26, it becomes to much for the rest of the cogs. .

Those symptoms sound like the limit screw is just a bit too tight. You sure don’t want to be shifting over into the spokes but if you’re limit is just the tiniest bit tight only extra tension will force a shift.to the biggest rear cog.

Hugh

5

Is the cable installed properly? Check against Shimano installation guide.

6

. I can get it to shift great on all of the cogs but then it won’t be enough tension to get onto the 26 tooth cog. By the time I get enough tension in it to shift into the 26, it becomes to much for the rest of the cogs. .

Those symptoms sound like the limit screw is just a bit too tight. You sure don’t want to be shifting over into the spokes but if you’re limit is just the tiniest bit tight only extra tension will force a shift.to the biggest rear cog.

Hugh

That.

7

This, as has been said, does not sound like an problem inherent to the equipment. It sounds like a mechanic problem. In my experience, Shimano shifts FAR “cleaner” and “crisper” than SRAM does.

8

Here’s something else to check. Make sure your cable housing loop coming out of the rear derailleur is long enough. If it’s too short, you’ll experience the symptoms you reported. Make sure it’s at least 36cm and doesn’t have too much of a bend. Check out this video. It’s SRAM, but applies equally to Shimano:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dek5QAgEa9I

10

Those symptoms sound like the limit screw is just a bit too tight. You sure don’t want to be shifting over into the spokes but if you’re limit is just the tiniest bit tight only extra tension will force a shift.to the biggest rear cog.

Hugh

^^^^^ This - check your limit screws and make sure the derailleur can physically move all the way from the smallest to the largest cog without going in to the frame/spokes. You really should have a Derailleur Adjustment Gauge/tool to properly check your derailleur hanger - it isn’t that uncommon that they are slightly bent even on a brand new bike. They cost about $60-70 but are well worth it if you do your own work or especially if you ride Mountain Bikes.

Also check the chain and cassette and makes sure they’re in good shape.