My SRAM rival shifters have about 10mm or more of free play in the shift paddles before they engage and shift gears. Is it easy to remove this slack? I would prefer no play at all.
I am new-ish to SRAM so apologies if this is a basic question.
Thanks.
My SRAM rival shifters have about 10mm or more of free play in the shift paddles before they engage and shift gears. Is it easy to remove this slack? I would prefer no play at all.
I am new-ish to SRAM so apologies if this is a basic question.
Thanks.
Front, rear or both?
If it’s the front, are you able to shift into the big ring? If not, your FD cable is probably just too loose. If you are able to shift into the big ring, and you would still like to remove the free play you can still tighten your FD cable, but once you do, double check to make sure that the spring can still pull your chain down onto the little ring once you downshift.
If it’s the rear, are you able to shift into the easiest cog? If not, your RD cable is probably just too loose. If you can shift through the full range of gears, do you have issues with your shifter sometimes missing gears or not fully clicking into the detents?
My SRAM rival shifters have about 10mm or more of free play in the shift paddles before they engage and shift gears. Is it easy to remove this slack? I would prefer no play at all.
I am new-ish to SRAM so apologies if this is a basic question.
Thanks.
Get some inline barrel adjusters installed. That’ll allow you to fine tune adjust.
Everything shifts fine on both sides - the throw is a bit long though.
So it sounds like I can take up the play by tensioning the FD and RD cables better - which presumably I do at the FD and RD itself (i.e there is no means of adjusting slack inside the shifter)?
Thanks.
Well, the lever throw is a different issue from free play. Shift lever movement without derailleur movement indicates that there is slack in the FD cable. If you don’t like how far you have to displace the lever to initiate a shift that’s a function of design (leverage ratios) more so than tuning. The new dura-ace lineup claims a reduction in lever throw and shifting effort. Just be forewarned that you’d need to switch one pair of components at a minimum (i.e FD and Left Shifter, RD and Right shifter).
Well, the lever throw is a different issue from free play. Shift lever movement without derailleur movement indicates that there is slack in the FD cable. If you don’t like how far you have to displace the lever to initiate a shift that’s a function of design (leverage ratios) more so than tuning. The new dura-ace lineup claims a reduction in lever throw and shifting effort. Just be forewarned that you’d need to switch one pair of components at a minimum (i.e FD and Left Shifter, RD and Right shifter).
I get what you are saying. I will play around with it and see what happens - I figured it was easier to ask questions before I screw it up rather than after.
Rival Shifters are not zero-loss shifters, so you can not get rid of the long lever swing before it changes gears. You would need to move to Red or Force 2012 or the newer 22 systems to get zero-loss shifting where barely pressing in the lever shifts a gear.