I am searching for deep section 700c clincher hoops and am finding several sets of S60’s/S80’s. All 3 sets appear to be in outstanding condition 2-3 years old. All want right at the same range: $600 and $700.
Thanks all
I’ve had an S80 front/wheel cover rear for a couple of years now with no problems, except the decals they put on don’t stay very well. They are a tad heavy but very strong. I think they are a really good wheel for the price.
I’ve had an S80 front/wheel cover rear for a couple of years now with no problems, except the decals they put on don’t stay very well. They are a tad heavy but very strong. I think they are a really good wheel for the price.
Ok thanks. Your cover from WheelBuilder? Fits well? That’s exactly what I plan on doing. Training wheels and then swap out rubber on race day and pop on a cover.
I am searching for deep section 700c clincher hoops and am finding several sets of S60’s. All 3 sets appear to be in outstanding condition 2-3 years old. All want right at the same range: $600 and $700.
Thanks all
they are a very good bang for the buck although I really need to work on the engine more.
I am searching for deep section 700c clincher hoops and am finding several sets of S60’s. All 3 sets appear to be in outstanding condition 2-3 years old. All want right at the same range: $600 and $700.
Thanks all
they are a very good bang for the buck although I really need to work on the engine more.
No question my engine can always be better. Just turns out my new build will end up being infinitely less expensive with a dual role wheelset. I only do 10% of my riding on the roads unfortunately, but that also lends itself to having a single set.
Love mine…
I leave them on my tri bike and have had them for two and a bit seasons now with no issues. I had a PT laced into the rear wheel and use a wheelbuilder cover on it (fits great) for racing. My experience has been all unicorns and rainbows with a side of fluffy kittens and puppies.
The stickers however only held up for a season before they started to chip a bit and then I removed them. I think they look better without them and they were very easy to remove.
Sound about right for used pricing?
Do you know any particulars on the S series hubs? Just want to make sure they are not some one off that require special bearings/pawls that cost a fortune. I’m fine swapping out a new cassette body, but bearings and I have yet to get acquainted.
Sound about right for used pricing?
I paid around 1000-1100 for the set new. So 600-700 seems fair to me.
Oh and I know nothing about bearings beyond what their function is. I put the wheels on my bike, they spin around in circles, and they make me go a tiny bit faster. Or at least make me feel faster.
Oh wow I just looked online and I can get 2011’s for under a grand shipped. Hmmm.
I use my s60s as a daily training wheel. They’re solid. Not the lightest, but why training wheel is? I actually feel much more confident on fast descents on them than I do my climbing wheels.
You can hit all kinds of holes and bumps and they’ll keep on trucking. I’ve put about 2k miles on mine in the past 3 months on my road bike and have no complaints at all. Love them.
Do you think there is any dif in durability b/e the 60 and 80?
I would guess not. Same exact construction.
I have the earlier Flashpoint 60’s (now S60’s) since early 2010 and used them as my everyday wheel on my road bike. They are bomb proof and, as other said - a little heavier but they add some stability and confidence when I am bombing down the GMR. The only slight negative comment I have to say about them is they are a PITA to tru. Gladly, I only had to tru them twice since owning them but you need to remove the tire, tube and rim tape and use the special ZIPP tool to get to the spoke nipples. Other than that, I love them.
Oh wow I just looked online and I can get 2011’s for under a grand shipped. Hmmm.
Where?
I have the earlier Flashpoint 60’s (now S60’s) since early 2010 and used them as my everyday wheel on my road bike. They are bomb proof and, as other said - a little heavier but they add some stability and confidence when I am bombing down the GMR. The only slight negative comment I have to say about them is they are a PITA to tru. Gladly, I only had to tru them twice since owning them but you need to remove the tire, tube and rim tape and use the special ZIPP tool to get to the spoke nipples. Other than that, I love them.
Can the S-line be trued outside the rim bed? Truing is my last bastion of wrenching I’ve yet to learn and am going to tackle it soon.
After reviewing the SRAM website, it doesn’t look it you can tru the wheel from the outside so it looks like the design hasn’t changed from when ZIPP originally made the FP-60’s. But that could be an old photo. If they are still internal nipples, the tool should come with new wheels or if not, you can purchase it separately from the ZIPP Store for $10.
I had to Tru them a few of times. Initially after the first 60 days (or so) then about year later and touch ups during tire/tube replacements. Truing wheels isn’t very hard to do unless they are way out of whack. In most cases it only takes a half turn on a few spokes to get them back in line. I have hit numerous potholes, rocks and other road debris that would have made any other wheel go out of whack more often.
Great thanks. Have no idea why I never tackled truing skills…maybe it’s b/c I have been riding Open Pros;)
So the S60-80 hunt is underway!
Does anyone know what the rider weight limit is on a Sram s60 wheelset? I’m currently 210, but think my lowest possible racing weight would be around 185. I could not find an email address for Sram support.
Unicorns. Rainbows.
I used them on my road bike and my tri bike for training and racing (tri only, no road races for me). I switched to a tubular 404/900 disc and they now live on my wife’s speed concept. Solid. Aluminum breaking surface. They look great (and sound fast). They are a little heavy - 1850g if I remember correctly - but that’s ok.
The only thing I would caution against is that they are rated for tires no wider than 23mm.
/kj