Anyone know the differences between the Zipp 101 and the SRAM S30 wheelsets? It sounds like they have the same rim, or very similar. It would appear that the Zipps use Zipp hubs. Any other differences? How do the hubs compare? The SRAMs are considerably less expensive–is it worth it to step up to the Zipps?.
Hubs are the big thing and maybe spokes.
I have friends with both and the S30’s have been in for work twice and the Zipp 101’s once.
Bob
Which S30, they all have different hubs…
I have the S30 sprints and they are good, even for a big boy like myself. Don’t know the difference though…
Anyone know the differences between the Zipp 101 and the SRAM S30 wheelsets? It sounds like they have the same rim, or very similar. It would appear that the Zipps use Zipp hubs. Any other differences? How do the hubs compare? The SRAMs are considerably less expensive–is it worth it to step up to the Zipps?.
The 101s have the full-toroidal shaping to them (including the brake track) while the S30 rims have parallel brake tracks (i.e. somewhat of a “hybrid toroidal” shape, as in Zipp rims of the past). Although they are very similar in shape, I’ve been told that they come from different rim dies.
Few of my teamates have also have SRAM wheel problems (hubs) and I’ve “heard” of plenty of others for some reason. I’d probably shy away for now, despite SRAM being Zipp’s parent now 
I’d stay away from the SRAM S30. I bought the sprints and had to return them after 100 miles because the rear hub would creak loudly under power. Shop tried to fix it but no luck.
The SRAM hubs are similar in design to the Zipp ones but I think quality of materials and tolerances were lost in switching to cheaper foreign manufacturing.
S30 AL Race, one of the best wheels I’ve used. Maybe I got the only set that works well. Very Fast…and Stiff. 500 Bucks on EBAY…
Hubs are the big thing and maybe spokes.
I have friends with both and the S30’s have been in for work twice and the Zipp 101’s once.
Bob
Cripe! I only have to get work on my wheels (that aren’t old) when I hit a pothole in the shadows or something. I’d hope that neither would have needed work.
Which S30, they all have different hubs…
I didn’t know that.
Anyone know the differences between the Zipp 101 and the SRAM S30 wheelsets? It sounds like they have the same rim, or very similar. It would appear that the Zipps use Zipp hubs. Any other differences? How do the hubs compare? The SRAMs are considerably less expensive–is it worth it to step up to the Zipps?.
The 101s have the full-toroidal shaping to them (including the brake track) while the S30 rims have parallel brake tracks (i.e. somewhat of a “hybrid toroidal” shape, as in Zipp rims of the past). Although they are very similar in shape, I’ve been told that they come from different rim dies.
From the info on the different websites that sell them, that wasn’t clear. Although, for my purposes, if they are close that would be good enough. If the hubs are questionable, I’d probably shy away from the SRAMs, at least until that changes.
Few of my teamates have also have SRAM wheel problems (hubs) and I’ve “heard” of plenty of others for some reason. I’d probably shy away for now, despite SRAM being Zipp’s parent now ;-)[/quote
I wonder if that’s why I’ve seen the SPRINT on sale?
I would think that SRAM would do something about that.
i think ZIPP is better
.
If you are on a budget, the AL Race is the wheel. I ride this wheel all the time and it is super fast and stiff. I am a fatty at 5’11-180 and have had no problem at all. I use them for crits and tri’s.
People complain about the bearings and the creaking. The bearings can be adjusted very easily, and the creaking is usually caused by spoke rub. This can also be fixed with a little lubrication. Click Here for bearing adjustments…
I don’t believe you will notice that you are riding a partial toroidal vs full toroidal.
Zipp from what I have heard as stopped production of the 101 for the moment…and The Zipp’s costs 2wice as much.
Hmmmm!
Thanks!
If you are on a budget, the AL Race is the wheel. I ride this wheel all the time and it is super fast and stiff. I am a fatty at 5’11-180 and have had no problem at all. I use them for crits and tri’s.
People complain about the bearings and the creaking. The bearings can be adjusted very easily, and the creaking is usually caused by spoke rub. This can also be fixed with a little lubrication. Click Here for bearing adjustments…
I don’t believe you will notice that you are riding a partial toroidal vs full toroidal.
Zipp from what I have heard as stopped production of the 101 for the moment…and The Zipp’s costs 2wice as much.
For ME, the 188 rear hub on the Zipp wheels tends to have the bearing adjustment come loose. I don’t know why, but on 3 separate sets of wheels I’ve had the opportunity to ride with those hubs, the rear bearing adjustment would come loose and the hub would start creaking. The odd thing is that other people had ridden the same wheels for hundreds, if not thousands, of miles beforehand without any issues and within ~100 miles or so of my riding them, they would come loose…especially if I’d done any “high torque” type of efforts. There’s something about either me, or my bike, or the combination of the 2 that would cause this to happen. I guess I’ve got some sort of “hitch in my git’along” that is the culprit, or something
Luckily, the adjustment process is very easy, and from what I can tell the SRAM hubs are nearly in identical design (the end caps external geometries are obviously different). However, it got to be a real pain in the butt having to adjust it all the time.
Eventually, on the last set I’ve been using (a set of 101s, in fact) I decided to try something…I removed the NDS threaded end cap and applied some blue loctite to the threads on the end of the axle and then reassembled the hub and adjusted it to spec (i.e 1/6 of a turn off of seated). That has seemed to do the trick. I’ve now ridden that hub for nearly 600-700 miles with no problem or loosening of the bearing adjustment whatsoever.
Anyway…that’s just been my experience with that design of hubs used on the Zipps and SRAM wheels…
Hopefully, or very likely (since I’m an old bugger), I don’t generate enough torque to tweak them, but, if so, I have some blue Loctite…
Hopefully, or very likely (since I’m an old bugger), I don’t generate enough torque to tweak them, but, if so, I have some blue Loctite…
Yeah…I’m old and hardly a generator of high torque too
That’s why I said I just must have some odd thing about my pedal stroke, perhaps in combination with my bike, that causes this…
I’ve got a friend who’s actually a fairly light guy (and older than me) who does a lot of climbing. He’s apparently able to make nearly ANY rear wheel go out of true somehow. I think this is something similar
You (and he) need a disc or a trispoke for everyday use.