Hi Twitchers,
Can those with SRAM Force 22 experience describe the correct sequence/setup of spacers/washers/pre-load collar? Directions are confusing and what I am finding on the web is all over the map in terms of fitment.
Thanks!
G
For which frame and which cranks?
SRAM Force 22 - BB30
.
Have you watched this video?
It’s not BB30 specific. Thanks though!
Lyrrad’s question about your specific frame is relevant since it will answer your question about spacers. SRAM’s Force BB30 isn’t a true BB30 and that’s why they include spacers. Typically, the washers/mini spacers (if needed) would go against the bearing seal, then the larger (roughly 11mm spacers) go outside those. The pre-load collar is the last thing that is adjusted. Tighten it enough that you don’t get any play side to side and then back it off (loosen) it half a turn or so, then lock it into place with very light torque.
Sanrafael’s video has nothing to do with BB30, but it seems like you knew that.
Hi Twitchers,
Can those with SRAM Force 22 experience describe the correct sequence/setup of spacers/washers/pre-load collar? Directions are confusing and what I am finding on the web is all over the map in terms of fitment.
Thanks!
G
Page 10 of this SRAM User Manual should provide what you need. As mentioned above, install depends on the width of the BB standard for your frame.
Hi Twitchers,
Can those with SRAM Force 22 experience describe the correct sequence/setup of spacers/washers/pre-load collar? Directions are confusing and what I am finding on the web is all over the map in terms of fitment.
Thanks!
G
Page 10 of this SRAM User Manual should provide what you need. As mentioned above, install depends on the width of the BB standard for your frame.
Thanks! This should come in handy! SRAM didn’t include these particular instructions in the box. The frame is BB30.
HI Twitchers,
Need help with installing SRAM Force 22 crankset. Thought the previous docs provided by others would help, but in the end SRAM directions cause more confusion than a successful install. I have 68mm of width to work with here (BB30). The SRAM Force 22 spindle is longer than the Red 22 spindle. By how much I don’t know and I can’t find any literature via a Google search that definitively clears the muddy water. If anybody knows the correct spacers, plus correct arrangement, please help a cyclist out here.
I can’t get anywhere near spec torque using this arrangement: NDS ARM, 4mm spacer, pre-load adjustor (bottom bracket) 13mm spacer, DS ARM
Visualize this arrangement looking down from seatpost and left to right.
Getting close to spec torque = not being able to turn the crank.
Thanks!
G
P.S. I hope whoever writes these manuals at SRAM aren’t getting much more than minimum wage. They’re crap.
You need to reduce the spacers. if it is locking up the wavel washer must be compressing hard locking up the assembley. Reduce the spacers until the wavel washer engages but doesn’t fully compress.
Generally the spindle length needs to be spaced to take up the difference between 86.5mm 386EVO BB width to the 68mm BB30 BB width. Depending on where it is sourced I’ve seen that DS spacer vary a couple mm.
Be sure to test that preload adjuster to see how it works and verify it is closed fully before installing. As mentioned above, you need to reduce the spacers. You can try assembling w/o the NDS spacers and measure the gap. Then use a combo of spacers and preload to get it to spec. Or use spacers and a wave washer and ditch the preload.
I’ve only installed Quarqs with SRAM arms into both BBRight and PF30 BB’s and have always needed the 11-13mm DS spacer plus the 4mm/preload for PF30 NDS and just wave washer for BBRight BB as listed in SRAM specs.
You need to reduce the spacers. if it is locking up the wavel washer must be compressing hard locking up the assembley. Reduce the spacers until the wavel washer engages but doesn’t fully compress.
I am not using the wave washer. I am using the pre-load collar.
Is it backed off as far as it can go?
Is it backed off as far as it can go?
Yes, it’s threaded back to where it should be (pre-tightening of crank). I am using the SRAM all metal bearing dust covers. Could these possibly be the source robbing me of needed wiggle-room (installation width)? All my other builds I’ve used the metal-rubber type bearing dust shield.
Cheers,
G
I’ve been using BB30 for years and have multiple brand dust caps and have found some, particularly the plastic ones thicker than others. Are they flat or do they seem to bulge out on the exterior side? Maybe worth sourcing a different type that are flat if that is the case.
I’ve been using BB30 for years and have multiple brand dust caps and have found some, particularly the plastic ones thicker than others. Are they flat or do they seem to bulge out on the exterior side? Maybe worth sourcing a different type that are flat if that is the case.
They’re completely flat. Being metal and not compressible I wonder if this is part of the problem? Thoughts?
You don’t want your caps compressible that’s what the screw adjustment in your crank is for. All I can guess is you have an incorrect size spacer of some kind.The mountain bike spacer (black plastic) is wider but by a fair amount as mtb cranks are wider if for some reason you ended up with or using it in place of a road spacer??? Without seeing I can’t help you I’m afraid.
You don’t want your caps compressible that’s what the screw adjustment in your crank is for. All I can guess is you have an incorrect size spacer of some kind.The mountain bike spacer (black plastic) is wider but by a fair amount as mtb cranks are wider if for some reason you ended up with or using it in place of a road spacer??? Without seeing I can’t help you I’m afraid…
I assume it’s the 13mm spacer. It looks to be 13mm. But then again, I haven’t whipped out my calipers to measure it. I am done messing with it for the time being (have a ski trip to pack for). I appreciate all of your thoughts on the matter. If some epiphany comes up, please share!
Cheers,
G
P.S. The frustrating thing here is that I am trying to match-up a crank to its native BB design. One would think this would be a no-brainer!