I have 2x sram force axs.
If I remove front derailure and swap front chainring to a gobaruk 1x chainring is there anything else I need to change or add?
Should be fine unless you are swapping cassette for gear range or if the chainring you pick is significantly larger than the one you are running now. If so, perhaps a new chain might be required.
Normally you’d need a chain 1 link longer for a 1x setup, if you keep the cassette and front big ring size. But a single link won’t make a difference, you’re 99.9% fine.
You might need to reset the gearing, through blip box or app. You’ll see if the RD shifts into biggest sprocket on the back, or is unwilling to do to avoid cross-chain.
I have 2x sram force axs. If I remove front derailure and swap front chainring to a gobaruk 1x chainring is there anything else I need to change or add?
is there a reason you don’t want to use a SRAM X Sync chain ring?
Good question, I’m looking to go to a 52 or 54 front ring.
Sram does not make them larger than 50 correct? Fully recognize I am not completely informed so I may have missed it
I have a 58T from Alugear which works fine with AXS (paired with a Shimano Cassette and YBN chain). Also wishing SRAM made something larger than 50T. 58T works fine but I am thinking it would be just fine as a 54T too.
Garbaruk makes a 54t ring for axs
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Good question, I’m looking to go to a 52 or 54 front ring.
Sram does not make them larger than 50 correct? Fully recognize I am not completely informed so I may have missed it
are you intending to run an AXS cassette? like an XPLR or a force? 12sp? because a 10x50 is a massive gear. something like 135" gear inches depending on the rear wheel/tire you use. put another way it’s the same as a 55x11 and if you can ride that gear successfully in a timed race we all know your name. of course many people here will say no, that they ride 56x11 or 58x11, which is why i added the word successfully. that gear at 95rpm propels you at 36mph.
I hear you, I’ve been running 2x with my big ring as 50 and I have been pretty consistently frustrated by how quickly I feel spun out over 35 ish.
As a larger rider it only takes a mild downhill grade at a decent intensity for me to hit that.
Did a rolling sprint race a couple weeks ago and on the downhill chunks there was no way for me to keep high power on the pedals
I basically never use the 58T x 11 but that isn’t the point. The point is marginal gains on the chain efficiency. Bigger front chainring = a little bit less friction loss. And it also means you spend more time near the middle of the cassette == straighter chain line. I think we are talking 1-2W here, but that’s the argument, not the max speed.
Yeah, not looking to shell out that kind of money for an extra power meter.
$100 for a chainring and my existing power meter is fine.
Dumb they don’t make this option without power.
I basically never use the 58T x 11 but that isn’t the point. The point is marginal gains on the chain efficiency. Bigger front chainring = a little bit less friction loss. And it also means you spend more time near the middle of the cassette == straighter chain line. I think we are talking 1-2W here, but that’s the argument, not the max speed.
right. i hear that argument. to which i reply these are gears you will spend almost zero time in. you’re focused on marginal gains of an almost unseen circumstance. you’re going to spend almost all the time in other gears. the 50x13t at 95rpm pushes you along at 29mph. you’re talking about 1w (maybe) difference in a gear you’ll be in 1 percent of the time. when you’re fixated on inoculating yourself from something that will cost you a tenth of a second over the course of your entire event you’re more prone to make equipment choices that have a much larger negative impact. in my experience with SRAM it’s usually counterproductive to deviate from SRAM’s own product recommendations.
Why do you think almost every pro triathlete sponsored by SRAM( even some of the women) are running chain rings bigger than 52T? Most of them are running chain rings that you can’t get publicly. So the rest of us are left to have source through 3rd party and non oem solutions.
The marginal gains is more about the improved efficiency across all gears (from smallest cog to biggest). Yes you won’t use a 54/10 very often for AG’ers unless you have some decent descending. But if you can manage a 54+ and it doesn’t cause you to do a bunch of unnecessary fd shifts, I don’t see the harm.
Why do you think almost every pro triathlete sponsored by SRAM( even some of the women) are running chain rings bigger than 52T? Most of them are running chain rings that you can’t get publicly. So the rest of us are left to have source through 3rd party and non oem solutions.
The marginal gains is more about the improved efficiency across all gears (from smallest cog to biggest). Yes you won’t use a 54/10 very often for AG’ers unless you have some decent descending. But if you can manage a 54+ and it doesn’t cause you to do a bunch of unnecessary fd shifts, I don’t see the harm.
i seem to remember SRAM telling me it makes bigger rings than those it advertises for sale. i can check on that for anyone who feels they need those rings. just, they make a 56/43 crankset. who needs that? i would argue nobody. not even pros. when you watch the tour this year - and even more so the vuelta later on - look at how often these pros are riding gears too large because they don’t have a small enough gear on the back. the availability of small gears has - in my opinion - created a revolutionary change in bike cockpits and set up among the pros. these guys are riding their bikes wholly differently now than they did a generation or 2 ago and again, just my opinion, the prime difference is gearing and i mean the existence of low gearing.
i have pretty much never seen an athlete get him or herself into difficulty through the lack of a large enough gear. i routinely see them in difficulty because of the lack of a small enough gear. as to what the pros do, fine. maybe a pro wants a 54t on a 1x and if jan or lionel has this and it’s from SRAM it must be available. if you’re riding 4:10 for your IM split then, yes, you might also need one. if you’re riding 4:40 for your IM split then you just want one. and i think that’s fine too. but in my opinion what that does to the rest of the gears may cost you way more than it gets you.
I would love to get my hands on a 54T 1x axs ring with power. They sell a 52T but it’s really hard to find and most of the time it’s sold out.
I think it depends on your perspective whether it’s a need vs a want. It could be a little bit of both.
I’m not a fan of the friction losses across all gears that comes with 50T especially when you are also running a SRAM flat top chain which isn’t as efficient as shimano and others. My thought process has been, how do I limit the friction losses that comes with my SRAM AXS vs a Shimano equivalent setup that my competitors are running? The only thing I have found without mixing non SRAM components (chain ring, chain, cassette, etc), is to go to a bigger ring (54T). Also, I live in flatland Florida so not a lot of climbing around here to hurt me with that choice. Though I did do IMWC in St. George on a 54 (2x) and didn’t feel like it hindered me and it did help with the downhills.
I would love to get my hands on a 54T 1x axs ring with power.
I put a 54TGarbaruk on a SRAM Force 165mm crankarm set with a P2Max
Yeah. My comment was more about an oem SRAM solution.
I would love to get my hands on a 54T 1x axs ring with power. They sell a 52T but it’s really hard to find and most of the time it’s sold out.
I think it depends on your perspective whether it’s a need vs a want. It could be a little bit of both.
I’m not a fan of the friction losses across all gears that comes with 50T especially when you are also running a SRAM flat top chain which isn’t as efficient as shimano and others. My thought process has been, how do I limit the friction losses that comes with my SRAM AXS vs a Shimano equivalent setup that my competitors are running? The only thing I have found without mixing non SRAM components (chain ring, chain, cassette, etc), is to go to a bigger ring (54T). Also, I live in flatland Florida so not a lot of climbing around here to hurt me with that choice. Though I did do IMWC in St. George on a 54 (2x) and didn’t feel like it hindered me and it did help with the downhills.
i just don’t know about the friction losses, that is, whether they actually occur. apparently RED has more friction than force. but if you run both chains 200 miles then what? if it was me i’d run any new chain - but especially SRAM - 200 miles, then strip and wax it, then race it. sometimes the marginal gains rumors are just that.
Assuming all else equal, a larger chain ring is going to be more efficient. Friction facts did a nice test and plotted the delta several years ago.
Like you said, force is reportedly more efficient than red. But that same data source shows a dura ace chain more efficient than both sram options. I believe there is also data that shows the efficiency after a few hundred miles and DA still wins. And that was with wax or decent lube (non factory).
So if you run a sram setup as they recommend (50T, flattop chain, etc), you are giving up time to a dura ace standard offering (53T, DA chain, etc). Does that matter to everyone? No but it does for some of us. And for those of us that like to tinker and optimize our setups, it’s a little bit of fun.