I installed a new 1x AXS Red setup - 48 Chain Ring and 10/28 cassette.
Lots of gear noise and in the 10 cog there is a good amount of vibration which even puts a standing wave in the chain.
Everything is adjusted per SRAM installation and lubricated.
Does it just need to brake in a bit?
The rear derailleur clutch does put a lot of chain tension into system - good for chain drops I guess.
There is a lot of anatomy on the chain ring’ teeth I guess for reduced risk of chain drops. But source of noise and vibration?
SRAM says chain sizing is Big Ring Big Ring plus 2 links (as in 2 inside and outside links) for 1x - I bet 3/4 would be ok too as the clutch puts tension on the chain slack?
There is also noticeable binding when in the 28 gear. But the chain line is not too offensive.
I this just a perfect characterization and tradeoffs for this 1x setup - ie “the way it is”?
Welcome any suggestions on getting rid of the noise and vibrations. Perhaps less chain tension would help.
I incorrectly installed the chain the first time I set up my bike with AXS, by putting the chain over rather than under one of the guards on the rear derailleur pulleys. On that derailleur it’s hard to see, and I just missed it. It still worked, but it was very loud, and caused that wave in the chain. I would just double-check the path of the chain.
This is what I received from SRAM’s technical support when my 11 speed Sram Red Tap did not want shift up from the 11 to the 12. I used it to tune my X01 AXS 12 speed shifter and rear derailleur on my fat bike. It now shifts excellent and totally silent in every took. Took about 15 minutes of my time.
The first thing I’d do is to confirm the proper “B-gap.” This adjustment is critical to the optimal function of our derailleurs. For an 11-speed eTap derailleur, you’re looking for 6-8mm of space between the tips of the pulley wheel teeth and the tips of the cassette teeth when in the lowest gear. See attached picture for a visual.
If that distance is proper and you’re still having trouble getting the chain to jump from the 11 to the 12, you should check the hanger alignment.
If it’s still not shifting correctly, you may be able to micro-adjust the derailleur inboard enough that it makes the jump, but not so much that it causes shifting issues in other gears. To do this, press and hold the pairing button on the backside of the left shift paddle while clicking that paddle in (as if you were activating a shift into an easier gear). This action will position the derailleur inboard a fraction of a millimeter. Continue to do this one click at a time until it shifts correctly. Do this on the right side if you’ve gone too far and caused shifting issues elsewhere on the cassette.
I hope this helps. Let me know how it goes!
SRAM Rider Support
I’ve found on some it takes a bit to “break in” to be a little quieter. They also have “stealth rings” that may help. They are basically rubberbands that go between the gears.
Make sure your derailleur hanger is straight. Adj. the B Gap according to SRAM along with chain sizing.
As others have said make sure your Qincklink is on correctly and facing the right way.
Micro adjust also according to the SRAM Tech Videos.
Good luck ! It’s a great system.
This probably isn’t it, but my 1 x SRAM AXS wasn’t tracking properly yesterday. Gears would change reluctantly. It wasn’t until I got home I realised straight through axle wasn’t tight.
It seems to be make less noise after about 50 miles. So I will give it some more time and adjust it some more. I think the chain guidance is too tight and will go get another chain this week to try 2 more links.
B Screw is set with the dial to 10mm so that is good.
I still think the 10 cog is a bad design choice. I am not sure the resonance would dissipate even with break-in given the intensity. Perhaps Shimano 12 speed keeping the 11 cog was a good move.