Speedplay (Wahoo) cleats & Lake CX238

Hi, loving the Lake CX238 shoes in wide, so comfy no numb toes like I had with Bont Zero’s which were horrendous, moulded them 3x and…nothing.

So I also like the Speedplays, but because the last on the Lake’s is so curved, when I put the cleats on they’re very curved and whilst cycling I am on the maximum of the heel out float and this still isn’t enough. Thinking of cutting the base plate to allow me to rotate the cleat more. Or does anyone have a better solution??

I think all Lakes and Shimano TR9 are curved.

I don’t know about the Wahoo Speedplays, but the old ones came with wedges to handle curved soles.

Yes, their should be a set of shims in case you need them. We sell both and have had no issues.

I believe the OP is talking about something different, IE: the curve of the last or “banana shape”. The wedges are to conform to toe spring or sole curvature.

Do you have enough stance width? IME, when people can’t get their heels out wide enough with Speedplay cleats it’s an indication that they need longer spindles or pedal extenders…

Hi yeah I mean they have a banana shaped last, as in they taper a lot.

I’ll put another washer on. They don’t stock a longer spindle yet since they changed to Wahoo, they said it’s because longer spindles can only be accessed through a bike fitter.

I like where the front of my foot is, but just want my heels out a little bit. I’m thinking of cutting the baseplate, I’ll a friend who works with making operative tools, etc, maybe they have the tools to do it because you need the sunken bit of the baseplate to secure it, which I can’t do at home.

The shoe is great though, so comfy, no numb toes. Coz I want a heel out position, I keep unclipping 😳.

Not sure if this is the ideal solution for you, but those shoes are relatively easy to re-drill the sole/cleat holes and move the triangle thread plate thing to reposition the cleats.

I’ve done this on a few pairs with this sole (237, 241; 402 as well which is a bit different and even easier).

I did this to move the cleats rearward, so was easy to drill a good amount away from the original holes. For you, to drill to get a different rotational position, it might not be so easy to avoid the original holes - will obviously depend on where you need them to end up.

You could also try filing/dremelling the original holes (or ‘slots’ in this case) - eg the two rear slots, to allow rotation of the thread plate to a different position (I have done this too - but again in a rearward, not sideways direction).

Ok sounds a plan actually. They’re a great shoe and so I’d b gutted to have to sell them.