I’m trying to make the choice between the stainless steel and ti speedplay zeroes. From what i can gather, the difference seems to come down to 21g per pedal. Can someone put this into perspective for me? That’s, like, the difference between wearing a superlightweight sock and no sock, right? Or having crud on my shoes, versus no crud?
I want the ti. And then I don’t want them. And then I think 21 grams is air. And then think it’s rotating weight that will make the difference between pure glory and crushing defeat. Then I think it’s Good vs Evil. Then i think i’m overthinking it so it’s time to put it to ST.
Just think of the radius of the pedal compared to the radius of a wheel, a wheel would be what double that? So that means a 21g per pedal would be equivalent to a 10g per wheel difference (assuming the difference is at the rim and not hub). Are you willing to pay 200+ for a 870g wheel instead of an 880g wheel?
21 grams is the weight of an obscenely priced…err i mean a nice carbon cage by ZIPP. i mean why would you want to spend $7 on a cage when you can spend $60 and save 15 grams?
I have been riding the stainless steel X2’s for years due to the fact that I snapped a pair of the Ti pedals and have switched out the butterflies to aluminum which dropped the weight down by 11g per pedal so they are almost as light as the Ti pedals but have a stonger spindle. You can drop a few more grams by going with Ti bolts which would mean that you should be somewhere around 25f-26g total reduced weight, still be less expensive than buying the ti versions and have a stronger pedal.
I understand your conflict and have been there myself. Started with X/1 back in the day and then moved to X/2, and even have a third set of X/3’s now. I have never noticed any difference. Other than the fact that the X/1’s are ridiculously over priced any ways…
IMHO----the X/2’s are where it’s at–and I would opt for the X/3’s over the X/1’s if I had to do it all over again.
Just think of the radius of the pedal compared to the radius of a wheel, a wheel would be what double that? So that means a 21g per pedal would be equivalent to a 10g per wheel difference (assuming the difference is at the rim and not hub). Are you willing to pay 200+ for a 870g wheel instead of an 880g wheel?
The math gets even worse when you figure that rotational inertia increases with the square of radius, and that wheels typically spin around 3X the rpm of cranks. The “rotating mass” factor for pedal is incredibly inconsequential.
A good rule of thumb is the $1/gram rule. Be willing to pay a dollar more for a product that is a gram less. Some bike parts where you can easily save more than a gram/dollar are:
Quick releases
Seatposts
Aluminum bolts for bottle cages
Carbon fiber bottle cages (no, not the Zipp, lots of good ones for $30)
Stems
Cable housings (nokons or similar)
Aerobars (Hed cliplites are 1/2 the weight of most others).
Might as well give the other perspective. Will you notice the 21 grams, nope not at all. But its roughly 10% of the weight of the pedals (I think). If every time you do an upgrade you get similar savings that 2 pounds or so off the entire bike. Over a hilly course 2 pounds in big race could reasonably account for a rew places. Only you know your finances and goals.
and ultimately you should treat rotating weight the same as any other weight unless you are a sprinter =)
Just think of the radius of the pedal compared to the radius of a wheel, a wheel would be what double that? So that means a 21g per pedal would be equivalent to a 10g per wheel difference (assuming the difference is at the rim and not hub). Are you willing to pay 200+ for a 870g wheel instead of an 880g wheel?
The math gets even worse when you figure that rotational inertia increases with the square of radius, and that wheels typically spin around 3X the rpm of cranks. The “rotating mass” factor for pedal is incredibly inconsequential.
A good rule of thumb is the $1/gram rule. Be willing to pay a dollar more for a product that is a gram less. Some bike parts where you can easily save more than a gram/dollar are:
Quick releases
Seatposts
Aluminum bolts for bottle cages
Carbon fiber bottle cages (no, not the Zipp, lots of good ones for $30)
Stems
Cable housings (nokons or similar)
Aerobars (Hed cliplites are 1/2 the weight of most others).
I don’t think anyone can really notice a mere 21 gram difference. But I have no problem with spending a little extra for a lighter part. To me, it’s not the individual savings on each part, but rather the weight saved as a whole, reflected in the overall bike weight. If you save 21 grams per pedal, then another bit on brakes, and some more on wheels and tires, and so on, then it starts to add up (or subtract down, rather). While each part is in and of itself an almost imperceptible difference, all the lightweight parts add up to make a big difference. The only question is if you are willing to spend the extra money.
Titanium spindle pedals are a bad idea unless you are very light…go with the stainless. The stainless will be stiffer and stronger. 21 grams saved is not worth a broken pedal spindle and the resulting carnage. There is a reason shimano doesn’t use ti pedal spindles - even on their DA pedals. The scariest new product I’ve seen in awhile is the speedplay nanogram pedal - “for racing only” - that means delicate and more prone to failure under “normal use”. Don’t go ti for this application!
The way to consider any TRI purchase is money vs. mental vs. actual. Bottom line is cost - always. What you can afford. Mental is the edge it gives you. Doesn’t matter whether it’s real or perceived - if you feel it, it’s real. Lastly is actual. And from posts you can see that all the manufacturer stuff is marketing. 21 grams is almost nothing. If you really want to shave weight, get a better wheel set. Good luck, have fun and spend what you can to give yourself the mental edge.
If you really want to shave weight, get a better wheel set. Good luck, have fun and spend what you can to give yourself the mental edge.
Agreed. There are plenty of places where you can save more weight for less $$$. Now if you already have cut out the extra weight everywhere else then by all means go for it.
The math gets even worse when you figure that rotational inertia increases with the square of radius, and that wheels typically spin around 3X the rpm of cranks. The “rotating mass” factor for pedal is incredibly inconsequential.
Not only is it incredibly inconsequential, I find it incredibly ludicrous that Speedplay uses this argument in support of their pedal’s light weight. Factor in the weight of the (relatively heavy) cleat–which, I might add, is also rotating–and you’re right back to the weight of most other pedal/cleat systems on the market.
As far as the Ti Zero goes, I believe it has a slightly shorter axle (giving a reduced Q-factor), which may or may not be an issue for you.
A lot of friendly tips from people who hope to pass you when you come riding on your heavy stainless pedals…
I’d rather he go with the Ti in that case.
He’ll be much easier to pass when he’s in the ditch with a broken spindle waiting for EMS.
