I’ve been doing long distance triathlon for many years now and i decided to treat myself with a Canyon Speedmax CFR. They just announced the new models and i was thinking getting the Red eTap version (my 2 actuals bikes are on sram) until i notice that this build has only one chainrings (so no front derailleur). I usually do hilly courses (next one is Mont-Tremblant) so running on only 1 chainrings is out of question. (I’m an average cyclist, 194 lbs / 280w FTP).
I took a look at the Shimano build and it look like they improved a lot to compete with SRAM. The R9250 is now on 12 speed + wireless shifting.
The other major difference is the wheels. I was excited to finally ride the Zipp 858 but the shimano build have the DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut. Are they as good as the Zipps ?
So the question is, should i go with the Di2 or keep the original plan and buy the sram version and upgrade the crank for a 2 chainrings ? (Sounds like complicated and way more expensive).
I have the CFR Di2 version. I like the DT Swiss wheels very much. I had the Zipps on my last Canyon, but it is weird comparing rim brake (Zipp) to the disc brake (DT Swiss). So the comparison isn’t fair.
The Di2 is set up with “synchro†shift which gives me 14 usable gears. I really like it.
A friend is going 1x on SRAM (not Canyon) and has a huge dinner plate cog on back and climbs well on it.
Either way, you’ll love the CRF.
AXS costs more and is 1x. You’d then spend more to upgrade to 2x. The Zipp wheels retail for a higher price, but I’d bet they’re slower than those SwissSide wheels. The sawtooth design is not fast.
Di2 has historically been more reliable. Ignoring the incoming anecdotes, axross forums there are far more reports of AXS front derailleur issues than all Di2 issues combined. Some claim its user error (because theirs is working) but some highly skilled mechanics also have issues. Who knows why, but Di2 just seems like a safer bet.
AXS system is considerably heavier.
AXS flattop chain has more friction drag than DuraAce. Smaller cassette and chainrings of AXS also introduce more chain friction.
For any specific gearing range, with AXS you trade small FD jump for bigger RD jumps. Ask yourself which is more important to you. On my last ride I had 800 RD shifts and 10 FD shifts. If you’re trying to hold a constant rpm for efficiency, there is a benefit to smaller RD jumps.
The upside to AXS is a clutch if you run 1x (which sounds like you wont), and saving a few minutes on installation (which you won’t need to do with Canyon)
I have both, a di2 time trial bike that I run 2x in training and a 2x gravel/cyclocross setup with AXS.
I feel like it’s a terrain thing. The AXS gearing I love for gravel riding, I can make it up any hill I want and still can put power downhill within reason. The only front shifting AXS issue I’ve had was yesterday deciding to try to big ring it in a downhill tight s into a super steep uphill needing a FD shift right as I went over a really choppy section and chain came off. Pretty sure no matter the system it would have come off. I do not do 1x as I just like the range of 2x.
The gearing on the Shimano stuff just suits faster TT/tri riding better IMO with the cassette/chainring offerings. You want that tight gearing right in the “meat” of your tri/tt speed.
I bet SRAM has external battery patents or something, as my lasting annoyance with Shimano is the need to take covers off and plug in to charge whereas SRAM you pop the battery into the little carrier. With SRAM also if you want can keep around a spare battery charged and ready and never worry about the “ride of shame” where your stuff dies mid-ride. Shimano it’s just “you forgot, too bad so sad”.
But yeah, IMO for a “climbing bike” or a multisurface bike I’d say AXS for that gearing. Otherwise, Shimano.
I have eTap and Di2 on my road and tri bikes. I freakin’ LOVE eTap on my road bike. I prefer Di2 for the TT bike for several reasons.
Easier to get a cleaner, more hidden installation with Di2 vs. eTap on a TT bikeIntegrated brake levers with shift buttons10-took cog that I will never useLove Di2 Synchro shift with single-button extension shifters Edit: And I have always considered stock wheels as throwaway items on all TT bikes. I race on ~90mm/disc set, but few bikes come with a combination I would use (few even come with a deep front).
I have eTap and Di2 on my road and tri bikes. I freakin’ LOVE eTap on my road bike. I prefer Di2 for the TT bike for several reasons.
Easier to get a cleaner, more hidden installation with Di2 vs. eTap on a TT bikeIntegrated brake levers with shift buttons10-took cog that I will never useLove Di2 Synchro shift with single-button extension shifters Edit: And I have always considered stock wheels as throwaway items on all TT bikes. I race on ~90mm/disc set, but few bikes come with a combination I would use (few even come with a deep front).
I have eTap on my TT bike, it’s okay. I had (as in ‘past tense’) it on my road bike. Meh. I freakin’ love cables. Disclosure: never used Di2, might love that more, but doubt it.
The charging ing on the 12 speed Di2 is on the rear derailleur and is super easy to check for charge by a button or via Shimano app. I agree the old hidden connector for charging was a pain, especially on the Speedmax
I have the Speedmax cfr with axs. Admittedly mine is the 2x. I actually would have preferred the 1x setup for the courses I do.
I have about 2000 miles on it so far and it’s been flawless. The axs is smooth and I have had zero issues with it.
The 858s seem to be a nice all round race wheel for the racing I do. I just rode them tubeless in the Virginia double iron and had no issues with them. No leaking and they felt plenty fast accelerating back up to speed with all the u turns on that course. I can’t speak to the Dt swiss wheels but the 858s are really nice wheels.
hello.
I haven’t received my bike yet, but the CFR Shimano version is equipped with the DuraAce 9250 with wireless buttons. For the autonomy to be greater, I wanted to connect the 4 buttons with cables. do you know if it is complicated to do alone? where is the connection box? If I can’t do that, do you know if there is a level indicator for the 4 button cell batteries that is easily visible? Thanks for your help.
I’ve been doing long distance triathlon for many years now and i decided to treat myself with a Canyon Speedmax CFR. They just announced the new models and i was thinking getting the Red eTap version (my 2 actuals bikes are on sram) until i notice that this build has only one chainrings (so no front derailleur). I usually do hilly courses (next one is Mont-Tremblant) so running on only 1 chainrings is out of question. (I’m an average cyclist, 194 lbs / 280w FTP).
I took a look at the Shimano build and it look like they improved a lot to compete with SRAM. The R9250 is now on 12 speed + wireless shifting.
The other major difference is the wheels. I was excited to finally ride the Zipp 858 but the shimano build have the DT Swiss ARC 1100 Dicut. Are they as good as the Zipps ?
So the question is, should i go with the Di2 or keep the original plan and buy the sram version and upgrade the crank for a 2 chainrings ? (Sounds like complicated and way more expensive).
if you get the SRAM and want to swap drivetrain parts, I have a 2x crank & the casette that I would swap with you. PM me.
i have the Zipps which are outstanding. My bike only has 5 weeks of riding on it which is probably less than 500 miles, bought a few weeks before kona…
Thought I’d dredge an older thread rather than post a new one… what components can you actually ‘upgrade’ after the initial purchase of the bike? I was just on the Canyon site customer chat, and the agent couldn’t actually answer the question and has had to send my query onto a “Speedmax” specialist… I wouldn’t have thought it difficult given on the Speedmax the site it states: “You’ll also get the chance to upgrade key components for an additional cost.”
No you can’t change any components (wheel, saddle, groupset, etc) except for the addition of a cereamic speed BB. As for the CFR you can customize the size of your cockpit (S,M or L) and the basebar (Rise or Flat) but i’m not sure if it’s the case with the other models.
