Hi,
Using improper tools, I managed to destroy my lower bearing of my integrated headset when trying to knock it out of my frame.
Just the inner ring and the balls came out, so now I have the outer ring still sitting inside the steerer tube and there is not much of a lip sticking out where I could engage a removal tool.
There are some grooves (where the balls sit in) and smaller lips (where the seals sit in) present, where I could hook into with something.
Anybody ever had a similar problem? Any help appreciated.
+++update: solution+++
Thanks for the tips guys. I managed to get it out by going in from the bottom side with a flat screwdriver and carefully pulling it out using the bottom edge of the steerer tube (with some padding) as a fix point for my lever. This worked up to the point where the race was at the very bottom of the steerer tube, but at that point the gap above was big enough to then carefully knock it out with a hammer and the same screwdriver from the top.
Screwdriver from the top, …
I think applying force to only one point of the bearing rather than distributed over all 360° (as with a proper removal tool) was my initial mistake…
Screwdriver from the top, …
I think applying force to only one point of the bearing rather than distributed over all 360° (as with a proper removal tool) was my initial mistake…
That’s why you’ll want to lightly tap around and around the perimeter of the race so that it moves just a tiny bit at any one point. I favor a brass drift with ~ a 1 cm tip for this sort of operation over a screw driver.
Just about every application is different when tapping out bearings.
You don’t want to pull/push from one point all of the time but tap one edge, then the opposite trying to keep the bearing as even in the housing as you can.
Realistically the race will be cocked slightly one way, then the other way until it comes out. By slightly I mean about 1/4 of a millimeter.
I did this exact thing to my Cervelo R3 a couple of months ago. After I finished freaking out, I got out my Dremel w/ abrasive cutting wheel, safety glasses, and a headlamp. I took my time and very slowly cut about 90% through the outer race, taking extreme care not to contact the headtube. With this deep notch cut, I was able to get a flathead screwdriver in there, give it a good twist, and snap the race, and it came right out.
Scary as it is, I would recommend the cutting approach in your situation vs. trying to hammer it more. I ended up doing a little bit of damage trying to hammer - the Cervelo headtubes at the time had a soft aluminum seat for the headset bearings to sit in that got gouged up really easily. If you are not comfortable then do take it to a shop - one slip can easily wreck your bike forever.
And… lots more grease when you put the new one in. For me, the bearings should have just dropped in (and out) with no tools, but got stuck there due to corrosion. That was all it took for me to get the thing lodged in there sideways when I went to knock it out.
You could try some penetrating fluid in there, like PlusGas? You’ll need to get the frame in an awkward position but it’ll certainly do some good if you’re dealing with corrosion. If it’s a carbon frame then check it’s safe and not going to damage the resin.
Thanks for the tips guys. I managed to get it out by going in from the bottom side with a flat screwdriver and carefully pulling it out using the bottom edge of the steerer tube (with some padding) as a fix point for my lever. This worked up to the point where the race was at the very bottom of the steerer tube, but at that point the gap above was big enough to then carefully knock it out with a hammer and the same screwdriver from the top (what **jaretj **suggested). I also did put on some WD40 beforehand as per aw3’s suggestion so that might have helped as well.
Collective ST-wisdom for the win!
Also I’d like to thank my LBS for refusing to even touch the bike after a short description of my problem. I strongly suspect the fact that it is a direct-order Canyon to be relevant here. So for all you US-folks counting down the days until you can finally get your Canyons stateside: Don’t expect much love from the local shops…
I’m glad to hear you got it out. On a different note smart LBS’ will take on the work no matter the brand. My local shop just took on a very nasty eBay special and the ending bill ended up being about what the owner payed for the whole bike on eBay. Drop in headset had to be ground out due to corrosion, handlebars had to be replaced due to corrosion eating away at the fasteners…etc etc. It was hard work, but a nice pay day for the shop, and the customer was happy because he had a like new bike now.