[solved] FIX MY @$%#% CREAK

It’s the crank. I know this because I can swap in another crank, and the creak is gone. And I’ve gone back and forth about a dozen times now. It’s not the cleat because I get the creak with just running shoes using the pedals as little platforms. Creak happens in both rings.

It’s a SRAM Force 2x crank with a Power2Max spider and Speedplay pedals.

I’ve removed all the chainring bolts, cleaned and re-greased them, and re-tightened them. I removed the 3 spider bolts, cleaned them, Loctited them, and re-torqued them with the P2M-spec torque.

I’ve removed the non-drive-side threaded insert that retains the captive spindle bolt, cleaned, re-greased, re-torqued.

Remove, re-greased and re-torqued the pedals, and the pedals are nearly new and spin freely.

Cleaned and re-greased the spindle and spindle bolt. Torqued properly.

I don’t know what else to try. Could the crank itself have some small internal delamination or something? Or maybe the chainring rivets (if that’s the right term) are creaking?

Sell it.

What bike and BB? Force used to mean GXP, but it can now be BB30 or DUB. Maybe a difference at the spindle contact points with BB bearings (prolly not an issue with DUB inserts). Or a preload issue depending on wave washer vs. spindle preload spacer nut.

Yeah, sorry: GXP in a BBInfinite insert. No wave washers or pre-load nuts. And I tried leaving out all the BBInfinite seals/covers. No difference. Tried different torques on the spindle bolt - no difference. The “good” crank doesn’t care about any of that. It just doesn’t creak at all.

You’re right it could be something with the spindle contact. Though the two cranks I’m using are effectively identical at the spindle - both SRAM Force.

I’m nearly to the point of swapping the spider to the other crank. I can’t swap rings because the 2nd crank is 110bcd vs 130 (gravel bike).

If that doesn’t work it’s new crank-and-rings, I guess. I can’t take another ride of creaking.

Assuming that both cranks are the same length, have you tried switching the left arms? I haven’t come across this with actual SRAM cranks, but quite a few times I’ve seen on cheaper OEM GPX cranks where the tolerances of the left arm don’t perfectly match the spindle, and if you back off the crank bolt just slightly there is play in the left arm. The only thing that makes the crank seem “tight” is that the arm is tightened against the bearing and spindle step, but its actually loose on the splines. If the crank has been installed and removed several times, I could see a possibility of some play developing…

Assuming that both cranks are the same length, have you tried switching the left arms? I haven’t come across this with actual SRAM cranks, but quite a few times I’ve seen on cheaper OEM GPX cranks where the tolerances of the left arm don’t perfectly match the spindle, and if you back off the crank bolt just slightly there is play in the left arm. The only thing that makes the crank seem “tight” is that the arm is tightened against the bearing and spindle step, but its actually loose on the splines. If the crank has been installed and removed several times, I could see a possibility of some play developing…

Yes try this. I have an ultegra 11 sp and that interface left crank to spindle is (probably?) out of tolerance. If I take the left crank off, clean it, lube it, tighten it, it’s fixed for a ride or three but creaking always comes back.

Assuming that both cranks are the same length, have you tried switching the left arms?

Good thought, will try that. I accidentally put the arm from the creaky crank on the “good” crank, and there was no creak. But I don’t think I’ve tried the other way around.

Edit: No, creaks even without any left arm at all, just hand-turning with my hand.

Are you sure it’s not the BB?

I just fixed a BB creak that I thought was the crank for years. Ended up taking out the BB adapter that I had installed (Praxis), cleaning it and the BB shell real good, then re-installing with plenty of anti-seize and grease. I’ve now been creak free for a month and my bike no longer sounds like a bowl of rice crispies when I’m pedaling out of the saddle.

Just a thought.

I don’t know what else to try. Could the crank itself have some small internal delamination or something? Or maybe the chainring rivets (if that’s the right term) are creaking?

Call Hambini.

Thanks for all the suggestions, except Hambini-related.

Creak fixed. I swapped the rings-and-P2M over to the other crank arms. No creaking. So something “wore out” on the old crank arms somehow, I guess.