I went snowshoeing for the first time last Saturday using some borrowed shoes. I’m used to AT skiing so I found the experience to be somewhat boring – getting up the mountain was about comparable but the downhill was less than exciting. But, my cycle club likes to snowshoe during the winter so I guess I better comply.
My question is, what would you recommend if I wanted to buy some cheap but decent quality shoeshoes? What are the difference in snowshoes? Is it better to buy them used?
There are three main choices in snowshoes. Tubbs Tubbs and ummm Tubbs. There are some really good deals on last years models ona various sites right now too. If you are looking for running snowshoes, there are more options available. But Tubbs are pretty much bullet proof.
As an fellow AT skier, you should know snow shoes are for fur trappers:) Maybe you should snow shoe up with your buddys and carry your skis. after they see you make some nice powder turns, you’ll get some converts.
I’m sure you can get some used ones. THere are lots available from people who found out how boring it is. There’s basically plastic platform vs. aluminum frame. I’ve used both and they seem comparable. Look on some spec sheets to find what size you need depending on how much you weigh and how light the snow is. If you go on packed trails get the smallest you can fit.
What is the difference between the running snowshoes and regular snowshoes? What is the nearest thing I’ll find to an all purpose, do it all, any condition, snowshoe?
As an fellow AT skier, you should know snow shoes are for fur trappers:) Maybe you should snow shoe up with your buddys and carry your skis. after they see you make some nice powder turns, you’ll get some converts.
I’m sure you can get some used ones. THere are lots available from people who found out how boring it is. There’s basically plastic platform vs. aluminum frame. I’ve used both and they seem comparable. Look on some spec sheets to find what size you need depending on how much you weigh and how light the snow is. If you go on packed trails get the smallest you can fit.
Believe me, I thought the same thing you’re thinking. I have no problem carrying my skis; it is the boots that would be a pain. The day I went shoeing there really wasn’t enough snow to actually ski. And these guys were walking over jagged rocks and stuff. How do they keep from puncturing the vinyl stuff?
I would really urge you to throw Atlas into that mix and if you are going to go looking everywhere, Dion is another name to watch (but wicked expensive). I have Tubbs racing snowshoes and like the tail design, it helps make it pretty close to running. But for actual hiking, I would never trade my Atlas in on a pair of Tubbs. I like the bindings better and love the “spring-action return” tha has completely elimnated getting bashed in the shin by the toe of the shoe.
Go to an “outdoor store” find a pair that you like the bindings on, then turn to eBay and/or Sierra Trading Post and pay half of whatever REI/EMS/whoever are charging. Know what you are going to use them for (racing/running is waaaaaay different than trekking in powder) and go “heavy” on your own personal weight estimate (add a solid 25-30 pounds to your bodyweight for sizing - unless, again, you are going to be running/racing)
Another vote for Atlas here - I have a pair I got a couple of years ago (830’s I believe) and I really enjoy them. I have never run in them but for hiking I’ve found that they are very solidly constructed and provide sufficient traction in just about any terrain.
Have fun,
Shane
What is the difference between the running snowshoes and regular snowshoes? What is the nearest thing I’ll find to an all purpose, do it all, any condition, snowshoe?
Running style snowshoes have a more “cutout” shape on the inner tail areas. The cutout is to lessen the tendency of the snowshoes to step on or catch each others tail sections as leading & trailing feet exchange place while running/walking.
Traditional shoe shape has a larger tail so they tend to hit each other especialy as you pick up the pace, causing headers etc.
Running style shoes are more expensive despite lesser materials used in their construction. An all purpose shoe? IMO there’s not one if you’re intent is to run on them. Running styles are that much more effective than traditional shaped shoes for the purpose of running. However if you try to use running shoes in deep snow their not going to work as an effective snow shoe due to there small surface area. (Runners are really only effective on packed or shallow (or at least not deep snow).
However I’d echo other comments on buying shoes rated below your weight. You only need the full rating if you’ve got deep snow (say 18 inches or more). I weigh 195 & use 2 different shoes (redfeathers) rated 170 & 150 (+/-) effectively in New York State which is typicallly either packed snow or less than 1 foot of snow. If you’re in UTah you may want to go bigger.
I don’t own running snow shoes but have used them, they’re alot of fun. But if I’m going to run I just run on roads sometimes with studded running shoes (just screw some small hex head bolts in your shoes). I generally use my snowshoes if I’m in the Adirondack park hiking as you’re required to have them for hikes in the winter there.
What about Cresent Moons? The shape looks less awkward compared to the ones I borrowed. Next to eBay, who has the best deals? Does anyone offer used snowshoes?
I’ve got a pair of Tubbs running snow shoes…they are assymetrical…in deep snow I run with hiking poles to keep moving/balance…I love them…I ran last Sunday in the snow without them…DUMB…50 mins for 3 miles…I was gassed.
I should have added this earlier…if this is just going to be a “sometimes” thing and you’re not like, totally into it, and you’re looking for less expensive kind of shoes, go to Sierra Trading Post (www.sierratradingpost.com) I just briefly checked for you and they have a whole pile of shoes for under $150 and quite a few under $100. You’ll be reasonably “safe” with anything they sell.
I should have added this earlier…if this is just going to be a “sometimes” thing and you’re not like, totally into it, and you’re looking for less expensive kind of shoes, go to Sierra Trading Post (www.sierratradingpost.com) I just briefly checked for you and they have a whole pile of shoes for under $150 and quite a few under $100. You’ll be reasonably “safe” with anything they sell.
Thanks Don. And I definately can’t picture myself getting totally into it.
I’m a big fan of MSR snowshoes. They are just about bombproof. You can get add on tails
to adjust them to your weight or snow depth/conditions. I think they traverse side
hills better than just about any other shoe because of the long steel rails under the shoe
and downturned edges. They can be a bit noisy but you get used to it. The bindings are
stone simple, durable and very adjustable. I wouldn’t try to run in them, but they are great
for all around use. Check out the Denali Classic or Ascent
The major snowshoe makers are Atlas, Tubbs, Redfeather and Crescent Moon. (There are probably others out there, too, that I’m not remembering.) They all make various levels of shoes, from running to trekking. The main characteristics of running ssnowshoes are that they are small and light. Trekking shoes are big; racing shoes are small. They all, however, are pretty bombproof; they have to be to hold up to the beating they take. I wouldn’t worry about the nylon fabric tearing, as someone mentioned. The stuff they are using now is essentially the same fabric they make whitewater rafts out of, and those things rarely, if ever rip. I’ve broken a snowshoe frame before, but never had the nylon cloth rip. I don’t personally like the plastic snowshoes, but I can’t say I’ve tried them, either.
Each company has different designs for their shoes, with different claims for their designs. There once was a movement in the “snowshoe community” to set a minimum size for a racing snowshoe, but it seems to have died. My racing Redfeathers are approximately 2 feet long and about 8 inches wide. Atlas makes a substantially smaller shoe for racing.
The right shoe for you depends on a lot of factors, such as running v. walking, and where you live (i.e., powder v. heavier snow conditions), etc. For general use, I would stick with a shoe in the 2’ long range. You can always walk in them, and you can run, too.
I hope this helps.
Seth
Another vote for Atlas - I got a pair of the running ones last year, and love 'em. They’re light enough to run in, very springy, and still easy enough in deep snow.
I actually took them out for the first run of the season today. Let’s jsut say the fitness isn’t what it was inthe summer.
My choice is atlas dual track running snow shoes…I got them direct mounted to racing flats…sweet snowshoes and just use a goretex sock when not racing with them. Not the cheapest though
thanks for your info! can you explain binding and actual shoe choices that are used with these? it seems some are used with regular running shoes and others something heavier, like light hiking shoes? are the bindings all stable or are there ones that grip your shoe less well? do all bindings have a metal hinge vs. tied to the frame with line or fabirc, like the older days?
Had a foot of fresh snow, so I SN’ed yesterday - beautiful. I have Tubbs and they are great, I’m sure all are very similar, just like the difference between Giro an Bell. Sierra Trading Post may be a good option as mentioned above.
A running snowshoes is going to be very different than a hiking/trekking shoe. The running shoe is designed for, well, running: lower profile, easier movement, but if you do some serious hiking with it you won’t go very far, as the lower profile means less float on the snow. While you can run in deep snow with running shonwshoes, you’re going to sink. running snowshoes are really designed for semi-groomed trails, XC trails, etc. I’ve used mine the past 2 winters on Toronto hiking paths in our big parks, and they work great.
For cheaper running 'shoes, hit eBay. Look for some Tubb’s 10k’s (the prior generation to the Catalyst). I picked up a pair 2 years ago, and they’re great.
While you can use running tights, I find the snow that gets flicked up from my heels tends to stick to my thighs/ass. Snow melts, turns the area wet, and is uncomfortable. Looks for a semi-water resistant pant. Oh, and small gaiters will help keep the snow out of your shoes. And a good waterproof trail-running shoe won’t hurt, either.
Hi,
One thing to consider:
(Although I may be bias as I raced for TUBBS)
TUBBS has a lifetime replacement warranty. You break them, they will fix or replace them. Not that you will need them, but this is a factor to consider.
In the 16 years that I have hiked, run, walked etc in Tubbs snowshoes (most of the time in their running ones) I have only broken a couple pop-rivets, and this includes doing stuff like hopping down 20 ft ledges (you really need a soft snow landing at the bottom though), walking across parking lots, going over very thin ‘snow’, rocky outcroppings, ice falls (short, not quite vertical ones), climbing trees (when lost off trail), etc. To address the durability of the plastic that is used, you can take it in sub zero degree weather and smack them together as hard as you like (to knock off accumulated ice), they will not break, shatter, whatever (and I have done this). I have taken my running snowshoes in everything from 1/2 inch of snow over rocks, to 3ft of fresh powder on top of a deep base (that is a workout). When running uphill, it is a heck of a workout. You develop your system to handle upwards of an hour hovering around 200bpm for a real nice burn. There are three separate studies that show that snowshoe running actually increases VO2max for running more than running iteself!
Another poster mentioned about the spring return on the Atlas. This feature is present in the TUBBS running snowshoes (although not as a ‘spring’) and is a bit annoying if you are just hiking as it flicks snow up your backside and then you get snowballs building up on your butt and back (all the way up to your head if you are going fast). A free rotating toe chord allows the snow to fall off the back of the snowshoe to prevent this. The only time that I had a problem with the freely rotating toe chord was when I was training in a down hill single track section and jumped down a short 8 ft ledge and the snowshoe flipped up on the landing, digging into my shin. It was not too pleasant, but I have not heard of another person that has come across this problem.
Anyway, if anyone wants to know more, I can elaborate. I also have several new sets of running snowshoe (the catalyst model) that I am going to put up on ebay, but if anyone is interested, I can sell them for $200 shipped.
Stephen J