It seems like my shifter cables are always trying to “flip out” away from the top tube (creating drag) when I turn my bars. I’d like to find a clean way to keep them in tight, but still be able to turn the bars. Is there a trick besides a simply ziptie above the top tube?
Show me!
It seems like my shifter cables are always trying to “flip out” away from the top tube (creating drag) when I turn my bars. I’d like to find a clean way to keep them in tight, but still be able to turn the bars. Is there a trick besides a simply ziptie above the top tube?
Show me!
Try this one.
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/images/users/images/0/6020-large_LarsenBikeKona2008.JPG
It’s tough to see exactly what’s going on there. I see a ziptie around the headtube. Is there also one above the top tube?
It’s tough to see exactly what’s going on there. I see a ziptie around the headtube. Is there also one above the top tube?
In another photo I saw I think the cables were ziptied behind the stem.
You could use a rubber band to “tie” the cable housings behind or along-side your stem. This will hold the cables snug to your stem but still allow you to turn.
-Scott
One trick I found with my P2K was to route the shifter cables over the top of the basebar and then alongside the stem and down to the cable stops. When you get the length right, they pretty much stay close to the frame all the time.
I’d like to keep the cables running through & out the back of the extensions.
I’d like to keep the cables running through & out the back of the extensions.
Well then, I can’t help you there… 
I’d like to keep the cables running through & out the back of the extensions.
My P3 is like this. I’ll try to take some pics tonight and post.
It’s worth noting that having the cables go straight down from the stem to the downtube may look aero, but may not actually be aero (I don’t know for sure, so I’d love the Cervelo guys on the forum to weigh in on this since I’m sure they tunnel tested it).
The reason is that the vertical cable looks like a cylinder to the wind, while one running diagonally from the shifters looks like an elongated elipse. They have the same frontal surface area, but the ellipse is much lower drag. Not sure how this advantage compares with having the cables tight in against the headtube…but even then the less vertical you can get them, the better.
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OK. Now how about showing me HOW you did it?
What breaks are those on the Easton Attacks? Lovely!
Nice job! The brake with the Easton Attack bar is a Zero Gravity but a question for BMANX is whether that is the same brake with the refined/cleaner setup?
cheers.
Very nice, but you’ve got some work to do still
Cables? What cables?
Mickstar, that’s how they end up looking from the front when you follow my advice above. Then again, I guess it’s more important that the cables come out of the ends of the extensions though :-/
Tom these were old examples of what is possible and yes not as good as your example. However, with my new Planet X Stealth build, I will be taking your example to the next level by using the T726R on the front instead of the modified 925 and on the back I will be using the 925 and trying to modify something to have the cables suck in as close to the frame as possible.
I am also going to use the I-Link mini housings as they can be formed tighter and better than regular housings.
Just need the frame which was shipped this week.