I usually just head indoors this time of year onto a treadmill for runs but have been trying to stick it out in the snow and the ice of Northeastern Wisconsin. I have been utilizing standard road shoes (which seem fine with warm socks on dry roads) but I typically have been finding a mix of dry concrete, snowy patches (slush and packed) along with some icy patches.
What type (or brand and make) have people had success with in such conditions? Some shoes have lugs (i.e. Saucony Peregrine 10) while others seem to be more of a trail shoe (NewBalance Fresh Foam Hierro 5) but I am wondering if the different bottoms accomplish the same things. I am ruling out spikes as I can’t imagine these are compatible with the concrete.
No insight, but I was quite literally logging on here to ask the exact same question. Interested to see what is out there as I will be doing all of my running outside this winter. Our gym is open, but just not feeling comfortable going back to it yet.
When its icy conditions I’m generally on either the cross bike or the fat bike. I just bought a set of Fizik Atrica 5 shoes so if I wanted to head out on the road bike I think I would pull one of me sets of SPD’s and use the Fiziks to keep the toes warm. Tend to stick to the rollers in the winter on either of my road bikes. Do like to play in the snow but that is strictly fat bike territory.
Sounds like you need to work the bike equation: N+1.
There are a few options for studded running shoes. Icebug has been doing it for a while and are proven. Solomon has an offering as well, I just don’t like their “Cross” series shoes for running…
I’ve preferred the “screw your shoes” method. I get to keep the same feel under my foot since it’s my regular shoes-and it’s cheap. Find a pair that are at the end of their life and grab a box of 6 (or 8)x3/8" sheet metal screws from your local hardware store. I’ve got my pattern down for where I put them on my shoes-I put the least amount that I need to not end up on my arse, but this shows the general idea. Be careful with Nike shoes and air “bags.” I’ve popped my share over the years.
Screw shoes work great. Take an pair of running shoes and screw in a bunch of short screws (google it) so the flat heads are hitting the pavement. Gives remarkably excellent traction on all but black ice, and even there it’s pretty decent.
You can also buy small microspike covers for your shoe bottoms that also work pretty well.
The flat screw shoes run totally fine on concrete, and just make a clackety noise but otherwise no difference in running (no slipping).
The small microspikes I’ve used also were fine on concrete, but I suspect they’d wear out faster as they were more pointed at the tips than the flat screws.
I don’t get snow here in Norcal so no more screw shoe running, but I did it for years in snowy upstate NY. It was often comical to see folks see me blowing by on really dangerously icy sidewalks, and I’d call out “watch out icy!” but they’d assume it was fine since I was running like low 7min/mile on it, and then they’d suddenly go flailing as they took a single step on the same icy surface.
I commend you for getting after it in the snow and ice. I think trail shoes might help a bit in the snow and slush, but aside from metal screws/spikes, nothing much helps on ice. I basically run in the same shoes year round now. I try to slow it down on slippery surfaces, keep my center of mass over my feet and do my best to adjust my schedule so I can run in the daylight.
I like winter running. I think it’s the perfect opportunity to throw out the structured training and just enjoy building a solid base with easy running. I think very few people would not benefit by just doing easy miles and stop looking at their watches for 8-10 weeks a year.
Yaktrax come to mind. I’ve never really used them, maybe some other people can chime in with their experience, but it’s probably worth a shot. I’ve tended to go with all-weather type shoes, like Pegasus shield, but I might give these a try this winter.
I have a pair of Solomon Speedspikes (looks to be an older, discontinued model but I only run in them a handful of times a year so they’re still in almost-new condition). I also tend to use them on the nearby gravel/bridle path so the spikes aren’t hitting something as hard as concrete & given the requirement to shovel w/in 24 hours of storm stopping they usually aren’t needed that much on the sidewalks. The real problem is the next day or two when it’s almost all clear but there has been some melting & then refreezing in the evening. Hitting that one, unexpected slick spot can be dangerous, which is why I’m usually on the unplowed but packed down trail where they work great even though the entire trail can be icy.
Yaktrax come to mind. I’ve never really used them, maybe some other people can chime in with their experience
I have a pair of YakTrax from before I got the Speedspikes. The advantage of them over the Speedspikes is that they stretch over your shoes so you can put them on/take them off as your run requires & they’re easy & light enough to carry. Just be aware they make different models. They do make a “Run” model with spikes under the forefoot instead of the ‘rolled wire’ under the entire bottom like the “Walk” model has. I’d recommend the “Run” model
Third? Forth? Whatever. DIY screw shoes work very well. I have an old pair of gore-tex Asics that have served as my icy conditions screw shoes for about a decade.
I bought a pair of Saucony Peregrine Ice+ winter running shoes. I was hoping they would be the equivalent of a winter tire on a car traction wise. They have some lugs so they are better in the snow, but best I can tell, they aren’t any better on ice than a typical running shoe.
I’ve been running on snow and ice for 40 years. In my opinion, screw shoes trump the dedicated shoe covers like YakTrax and the like.
You can obviously buy regular sheet metal screws but given how short a lifespan they have I find something like IceSpikes more worth it to me, even though they probably cost quite a bit more per mile.
You will want to have a dedicated set of “winter” shoes for the screw shoes though
And those slip-on toe-covers you can buy for running shoes are totally worth it
I also recommend 3/8†hex head screws in a pair of my old (still usable) running shoes.
I do however screw in 15 around the perimeter of each shoe.
I have used this strategy for many years, and as a matter of fact used them today on 27 degrees icy, snowy, gravel roads. No slips no falls.
P.S. — I just on the other side of the lake in N. Michigan. 44’56â€
I bought a pair of Saucony Peregrine Ice+ winter running shoes. I was hoping they would be the equivalent of a winter tire on a car traction wise. They have some lugs so they are better in the snow, but best I can tell, they aren’t any better on ice than a typical running shoe.
Search “broomball shoes,†that’s your studless tire comparative for shoes. It’s all in the materials!
They may not be very common in the USA but orienteering shoes often feature small metal tips on the lugs. The idea is to grip on wet wood when clambering over rough terrain in the forest. Inov-8 are a popular choice in the UK, https://www.inov-8.com/oroc-ultra-290-mens
I use mine on icy paths and roads in winter here in Scotland. They are very small tips and are OK for short periods on concrete even if no ice, but they will wear down quicker with prolonged use.
I bought a pair of Saucony Peregrine Ice+ winter running shoes. I was hoping they would be the equivalent of a winter tire on a car traction wise. They have some lugs so they are better in the snow, but best I can tell, they aren’t any better on ice than a typical running shoe.
Search “broomball shoes,†that’s your studless tire comparative for shoes. It’s all in the materials!
Thanks. I really wish someone would make a running shoe with that sole?
I put MTB studs from grip studs on my wife’s boots. I see they make them for running too, they don’t look any different than the bike studs. super grippy and I can get a couple years out of them on a fat bike. They are much more expensive than screws, but I have done both screws and these actual studs on the bike. Actual studs work better and wear WAY longer. With a 100 pack you could probably do shoes and enough on a bike to make a difference. There is a learning curve screwing them into either shoes or tires. https://www.gripstuds.com/running.php
I live in Wisconsin, and I’ve used Yaktrax to good effect. They’re not perfect, but they’re “good enough” and mean I don’t have to bother figuring out how to add screws/spikes to my other running shoes.
Not sure the shoes matter too much if you are going to be on snow, ice and dry pavement. I just try and make sure my foot is landing directly beneath me and I’m not pushing off too hard when I’m on a slick surface.