My new Speed Concept is equipped with Di2 Synchro Shift. I was initially skeptical about how well it would work but am becoming a fan. But…when at some point I need to pull off the rear wheel, how will I shift to both the small chainring and smallest cog? SS is programmed to shift to the big chainring if I shift down that far on the cluster. My previous SC rear wheel could only be removed with the chain in the 36/12 position.
Thanks much for any insight,
John
I always shift into the big chainring and smallest cog to remove the rear wheel. That’s the easy way.
You should be able to switch to smallest cog while on the big chainring, and then switch to small chainring. The synchro would be bypassed in this case because it happens when shifting to the 7 or 8 cog while in the small ring (can’t remember exact combo).
Other option would be to temporarily switch back to regular shifting from the junction box.
Both of these require that you have the necessary shift buttons. If all you have is a total of two buttons (up/down) dedicated for synrcho shift with no other shifting option, then I guess you’re SOL. Personally I’d never want that setup, since I find synchro shifting far too slow/klunky for downshifts (although it’s useful for shifting back to the big chainring).
I had the same question when I switched to the new dura ace di2 and it was incredibly hard to get the rear wheel off with the chain in the big chainring. What makes it worse is that I have the one button system so I don’t control the FD at all. I have found that shifting to the small chainring and the middle of the cassette is the easiest and best way to remove the rear wheel.
I had the same question when I switched to the new dura ace di2 and it was incredibly hard to get the rear wheel off with the chain in the big chainring. What makes it worse is that I have the one button system so I don’t control the FD at all. I have found that shifting to the small chainring and the middle of the cassette is the easiest and best way to remove the rear wheel.
I have the one button system. Just confirmed with my LBS that your method is best for now. There could be updates coming that’ll make it easier.
I always shift into the big chainring and smallest cog to remove the rear wheel. That’s the easy way.
Same for me assuming it’s vertical dropouts. It keeps the chain from going too slack while the wheel is off. However, if it’s a horizontal dropout, I rather put it in the small ring because you need to pull the chain back behind the cassette to get the rear wheel back on, and that extra slack makes it easier.
YMMV
The S3 mode is excellent.
Despite not needing to chain gears for the chainring (meaning - despite the fact it does it automatically) the front shifters are not redundant, you can use the front shifter as normal at any time.
In the case of a flat for example, move the RD to the smallest cog - 11 or 12 I assume - and then shift the front derailleur after.
You can also adjust which gears in the rear cassette trips the the FD shift as well. Although that requires digging into the software rather than using the junction box button.
The solution, really workaround, is simple in practice. Say you have 3 modes configured as follows: Manual, S1 (Semi Synchro), and S2 (Synchro) with buttons only controlling the rear derailleur. To get into 36/11 from S2 mode, you’d shift down on the cassette (chain moves to bigger cogs towards the bike) until you get a down shift on the front derailleur (chain moves to inner chain ring). At this point double-click Junction A to change into Manual or double-click twice for S1, doesn’t really matter which. Then shift up the cassette (chain moves to smaller cogs away from the bike) until you get to the desired slack chain gear. Double-click the requisite number of times to get back into S2 (it’s a circular queue).
As I said above, although I can do this fast, this should be fixed in firmware as the procedure requires the cyclist understanding how the system functions and how the specific bike is setup. The simplest fix I can think of is holding up/down shift buttons simultaneously for 0.5 seconds (but maybe this is too close to eTap and so…). Another more complex way to fix would be to make the button assignments optionally different for each mode and not a global setting.
Enjoy.