Ok, here’s the deal:
upgraded to Di2 R-9150 and everything was fine and dandy - love the system, smooth as butter - everything worked as it was supposed to and shifts were lightning fast and on point. A few months after I installed a spider based power meter myself. I put everything back together and torqued everything to spec.
Once I started riding it again on the trainer, i noticed that when going from the small chain ring onto the big one, the chain wasn’t moving over immediately as it was before, it was taking quite a bit of time to engage the ring (sometimes not even doing it at all and requiring one or two more shifts to do so).
Am I correct to assume that this is fixed by adjusting the front derailleurs position of the cage? do i need to move it out a couple of mms to help it get the chain back on?
I tried doing this once but kinda effed it all up because i started tinkering with the screws first instead of going the E-Tube way first, so my Front DR was all out of whack. I took it in to the LBS and they re-adjusted everything (or so i thought) and now its doing it again.
I’m one to learn how to do things myself, so would love to learn proper methodology to adjust the DR’s.
thanks in advanced!
What is the chain slider?
What is the chain slider?
Sorry - its called the “DERAILLEUR CAGE”
this part:
.
My first thought was that the crankset or chainrings weren’t installed properly.
What brand and model?
Same ones I had on before. They are Rotor 3DF
Its possible your new spider maybe has the rings placed just a tiny bit further out from the bottom bracket.
It shouldn’t be that difficult to adjust, I’ve always found the shimano manuals pretty easy to follow. But if you can’t get it working, should be a pretty cheap visit to the lbs.
Its possible your new spider maybe has the rings placed just a tiny bit further out from the bottom bracket.
It shouldn’t be that difficult to adjust, I’ve always found the shimano manuals pretty easy to follow. But if you can’t get it working, should be a pretty cheap visit to the lbs.
This, I installed my Di2 on the original cranks and it was working fine, when I installed the power meter a few days later didn’t shift as good. The PM pushed the rings out just enough to be outside the range of the electronic trim.
I would just go trough the Di2 adjusting procedure again and see if that takes care of it.
http://si.shimano.com/...DM-UL0001-03-ENG.pdf
page 69
awesome, thank you! will give it a shot tonight.
Also, check that the little brace screw is still pushing up on the frame. If that screw backs out, the FD cannot work too well. Also, you may have a little metal sticker that distributes the force on the frame. If that fell off, find another.
… Also, you may have a little metal sticker that distributes the force on the frame. If that fell off, find another.
Can you clarify on the “metal sticker” part? where is it supposed to be? never heard/seen one/it
See figure 5 here: https://www.parktool.com/...on#article-section-2
Figure 6 shows the brace screw in the right spot.
You learn something new everyday! thank you 
There’s a perfect text book for Shimano users: “Dealers Manual!”
http://si.shimano.com/#/en/search/Series?name=DURA-ACE%20DI2&generation=R9150&type=ROAD
visit here and read it!
these manuals are super accurate and include so many details.
furthermore, they are easy too read.
- sometimes… when di2 battery is low front DR gets weaker and shows the phenomenon that you reported (difficulties in shifting). Check your battery.
There’s a perfect text book for Shimano users: “Dealers Manual!”
http://si.shimano.com/#/en/search/Series?name=DURA-ACE%20DI2&generation=R9150&type=ROAD
visit here and read it!
these manuals are super accurate and include so many details.
furthermore, they are easy too read.
- someties… when di2 battery is low front DR gets weaker and shows the phenomenon that you reported (difficulties in shifting). Check your battery.
Thank you - I should have clarified: I have read through all of the manuals I could find from Shimano, but they are not exactly known for making their literature user friendly (anyone that uses their E-Tube software knows what I’m talking about!! LOL)
The battery detail is interesting. didnt think about it. Will check on that and see if it solves anything.
Another detail that I’ve noticed is that the issue seems to happen more when I’m riding it, but when i have the bike on the bench and moving the cranks with y hands, shifts seem to go fine. Is there a rider weight/pressure element associated with shifting?
The chain is usually under more tension while riding, so shifting can be different.
That being said, basic FD adjustments.
Is it at the right height? Bottom of the cage 2mm (IIRC) above the chain in the big ring?
Is it parallel to the chainrings? This could be the issue, especially if it’s only under load while riding.
The only Di2 specific is the tiny support screw that keeps the FD from twisting while shifting under load. Make sure the frame protector is in place, and adjust the screw to keep the FD parallel while shifting.
Adjust the low limit screw to where the cage is as close as possible to the chain without rubbing.
Adjust the high limit screw to make sure it isn’t stopping the FD from moving far enough to shift.
Another detail that I’ve noticed is that the issue seems to happen more when I’m riding it, but when i have the bike on the bench and moving the cranks with y hands, shifts seem to go fine. Is there a rider weight/pressure element associated with shifting?
One consideration on this that I didn’t see mentioned above is what kind of BB system you have on this bike. If it is a BB30 variant with a lash adjustment it may be possible that it isn’t snugged up enough and is allowing the crank spindle to move side to side in the BB.
Sorry to bring this up so long after but same problem, 53-39 11-30 ultegra di2 and the chain doesn’t want to go onto the big ring, and is managing to get itself James between chainring and seatstay upon occasion it doesn’t make it up after a couple of pedal revolutions and comes off. Neither myself or bike shop can understand what’s going on or why/how, they’ve done loads of ultegra di2 Tri bikes and never had this before, and I’ve never experienced anything like it on my mechanical ultegra road bike, or any other bike I’ve owned.
Getting near the point of what else can we do to try to make the damn thing work in real life when it’s perfect on the stand!
Sorry to bring this up so long after but same problem, 53-39 11-30 ultegra di2 and the chain doesn’t want to go onto the big ring, and is managing to get itself James between chainring and seatstay upon occasion it doesn’t make it up after a couple of pedal revolutions and comes off. Neither myself or bike shop can understand what’s going on or why/how, they’ve done loads of ultegra di2 Tri bikes and never had this before, and I’ve never experienced anything like it on my mechanical ultegra road bike, or any other bike I’ve owned.
Getting near the point of what else can we do to try to make the damn thing work in real life when it’s perfect on the stand!
Big ring might be worn out. How old is it?
Near brand new. Brand new bike. Near 3 months of trying to sort the issue in various ways. Bikes done 512km with circa 300-350km of that on turbo. Also works perfectly on the bike stand.