I’m tired of reaching out to my bar ends and shifting. Might as well go Di2… But, I don’t know what I need. I see cables and battery packs and stuff sold separately. Can you tell me what’s required to purchase for a Di2 setup. I realize you need the shifters, the brake levers with shift buttons, the derailleurs, but what else? I assume any 11 speed crank will work. I want to keep my SRAM Force crank with Quarq on it.
Thanks.
I want to keep my SRAM Force crank with Quarq on it.
Then maybe consider SRAM E-Tap. To answer your question, shifters, front & rear derailleur, brake levers w/integrated shifters, front & rear derailleurs, 5-port junction A, 4-port junciton B, internal battery, Di2 wires in correct lengths and quantities which depending on how you set things up, typically is 1 wire x per shifter, 1 x per derailleur, 1 for battery, and 1 wire to link junction A to junction B)
Read this to get familiar with what you need…
http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/
Your crank and PM will not make any difference in going di2 or not. But SRAM e-tap may be more suited for you if your frame is not compatible with internal wire routing.
Read this to get familiar with what you need…
http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/
Your crank and PM will not make any difference in going di2 or not. But SRAM e-tap may be more suited for you if your frame is not compatible with internal wire routing.
I have a 2014 P2
E Tap is wireless, correct? Although, I think it’s more $ than Ultegra Di2
Yeah at least double the price give or take. I went with Di2 due to cost. Frame was di2 ready.
Yes it’s twice as much. your frame will be no problem to go di2. There’s a Di2 plate you will need that will replace your cable guide under the BB.
Yes it’s twice as much. your frame will be no problem to go di2. There’s a Di2 plate you will need that will replace your cable guide under the BB.
Gotcha.
I ordered the shifters, derailleurs, the 5 port A junction box, and the B junction box.
Does anyone know what battery to buy? Internal? Where does it go? Lastly- does anyone know what length wire to order?
The internal battery usually is put inside your seatpost.
Use a measuring tape to determine wire lengths. I highly recommend that you go a little longer than you think. The extra wire can be tucked in any place.
Always remember for the Di2: longer cables are better than shorter. You can always tuck extra cable. You’re fucked if you have too short of a cable.
What’s your plan once you have it built? Take it to a shop and have firmware update and run through? I’m getting ready to do a di2 build as well but don’t have the software/setup stuff.
What’s your plan once you have it built? Take it to a shop and have firmware update and run through? I’m getting ready to do a di2 build as well but don’t have the software/setup stuff.
Good call. I’ll need to check for updates! I’ll ask the shop.
Shimano prices are crazy and lots of local shops can’t compete with the U.K. Shops like pro bike kit. Although, performance bike has competitive pricing, so I went that route for ordering parts. I’ll go to the local bike shop for the update issue though. They actually told me to go online last time I asked the, about ordering me some parts. Crazy what’s up with Shimano pricing.
I would NOT recommend Shimano Di2. I would consider SRAM etap instead. I have Di2 (10 speed) and the rear derailleur stopped working 22 miles in at IM Boulder 2 weeks ago. I actually rode 2 miles off the course to LBS and aide station told me about. They had a diagnostic tool that plugged directly into the Di2 and bypassed the battery and the wiring. Rear derailleur would not work and they said it was shot. They forced it into a middle gear and used duct tape to hold it there. Did the last 90 miles with a fixed gear (actually 2 gears since front derailleur still worked).
Got back home and took it to LBS and they checked with Shimano and 10 speed di2 rear derailleurs are no longer available. The only options Shimano could give is chuck the whole thing and replace with an 11 speed system or find a used 10 speed rear derailleur on ebay. WTF? I’ve only had this for 4 years, and I can’t get replacement parts?
Scouring ebay now, but I guarantee you my next setup will not be Shimano di2.
I would NOT recommend Shimano Di2. I would consider SRAM etap instead. I have Di2 (10 speed) and the rear derailleur stopped working 22 miles in at IM Boulder 2 weeks ago. I actually rode 2 miles off the course to LBS and aide station told me about. They had a diagnostic tool that plugged directly into the Di2 and bypassed the battery and the wiring. Rear derailleur would not work and they said it was shot. They forced it into a middle gear and used duct tape to hold it there. Did the last 90 miles with a fixed gear (actually 2 gears since front derailleur still worked).
Got back home and took it to LBS and they checked with Shimano and 10 speed di2 rear derailleurs are no longer available. The only options Shimano could give is chuck the whole thing and replace with an 11 speed system or find a used 10 speed rear derailleur on ebay. WTF? I’ve only had this for 4 years, and I can’t get replacement parts?
Scouring ebay now, but I guarantee you my next setup will not be Shimano di2.
Exact same situation - Di2 7970 rear derailleur stopped working at looking at around £500 to replace or risk second hand from eBay.
So tempted to go the SRAM eTap aero route which isn’t that much more expensive than Ultergra Di2 when you add in the cost of adding TT shifters/breaks to the standard groupset.