Road bike stem length

My road bike currently has a 110mm stem that is clearly too long for me. I don’t really have any bend in my arms at all when on the hoods and am quite stretched out. I am not sure whether a 90mm stem would work or if I need to go even shorter? I know for the tri bike there are some measurements you can take to ballpark your reach (using the length of your forearm). Is there anything similar for the road bike?

If you’re really that stretched out, I’d wager that a 90mm stem isn’t short enough. However, going shorter than 90mm may affect your bike’s handling. Are you sure that the bike is the right size for you (top and head-tube wise)? It sounds like the top tube may be too long.

My personal preference for a road bike is to go with a frame size that allows me to use a 120mm or 130mm stem with -6 to -10 degree angle, which for my 5’10" self is a 55-56 cm effective top tube. Then I’ll use head tube spacers as necessary to fine tune stack.

First…what way is your stem flipped?..does it look close to parallel or angled up?

Also, how many degree? should be marked

I have a Large Lightspeed Archon C1 which is the equivalent of a 57.5 I believe. I am 6’ but have an inseam close to 35…so very long legs and short torso (I ride a Blue Triad for my tri bike). I have my road bars set with only one 10 cm spacer underneath so they are quite a bit lower than my seat (which is showing a lot of post). Maybe I should put some of the spacers back.

My stem (FSA Team) is -6 degrees. I have been using it on the trainer for an hour or so at a time but haven’t been do a longer ride to see how I might hold up. I have been trying to decide between a 90mm and an 80mm stem.

I have very long legs also, 5’11", 56cm top tube, I run a 120 step with alot of drop. I could have never pictured doing this before my Wobblenaught fit- I was riding a 100 mm stem- but my seat was way too high.

Once the seat was lowered, the stem went longer, and the bike felt much more comfortable. I don’t get anything from Wobblenaught, besides being happy with the fit for the past year and having my best season ever on it.

Besides that, “feeling stretched out,” trying a shorter stem, etc, is all guesswork. Considering alot of people spend $200 on a stem, it doesn’t make sense to not be properly fit for the same price.

-Physiojoe

You can first flip the stem…Here are a couple of sites, that if you put in your current stem set up, you can compare with other stems to give you an idea on your stack and reach change
http://alex.phred.org/stemchart/Default.aspx
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http://www.brightspoke.com/t/bike-stem-calculator.html
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~6k road Bike Stems on ebay, get both sizes, see which one you like. Total invested ~$40 or so.

In addition to using a shorter stem, have you tried moving your seat forward? If doing both of these changes, you still feel stretched out, then the frame is probably too big for you.
I am 6’-1" and fit best on a 56cm frame with a 120cm stem. I too have a short torso according to my fitter.

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Beside changing your a stem by flipping it or getting a new stem you might also consider:

The reach of various road handlebars can very quite a bit from model to model.

Brake hood placement on any given set of bars effects reach.

Handlebar angle effects reach.

David K

None of this stuff matters to a T comparing one person to the next. It only matters where** you **sit relative to the bb, not another guy your size. You could get 5 guys with the exact same frame and identical limb lengths/inseam and whatnot. Same saddle you name it. One guy might like riding 11cm’s of setback and need a 90mm, but someone like me who only rides 7cm of setback will ride a 130mm stem. In point of fact I’m 6’1", 34 inseam, 56cm Soloist and 11cm of drop with aforementioned setback.

Spend a few bucks on cheap stems with different lengths and pitches…figure what works and go from there. Adjusting your saddle position to fix a reach position is the beginning of big problems and a horrible way to approach bike fit, road or tt. Fit yourself over the bb and on the saddle where comfort and power find a nice balance for you, then bring the reach and drop to what fits you. Destroying your fit over the bb to fix reach is BAD:(

In addition to using a shorter stem, have you tried moving your seat forward? If doing both of these changes, you still feel stretched out, then the frame is probably too big for you.
I am 6’-1" and fit best on a 56cm frame with a 120cm stem. I too have a short torso according to my fitter.

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Seat adjustments are to change your position relative to the pedals.

If your fitter ever told you to move your seat forward to shorten your reach, I’d find a new fitter.

-Physiojoe

Amen!! This is spot on advice! Saddle relative to BB is step 1. Then worry about reach to the bars. These days, you don’t just have the stem variable. There are many different handlebar variables. They have different reach, drop and different bend profiles. As others have said, experiment by getting second-hand stuff on the cheap through ebay or similar. When you get it right, you’ll know it in a few short days. But above all, hold the post by tigerpaws in high regard.

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Thanks everyone for your advice. Using a tape measure my new road bike seems to be pretty close to my tri bike in terms of reach and seat height. I think one of the main differences is that on the tri bike I have a 90mm stem and am hanging off the front of the Cobb saddle. The road bike obviously is more slack, has a longer stem and I am sitting farther back on the seat. I flipped the stem so that there is some rise now and put another spacer under it (both of which were difficult to stomach since it is an aero road bike). I’ll see if that makes any difference and if not I’ll try a 90mm stem.

I was only implying that maybe his seat position was not properly set to begin with. I think the best bet IS to go visit a qualified fitter.
Barring that, there are some online fit calculators which may be of use , ie. at Competitive Cyclist or Wrench Science.

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