Hoping the experts that helped me with my old cervelo can give me some recos for a new bike. There’s just too much to replace on the old one, and I’d like to be able to fit wider tires (28-30), which aren’t an option on my current. 22 years is a good return on investment.
Me: Retired from triathlon, mid 50’s. Usually do about 250K a week on relatively well kept paved roads (no gravel), riding solo 99% of the time. Priority is a well made, low fuss, durable bike that’s easy to maintain and adjust, and contains a minimum of proprietary parts.
Undecided on aluminum vs carbon rims, or mechanical vs DI2. Intention is to ideally keep at least 15 years. Not in the least bit bothered by weight. A little bit of aero might be nice, although really just to motivate, if that makes sense.
Budget ideally $7K-ish.
Options I’m considering available in my area (toronto) :
Cervelo Caledonia or Soloist
Cannondale Supersix evo (new release) - pricing better than cervelo and doesn’t cheap out on cranksets, looks nice, but headset cable routing looks complicated?
Argon 18 Sum (base model, not Pro)
Trek Emonda (Not sure on this one, particularly the steep front end geometry)
I’d love to hear some recos with the thought process!
I’m going to suggest something completely out of left field: at a budget of ~$7k (USD, I presume), either save a good bit of money and buy a used rim brake Trek Madone (2016-2017 vintage) or titanium/ steel from one of the numerous reputable builders.
Had you asked five years ago, I would have answered something like a Trek Madone rim brake. Could be set-up using non-proprietary parts, quite aero, and clears 30 mm tires. Trouble is, no one sells such a rim brake bike anymore. You might be able to find a really old new old stock somewhere, but I wouldn’t count on it.
With a titanium bike, one could customize as one wishes: tire clearance, rack mounts, fender eyelets, geometry, etc. $4500 for frameset.
Third option would be a builder such as Rob English. Similar price range as above.
Left field is good! Good thoughts, for sure. I’ve certainly no bias against rim brakes, but it does seem to limit choices now, let alone choices 10 years + from now, as I plan to keep whatever I buy for a long time, and may need to purchase more wheelsets in the future.
Regarding a custom builder - good option for some; I think I’d rather go with a larger manufacturer with local support/warranty here in toronto. I don’t think my needs are unique enough to require a custom option.
GMAN - I looked at Canyon, and the prices and builds look great… until you calculate the massive import tarrifs to get it shipped to Canada and clear customs. It essentially kills the value, and puts it on par with equivalent bikes at a local lbs.
Look at the Argon18 Krypton Pro as well. More of a long range, all day bike than the Sum, and lots of clearance if you ever choose to do packed dirt roads.
If you are considering ti, check out T-lab in Montreal. They are building some beautiful bikes.
Look at the Argon18 Krypton Pro as well. More of a long range, all day bike than the Sum, and lots of clearance if you ever choose to do packed dirt roads.
If you are considering ti, check out T-lab in Montreal. They are building some beautiful bikes.
Thanks - yeah, the krypton is a bit overkill for me. Rarely do I ride more than 2hrs, and don’t go off pavement.
If you go the rim brake route, have a look at Boyd wheels, they are committed to supporting rim brake bikes for the foreseeable future.
Also since you intend to keep the bike for a while, I think you might be better off with a mechanical bike, it seems like with the electronic groupsets they aren’t supporting them beyond 5-6 years.
GMAN - I looked at Canyon, and the prices and builds look great… until you calculate the massive import tarrifs to get it shipped to Canada and clear customs. It essentially kills the value, and puts it on par with equivalent bikes at a local lbs.
True, $800 shipping to Alaska… nah…
GMAN - I looked at Canyon, and the prices and builds look great… until you calculate the massive import tarrifs to get it shipped to Canada and clear customs. It essentially kills the value, and puts it on par with equivalent bikes at a local lbs.
Sorry. I thought by now Canyon would have distribution in Canada.
I am anti disc brakes, but if you plan to keep it for 15 years, I would go that route. Based on your aero over weight preference, I would check the new Scott foil, but I must admit I am a Scott fan boy.
Look at the Argon18 Krypton Pro as well. More of a long range, all day bike than the Sum, and lots of clearance if you ever choose to do packed dirt roads.
If you are considering ti, check out T-lab in Montreal. They are building some beautiful bikes.
Both of these bikes were at the Top of my List late last year when I pulled the trigger on a new bike.
Argon 18 - has JUST released two weeks ago a completely overhauled new 2023 Krypton this week. I saw it in the flesh for the first time today at the Paris-to-Ancaster bike race that was serving as the Canadian Gravel Championships.
It’s a TRUE all-rounder. I bought the 2022 Krypton GF with SRAM Force AXS eTap - SUPER happy with the bike!
These All-Rounders really should be the bikes that Triathletes look to as the 2nd bike - because you can literally do so many things with it.
Cannondale Supersix evo (new release) - pricing better than cervelo and doesn’t cheap out on cranksets, looks nice, but headset cable routing looks complicated?
I have the Supersix evo (not the very latest, but the ~2020 version).
The cable routing isn’t hard if you select one with “regular bars.” The cables do go down a port in front of the headset, but it is not really any more complicated than any internal routing. Maybe even somewhat easier in some sense because the port is “large” to allow for full left/right movement of the bars.
I really like the bike. It handles well, and is comfortable.
Cannondale Supersix evo (new release) - pricing better than cervelo and doesn’t cheap out on cranksets, looks nice, but headset cable routing looks complicated?
I have the Supersix evo (not the very latest, but the ~2020 version).
The cable routing isn’t hard if you select one with “regular bars.” The cables do go down a port in front of the headset, but it is not really any more complicated than any internal routing. Maybe even somewhat easier in some sense because the port is “large” to allow for full left/right movement of the bars.
I really like the bike. It handles well, and is comfortable.
Thanks for the feedback! I went to the cannondale site and did a bit of research. Yeah, you’re right, it does seem fairly user-friendly, - at least, as much as an internal route can be.
I’ll go check one out at a shop. I think it’s on the short list. I like how they have some “logo-less” paint schemes - very pleasing to my eye compared to the rolling billboard look.
Question, specifically on the handling - I definitely don’t want a twitchy/crit handling bike - basically, i’d like a very stable on high speed descents, straight line mile muncher. Does your bike sort of fit more into the latter mode than the former?
Question, specifically on the handling - I definitely don’t want a twitchy/crit handling bike - basically, i’d like a very stable on high speed descents, straight line mile muncher. Does your bike sort of fit more into the latter mode than the former?
It’s brilliant at descending and straight lines, having done some 50MPH twisty descents in the Sierras. Not the slightest hint of a speed wobble (though I understand that can be very setup-specific), and zero problem carving out predictable lines. And super easy to do long rides on. Also very good no hands e.g. when removing arm warmers on the go. Much better at the above than my old Cervelo S5, which I liked, but was on the twitchier side. It is a “racer geometry”, so it’s also probably good in crits, though I haven’t yet done one - hopefully soon.
Question, specifically on the handling - I definitely don’t want a twitchy/crit handling bike - basically, i’d like a very stable on high speed descents, straight line mile muncher. Does your bike sort of fit more into the latter mode than the former?
It’s brilliant at descending and straight lines, having done some 50MPH twisty descents in the Sierras. Not the slightest hint of a speed wobble (though I understand that can be very setup-specific), and zero problem carving out predictable lines. And super easy to do long rides on. Also very good no hands e.g. when removing arm warmers on the go. Much better at the above than my old Cervelo S5, which I liked, but was on the twitchier side. It is a “racer geometry”, so it’s also probably good in crits, though I haven’t yet done one - hopefully soon.
Love my Soloist that I got in November. Ultegra di2. I had an older R3 with mech brakes and maximum tire size of 25mm. I wanted to run wider tires and have disc brakes. I’m very happy with the new setup with 28mm tubeless tires on aero carbon rims. All for $7k. The only drawback is that it’s slightly heavier than my R3.
Cervelo says 34mm (measured) is the max so you should be good. I didn’t do BWR San Diego this year, but did the Wafer the previous two years on my Open U.P. and I was glad I had more rubber than that, however. I did do the full Waffle back in 2015 on my R3 with 25s, but I think the course has gotten tougher…and I’ve gotten softer
