Built for him last week. Dura Ace 7900 will be on it within a month.
HED Vantage 8 with Lazy S bends
DA 7800 with custom rear derailuer parts
Nokon and Jagwire cables
Selle Italia Saddle
TRP brake levers and TRP brake calipers
Ceramic DA BB
HED C2 69 wheelset (Richie also has H3cdeeps)
I was just about to ask about the custom derailleur parts… lol
Awesome build: I don’t care if the P4 is supposed to be faster. That bike looks Bad A$$
Hi Jason,
Sweet build… can you switch the front brake cable routing on the TRPs to the left side, from the right? (like on the Tektro’s they are based on).
If so it would really clean up the front end by having that left brake housing come straight off the left handlebar and go straight to the left side of that front brake caliper…and look sweeter still.
Again, sweet build…I just like the sound of HED 69’s 
T
Yes you can. We tried a few different setups, one including running the noodle behind the fork, which was the cleanest but it rubbed the frame. We will be changing out the bars to the HED Blackdog bars in 2 weeks so we will play around more and when we are in the wind tunnel in January we will experiment further.
Jason, Great pictures of an awesome set-up, thanks you for sharing, what does something like this tip the scales at? Glen
That’s Sweet!!! You just need Jagwire to custom anodize some barcons for you in red or even better a nice powdercoated pearl white…
Red, white and black are definitely back!
Gorgeous build and it’ll look even better with that 7900 crank on there. Can’t wait to see one in real life;)
About 16.5 lbs no pedals
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Question- is the top of the lazy-s cut off? Looks like that would only work with a jagwire shifter bracket?
Only about 1/4 of an inch was taken off the shifter side. There is still plent of room for a bar end shifter in there actaully. I just like the Jagwirs and their ease of use. Richie has all 3 extensions cut to length (lazy s, std s and single bends) to try out and the jagwires are easier to make swaps of the extensions.
Good call. I know as I have been doing some changing out myself.
Realized that I hate s-bends. I try to like them but I find that I end up holding them between my knuckles an my hand goes into a j-bend like position anyway.
I have a set of lazy s-bends that I may try.
Any idea if jagwire makes a bracket that takes a SRAM bar-end shifter?
HEHE Jet69, the only way to ride.
Any idea if jagwire makes a bracket that takes a SRAM bar-end shifter? <<
they do i believe
jason, can you tell me what the difference is between a Jet 6 or 9 vs the 08 Jet C2 60 or 90? the data shows the Jet 6/9 to be faster but i don’t think it was ever quite clear what they did in terms of modifications.
That’s so sweet. I’m selling my P3 for a Dean.
the C2s have the wider 23mm rim which make for a comfortable ride and increase the tire patch for cornering and they say reduces rolling resistance. the wider rim also changes the shape of the torodial rim slightly as the carbon is buldged out a little more. The new Stinger 6 and 9 have similar shapes now to the C2 except in the braking surface and its shape (on the new stingers)
Hey Jason,
Maybe you can answer a question for me. Several websites list the seat tube C to C for a size XS as 497, added to 235 for the Center to top measurement. How much more space does the seat mounting hardware take up. By this I mean from the top of the seat mast where it’s cut to the rail clamps. I’m wondering if the seat would be low enough for me if the seat mast is cut to it’s lowest point, with the mounting hardware added on top of that. I guess it depends on what type of saddle is used as well. I’m using a Toupe now, which is pretty low profile. I noticed that the seat tube/top tube junction is flared, so the hardware may not get low/close enough to the top tube. I’m about 5’5 with a 78 1/2cm inseam. Thanks for any info.
Not counting saddle height, the clamp from top of the mast takes up about 4cm. these photos I just took of Jonas Colting’s Ridley that I am building.
Note that you can see on top of the carbon mast in the clamp are spacers that allow you to adjust saddle height nearly 3cm.
I think the xs would be ok with the saddle at the lowest for you but would check first before purchasing. I dont have any XSs here but will in a few weeks.
Thanks for the pictures and info. At the point where you taped the measuring tape, what is the distance from that point upward to the saddle rails? Looks like another 2cm or so?
About 2.5cm
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