I’m looking into purchasing the cateye cd300 computer ($180) and would be interested in feedback from those who have used this product.
Just from looking at this computer online, the sensor seems huge…
My wife has one and it works great. So great that my new road bike will have one. Sensor is a little big, but it is both speed and cadence in one piece, which is broken into two pieces on most computers. Rear mount is really nice as it works on a trainer.
BTW-available on-line for $139.
I’ve used one this season, and I like it. The only issue I had with it was at one race when it went into “sleep” mode during the swim portion (unlike the Avocet, it doesn’t “wake up” when the wheel starts turning – you have to push the buttons, so unless you do that first, you lose that data).
The sensor isn’t small, but it’s not so huge as to be a problem. It tucks right in the area behind the seat tube on the left chainstay, and can blend in pretty well. And it you have a brushed titanium bike, the color helps it to blend in. Installation was easy, and I haven’t had any issues with it not picking up.
I like the mount for the display – the bracket puts it in front of the bars instead of on the bars. Helps make it easier to see when aero.
Lastly, check ebay. I got mine for about half the price you’re quoting.
I figured you could get the computer cheaper online, but I have a significant REI dividend (+20% off) coming my way in feb. So I thought I would just buy it there.
the sensor is big, but it really doesn’t get in the way of anything so I’ve learned to live with it. Otherwise i have no complaints with the whole thing. I like seeing my cadence otherwise I would have gotten the cateye micro wireless which has a much smaller sensor
I love mine and have found that it doesn’t go through batteries like some of the other large function units do.
I like the sleep function only for the reason that I don’t get/lose race or training info while walking my bike to my car or further.
The sensor isn’t small, but it’s not so huge as to be a problem. It tucks right in the area behind the seat tube on the left chainstay, and can blend in pretty well.
This isn’t always true. It really depends on the size fo the chainstay’s and, more importantly, the clearance between the chainstay and the wheel.
My own experience was not so great when I tried it on my last bike (Klein). With such a large sensor and such little clearance between the chainstay and the wheel…eventually the two collided with just a minor bump of the unit.
For the 3 weeks it was working, it was really a cool unit.
Cateye is a great company. But this may not be the best product for all bikes. When I contacted Cateye, they were quick to appologize and said they realized this might be a problem with some frame designs. They fully reimbursed me (sent me a brand new unit so I could return it) and I switched to a different Cateye model.
Again, nothing against Cateye or the quality of their products in general. However, with this particular unit I would be careful to examine it with your bike on location at your local LBS and make sure you feel comfortable that there is enough clearance before purchasing.
I suppose it would have been more right of me to refer to it as the “sending unit” rather than the sensor (the little “wing” that picks up the signal for the passing magnet). You are right in that clearance between the chainstay and the spokes can be an issue. I had about a 2" range that I could mount the unit on the chainstay where there was enough clearance. But within that range, no issues. When I put in the disk wheel (Renn flat disk), I have to adjust the sensor out one “click” for it to pick up (two rare earth magnets taped to the wheel).
i don’t love mine. Previously, I had been using the wired version and have had many other CatEye products before. I have had really good success with all of them until now. The sending/measuring unit is pretty huge. I had a really hard time tucking in, out of the way on my Lucero. I have gotten it work OK with a little messing around, but the calibration has never been right. I keep resetting it, and it never seems to be right. My speed and odometer have both been off the whole time I’ve had it. Cateye has not responded to repeated emails about this. I have been surprised by this since I have had really good luck with their stuff in the past and have always heard about their good CS.
For the 650s on my race bike, I had to actually measure the rollout of the wheel, as the manual doesn’t have the numbers for that size. Once I did that, it’s been spot on.
I am going to have to second the negative opinions along with Veggie Terror. I loved the fact that it could work both on the road and the trainer. I had mine work fantastically for about 4 months. Ever since then, it has gone steadily downhill. I was replacing batteries and recalibrating more often than I felt I should. Then it was just shutting down or losing signal avery week or two. Then it worsened to the point where it would go no further than 40 feet before the signal would cut out completely. I have tried a whole list of things. I have reinstalled it more times than I am willing to count, reading re-reading and following the directions to a “T.” I have tried mounting it in many different positions. All to no avail. I grew much to frustrated and it is sitting on my work bench in parts. I broke down and bought a Mavic wintech and couldn’t be happier. I e-mailed Cat-Eye as well, and I recieved no response nothing. I feel products need to be idiot proof in their setup and maintainence in order to be successful. The CD300DW just wasn’t simple enough for me. I forget who has the tagline but it is like they say if you’re dumb, you gatta be tough. I haven’t found this one smart or tough. I was just really glad I ddin’t pay full price (I work at REI, so I got a discount).
“For the 650s on my race bike, I had to actually measure the rollout of the wheel, as the manual doesn’t have the numbers for that size. Once I did that, it’s been spot on.”
This should be done for every wheel and every time you change to a different brand of tire. All 700 tires are not alike and all 650 tires are not alike. 650x23 tires vary significantly between each other and even moreso vs. 650x20 tires. Same thing in the 700 tire realm. If you’re not rolling out and resetting every time you change a wheel or tire, you’re NEVER going to have an accurate measure of speed or distance.
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I use one. As long as you loctite all screws when you assemble (so as to handle road vibration) it is a very reliable system. I rate it (as opposed to the mavic system) especially if you want a wireless cadence feature.
I, too, had a poor experience with the double wireless model. After several re-installations/calibrations/battery changes, I finally took it off the bike. I haven’t sent mine back, yet, but my LBS said they thought some models (or manufacturing runs) were recalled by Cateye.
I have one that I’ve owned for months now and have never mounted on my bike yet. I got it for a time trial bike and the mounting bracket for the computer head simply won’t work with my aerobars or base bar. I’m trying to keep things minimal on the front end of this bike, so I’m not interested in rigging some kind of bar between the aero extensions just to mount a computer. This seems like a major design oversight to me that their design is so aerobar unfriendly.
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I also don’t really like it, as mine broke. They were more than willing to replace the broken sensor unit, but I decided to bag the whole device. The problem was that when dismounting with shoes on the pedals the shoes hit it more than one time and eventually trashed the unit. For a regular road bike, it works pretty well and I like the functions, but I also got annoyed when the unit moved around a bit due to the tight clearances. If you do choose to buy it, go with ebay–cheapest.
This should be done for every wheel and every time you change to a different brand of tire. All 700 tires are not alike and all 650 tires are not alike. 650x23 tires vary significantly between each other and even moreso vs. 650x20 tires. Same thing in the 700 tire realm. If you’re not rolling out and resetting every time you change a wheel or tire, you’re NEVER going to have an accurate measure of speed or distance.
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so, without totally hijacking this thread, can someone give a link or some info on how to properly do a rollout test?
so, without totally hijacking this thread, can someone give a link or some info on how to properly do a rollout test?
Here’s how I do it.
You’re going to walk your bike while leaning on the saddle to weight it somewhat. This gives a more accurate measurement.
Find a very flat, smooth place (I use the deck on the back of my house and roll the bike lengthwise with the boards). You need to measure the wheel that has the sensor on it. Start with the valve for that wheel at the bottom of the rotation. Be as precise as you can. Sometimes it’s better to use the edge of a label on the tire or a letter to get a reference point for the start of your roll. Mark that on the point on the ground/deck with a pencil or pen. Now, walk with the bike while you lean your weight into the saddle until you’ve gone one full wheel revolution and the valve (or whatever reference point you used) is at the bottom again. Be as precise as you can. Mark the ground/deck again. Measure the distance between the points. Repeat this three times and average the three.
Convert fractions of inches to decimals. Multiply the resulting inches by 25.4 to convert to millimeters (the units that are used in most computers).
One thing I do that makes this easier is I start my rollout with the reference point on my tire (I usually use the edge of the Vittoria label) aligned directy over the edge of a deck board (at the steps down off the deck). This way I can hang the lip of my tape measure over the end of the deck board to pull my measurement.
Hope this helps.
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Something else that will help is to roll the wheel along an edge – a board or something – to make sure it rolls straight.
I have one on my track bike andit is great.
Only thing I don’t like is the way it downloads.