Returning to triathlon, old, out of shape, Tri bike questions

Triathlon Forum
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Long warning.

So in my 40s I did lots of local triathlons and two halves. I wasn’t fast, wasn’t good at any of the 3 sports, but I was in way better shape than 95% of the population.

I had a 2nd kid (she’s 10 now and an incredible swimmer), overly demanding job and blew out my left knee in the garage, not exercising. The doctors post surgery said I’d recover fast because I was healthy. That didn’t happen. It was 3 years before the pain was gone. The job had me traveling 4-6 months a year and I got out of shape again. Then Covid impacted everyone and my job went away with it.

Now I have a new job and way more control over work life balance. I decided I really want to finish an IM someday. I’m not looking to be fast, it’s just something I want to do.

Last October I did a sprint race with longer ride (20 miles). I’m doing it again this year and want to take off about 15 minutes from last year. I will be on a road bike as usual. I’ve never been comfortable on a tri bike, not even a little.

My new bike has disc brakes, electronic shifting (AXS), 28mm wide tires and aftermarket wheels. I love riding it more than any bike I’ve owned before. A BMC team machine just fits me. I am way more comfortable on it than I’ve ever been on any bike.

I’m short, stocky, very wide in the shoulders, not super flexible and weigh more than I should. I am very worried about bike fit. I’m 5’ 6 1/2” per my service record and have a 29” inseam. I’ve always ridden 50cm - 52cm road bikes. I tried a Felt B16 about 10 years ago and was super uncomfortable. I once paid for a 4 hr for session too and the fitter was as frustrated as I was. I will not name the person or shop.

I bought Dave Luscans book on tri bike fitting. I get it now. I have to get my hips rotated or it will never work. I also need a smaller crank, I ride 170mm on my road bikes, but I probably want 160mm or less to get into the right hip and leg position on a tri bike.

Are there any good fitters within 4 hrs of Jackson, MS? I’d pay for good data.

Or do I just go for it based on the info in Dave’s book and forum feedback? I’m thinking I need a 50cm or small tri bike. I’m worried I will spend lots of money on saddles, stems, spacers etc if I do my own fitting.

Can I use my old trainer with an axle adapter? I see them for sale.

Do I just buy an old cheap tri bike in my size and use it as a training and coordinate test bed?

I really want electronic shifting, disc brakes, and a bike that fits properly! I can use my wheels or buy another set or a front and disc cover.

I’ve also realized I’m going to need to return to contacts for the right position since I wear glasses. I have nice Oakley prescription glasses but even on a road bike so see the top of the frame. That may be the cause of my neck pain. 10 years ago wearing contacts that wasn’t an issue.

I never realized our host Dan was behind QR and that QR was based in Chattanooga. I go there for training for work sometimes. Do they have a fitter nearby they recommend?

I want to pull the trigger on a QR in 50cm with 105 Di2 since I know I can get a 160mm crank in 105 / Ultegra now. However saddles scare me and so does needing stem and lots of aero bar / pad adjustments. I can do it, but getting good measurements (the bad fit posts scare me too), and fit ready seems ideal.

Options:

  1. find great fitter with fit bike and lots of saddles
  2. get an old tri bike in a reasonable able size, get it fit well and figure out a sad lie that works for me. This will likely result in sunk costs.
    3). Get a bike I want in a size in my range and fit myself using Dave’s book, forum feedback and possibly digital remote services.

Any suggestions?

Here is the geometry from my road steed (51cm).

P.S. thanks to Dave L. for his excellent book. It clearly explained how someone my size can get into the correct position.

And for anyone that cares in 2011 when I began my tri journey I was 250. I got to less than 210 for my halves. I am 216 today and will be less than 200 before so do another half and less than 185 for a full. My boot camp weight was 170, but that was 30 years ago. I want to fight getting old and live as long as I can. Being faster would just be a cherry on top.

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  1. Have fun on your comfortable road bike.
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The lack of responses here might have something to do with your post. Way too much info and somewhat vague. Suggestion: identify what kind of events you do and what are your goals. What needs improvement?

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You probably need 150mm or 155m cranks.

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I agree, and I am having lots of fun on my road bike. I will ride it in two sprints next month.

I also agree that it was too many words.

Lastly after reading Dave Luscans book, I understand why I never felt comfortable previously in the drops with a 172.5 mm crank. It just felt awful. I’m also reading Dave Burt’s fit book.

I ordered bike from QR with a 160mm crank. That’s what Shimano makes and is available. I’m afraid 150mm or 155mm would be better too. If I decide smaller is needed I guess powermetercity will get my money again. My road bikes have quarqs. If 160 works I will probably send the crank to 4iii.

I’m going to follow Dave Ls instructions and work on my fit myself. My wife can take my videos and photos. When I get close, and can ride the bike in the drops comfortably, I will solicit inputs here or just pay Dave for his analysis as confirmation.

Dave’s book showed me that being bigger wasn’t my issue, my fit was just terrible. I’m probably wider in the shoulders than most here too, but I can work through that as well.

My tri goals: When I did them regularly I was MoP to BoP and slow, but I was way healthier than the average person. My goal is to get even fitter this time and stay that way to be around as long as possible for my family. I’m just trying to beat myself and be the best version of myself. I’d like to eventually finish a full and do some of the wilder long off-road tris too. That’s it, be healthier and have fun. In order to get out the door, I need an event in my calendar.

Yes I don’t need a tri bike for that, however free speed will really help on longer events. I plan to ride my new bike next April at an Olympic distance race. I’ve been shrinking a lb a month or so. Next year I’m going to race a few Olympic distance events, 2026 a half, and maybe a full in 2027. I’m enjoying getting out the door more than ever and not worrying about speed just frequency and duration.

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Have you considered Rotor cranks with their power meter?

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If I decide 150 or 155 is going to be the way, Rotor has a lot of nice options at powermetercity, so yes. I will need something that is Di2 12 speed Shimano compatible.

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SRM composite cranks also go down to 150mm if you’re feeling spendy.

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I’m Ultegra or Force spendy. I’m not fast enough, cool enough or rich enough for Dura Ace or Red; so I feel I’m already a bit too spendy,

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Dura-Ace and Red cranksets only go down to 160mm.

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I know which is sad. After listening to the Jim Martin podcast on crank length, I may end up buying a 150mm rotor with a power meter (found it via forum search). One of the pro bikers he talked about was built like me, shorter with huge legs. He surmised that guy would be way better on 145s. It seems like 150 is the most reasonable size to acquire with power for less than a mortgage payment. It’s a shame Shimano’s smallest is 160. I will start there.

Everything in the podcast about hip angles, getting lower and making more efficient power by limiting knee and hip angles really resonated with me. It also explains a lot why my first attempt at aero position was never confidence inspiring. Being able to raise the seat and limit hip and knee angles will give me space to get lower and keep space between knees and elbows.

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JCOB goes down to 145 and fits hollowtech BBs. I have them on 2 bikes and they work great and aren’t too pricey. And they’re 8-bolt for a spider attachment so it’s easy to find rings/PMs that fit.

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I was referring to the SRM Origin power meter crankset (https://srm.de), not SRAM Red - in case that wasn’t clear.