I just picked up a new compact crankset and am trying to decide if I should replace it myself, or have my LBS replace it (I have a great LBS that I do like to support).
I complete most routine work myself (lube all necessary components, adjust brakes and derailleurs, fix flats, etc…) but usually have my shop do jobs that I am not as use to completing such as fixing broken spokes, truing wheels, etc… One task I have never tried is changing a crankset or bottom bracket. Is this something better left to them? I do not have the specific shimano tool to remove or install the crank. I also do not have the necessary torque wrench for a crank (my smaller torque wrench does not go up high enough for a crank).
If you think it will be piece of cake, I’ll do it myself, if not I’d gladly have them do it. Also, should you always replace the bottom bracket when you replace the crank? My bike is about 10 years old and I doubt the bottom bracket has ever been changed (I bought it lightly used about 5 years ago. though it is very smooth, no creaks, no concerns).
How much should it cost for my LBS to change it form me?
My LBS was going to charge me 30$ and I ended up ordering an ultegra standard and a new da 9000 bb off amazon for very cheap and instead of paying 30$ i got a new chain and a park tool chain breaker with bb tool and did it myself and bought some poly grease at another shop for 8.00. very simply j ust make sure to read grease the threads in the bb and on the bb itself and then remember each bb turns in in oppisite way as it should state on the bb. I just went typical tightness and then one more push feeling it lock into place. and installing the crank is easy. just slide it through and make sure your in small/small when removing and putting on the chain. and then i tighted same on my cranks bolts. i had the lbs check out my install later and they said it was great
If you have the right tools (depends on the crank/bb) then it’s a DIY job. If you’re only going to do this once, skip on buying the tools and have the LBS do it.
It’s really hard to tell if the BB bearings are in good shape while the crank is on. Once it’s off, you can spin the axle, should have some drag from the seals, but should turn smoothly w/o a gritty feel.
If you are a regular, have your shop do it and tip with beer. It’s not too hard if you know what you’re doing. If you’ve had to install your own plumbing at home or reroute electrical conduit, you’ll be OK with the right tools. Trust me, I’ve faced and reamed many frames for BB installs, but still worry about PF30 installs. Also, internal cable routing with no guides takes practice and patience. When you can wrap bar tape like a pro and glue a tubular to a Belgian’s standards, you’ve made it!
The Park Tools website has a bunch of great tutorials on how to change various types of cranks. Check there to get instructions on how to do your particular cranks/BB. I agree with the poster above, if this is likely a one time deal and you don’t have the right tools, have the lbs do it.
A lot depends. With all the various bottom bracket and crank spindle standards out there these days, there’s no telling what you might need in terms of spacers and washers, etc. to get the thing mounted properly. You can do some internet research about your specific bike and your specific crank to see if anything extra is required in the way of spacers. This is probably the most complicated aspect.
You didn’t say what bike, what crank, etc. It’s rather important to know those things to know how easy or hard it might be. If you have external bearing cups that thread into the frame (in other words … if your frame is about 5 years old or so), it might be a real piece of cake. If you have a newer frame with press fit bearings, every manufacturer is aggravatingly different. If what I’ve written here has made you go, “huh?” … then take it to your LBS.
I do all of my own wrenching, but the very last thing I learned to tackle myself was the cranks/BB. I have a lot of bikes and they’re all a little different … just enough to really piss you off.
Seems to me that this is one of those, “If you have to ask, then…” questions. If you have to ask what if you or your LBS should do the work, it’s likely that the lbs is the better option.
yea do it. With the tools its pretty easy. Unless you don’t want to do it, then take it to the shop. lol.
I do all my own work and I think I’m really good at fixing bikes, so I go to the shop to buy the tools.
Looking at what you already do, you should be good.
I’m actually mechanically retarded and I did it myself. Don’t worry about the torque wrench; it sounds like you have Shimano, yeah? Just make sure the two pinch bolts on the non-drive side are the same tightness, and don’t over-tighten the preload cap or w/e it’s called. Honestly there are many people (probably including myself) who couldn’t torque it up to 40 N*m if they tried.
There are some youtube videos that walk you through it too.
I guess I’ll be among the dissenters. For doing the work, the LBS should have:
The proper tool to fit both your old and new bb, which might not be the same
The proper tool to face both sides of the BB (if you don’t know, a light machining operation to ensure the outer mounting surfaces are flat)
A good torque wrench to get everything properly tightened.
I’m not generally a fan of “good and tight” for bolts, especially with aluminum and carbon parts. It’s easy to do damage to expensive stuff that way, the torque wrench is your friend.
I’d change the chain while you’re at it.
I’ve changed maybe 20 of these myself on my personal bikes - and so far I’ve ended up with a fair number of creakers, kludged cups with the tool slips, and one mangled set of BB threads. If it is a good shop that you trust, you’ll get a job that you’ll be happy with without worrying you’re going to screw it up. Aluminum cups and aluminum threads can go south VERY quickly if things aren’t quite right.
Seems to me that this is one of those, “If you have to ask, then…” questions. If you have to ask what if you or your LBS should do the work, it’s likely that the lbs is the better option.
This, but I would argue you should view a couple youtube videos. Replacing a crank means nothing and can sound mystical ;). But then when you go to youtube and see how easy it is, BAM, it isn’t so mystical anymore. I’m replacing mine tomorrow, and was wondering the same thing, until I looked and saw I literally only need a 10mm hex ratchet and remove a self locking pin. Some might require a torque wrench, but it isn’t like head spacing a gun. You are dealing with minimal moving parts that are solid/strong in nature, not fine precision pieces that can break easily.
When you can wrap bar tape like a pro and glue a tubular to a Belgian’s standards, you’ve made it!
I’ve always wondered why people find it difficult to wrap bar tape? I haven’t personally wrapped very many bars like a mechanic who does it for a living but never found it hard to get it right and seemed pretty easy to me. I just recently wrapped a drop bar for the first time with brand new tape (replaced some parts and couldn’t salvage the tape already on there) and didn’t have any problems but haven’t ridden the bike (won’t until the winter thaw is done either as I use a different bike on my trainer). The only bar tape with extended use that I’ve wrapped is for aerobar extensions (non sticky ones) but that is a cakewalk for many (I would imagine).
Just perplexes me that is all. I spent many years wrapping new grips on my tennis racquets (a couple of times a year usually) when I was a teen and so maybe that gave me quite a bit of practice as the first couple of times it would come apart from a poor wrapping job.
Also, to the OP, it is a really easy job if you have the BB removal tool (proper one for your cups). You don’t really need a torque wrench if you know how to properly torque things down by hand as another has said. People who have wrenched for years can just get a feel for it with most screws/nuts/bolts in most cases. I watch a trusted car mechanic install spark plugs by feel to the proper toque like how the rest of us tie our shoes. Most of the time I can feel when a screw is torqued down just enough and would give it that 1/8-3/16 turn past to lock it in there.
I do my own stuff to the extent of barrel adjusters, limit screws and whatnot. I’ll change brakes out and rethread cables.
I’ve come to the conclusion the front derailleur is more of a pain in the neck for me than it’s worth so the LBS does that one. I’ll do most of the other stuff.
I was swapping out a Shimano Tiagra 10 speed crank with a SRAM 950 (each was on a different bike and I wanted them each on the other bike)
The LBS was swamped and couldn’t get to it so I picked up a crank wrench, Park Tool and took them home.
one 8mm hex wrench, one 4mm (I believe) and the bottom bracket wrench and I was completely shocked how easy it was to swap them.
Hell yes you can do it. Get the bottom bracket tool, don’t try to make do for that, though.
