am going to be starting a winter road bike/trainer build project soon, and i’m thinking i’d like to have a torque wrench. as more and more of our bikes are made of carbon it seems wise. even stuff like balancing out the load on stem faceplates or getting tension right on fussy areo seatposts.
this will be the first one i’ve ever bought or even used.
I have this one. I like it. It has a case with sockets which makes storage and use easy. It is lower torque ranges, which is suited for smaller bolts and attachments.
This is the thing you’re looking for. Real brand, well made, easy to use, not terribly expensive, hits pretty much every rating you’ll need for a bicycle.
When you outgrow that wrench, you’ll not need other’s opinion on which one to replace it with.
I have this one. I like it. It has a case with sockets which makes storage and use easy. It is lower torque ranges, which is suited for smaller bolts and attachments.
You can almost always find a coupon to get it for around $10. For a few dollars you can buy all the hex and torque bits you need.
I read a lot of reviews and watched videos first, and it seemed like the accuracy of this unit is right in line with every other wrench tested. Like all click-type torque wrenches, you’ll want to exercise the tool before you use it, always take all the tension out before putting it away, don’t throw it around, don’t hammer it, etc.
For me, the biggest downside is that the wrench is engraved for inch pounds and cm kgs, not NMs. But, you can easily print out a chart for nm to in-lb and leave that in the case with the tool.
I’m pretty big on Tekton for enthusiast/DIY level stuff now. I was gifted the 1/2" and 3/8" Pittsburgh Pro wrenches you linked and had one break while working on my car. Did a little more than ‘flame’ my hand.
The CDI one that was recommended is great for 95% of what you’ll do on the bike, from a very reputable brand, for a very reasonable price.
I personally have that CDI & the large park clicker at home, which covers the full range of every bolt on every bike. I also have a Giustaforza for my travel/race kit, and have been very happy with all 3. Given the trust you’ll be putting in this tool, I wouldn’t suggest a super budget option. To me the CDI is a no brainer at the price.
I’ve used a HF 1/4" torque wrench before and it has worked perfectly. I use this online unit converter tool below.
Convert newton meter to inch lbs - Conversion of Measurement Units (convertunits.com)
Other wrenches I’ve considered buying (pricier) are Pedro’s, Shimano PRO and Park tool torque wrenches but since the HF one has been doing the job, I have no reason to upgrade. Also don’t forget buy a 3/4" to 1/4" socket adapter if you don’t already have the smaller 1/4" bits.
Pro Torque Wrench - Tools - Pedro’s NA Amazon.com : PRO Adjustable Torque Wrench - 3-15 Nm Black/Silver, One Size : Home Improvement Amazon.com: Park Tool TW-5.2 Ratcheting Click-Type Torque Wrench: Sports & Outdoors
I have this one. I like it. It has a case with sockets which makes storage and use easy. It is lower torque ranges, which is suited for smaller bolts and attachments.
I also have the Shimano Pro one and I like it but I got it at pro deal pricing for $50 or less back when I got it. Actually picked up a second. With that being said, I bought a GF the following and used this to wrench on her bike plenty of times. It is solid. She had no complaints either and traveled and disassembled and reassembled her carbon bike many times without issue.
I have tried a rebranded Var (2-20Nm) and a Hazet (40-200Nm / note that I have bought this one for other purposes than my bikes, but I happen to use it for things like cranksets, discs and cassettes).
The Var wrench is not good. Especially when you have tried something like Hazet quality.
But then I didn’t mention their prices and yes, Hazet is expensive.
I also have the Shimano Pro one and I like it but I got it at pro deal pricing for $50 or less back when I got it.Ditto. I think I got mine for around $60. I was a bit shocked to see the current price at $116.
You can almost always find a coupon to get it for around $10. For a few dollars you can buy all the hex and torque bits you need.
I read a lot of reviews and watched videos first, and it seemed like the accuracy of this unit is right in line with every other wrench tested. Like all click-type torque wrenches, you’ll want to exercise the tool before you use it, always take all the tension out before putting it away, don’t throw it around, don’t hammer it, etc.
For me, the biggest downside is that the wrench is engraved for inch pounds and cm kgs, not NMs. But, you can easily print out a chart for nm to in-lb and leave that in the case with the tool.
I also bought this HF torque wrench (as well as one of their larger ones) after reading reviews comparing the accuracy - which were well within and sometimes better than ranges provided by other big-name brands. Use them regularly on the bicycles, dirt bikes, cars/trucks, etc etc.
I may pick up the hand-sized one linked above to complement the HF one, as sometimes the longer handles and/or the head of the wrench make it challenging to reach tight spaces.
I have been using the click type ratchet torque tools for years now. They work, but I don’t like that feeling of waiting for the ‘click’. I tend to torque progressively (i.e. if torque is 4N m, I torque the bolts to 2, then 3, then 4N m) to be on the safe side
Recently, I bought a beam style torque wrench and I appreciate that I can see where my torque is at while turning the wrench. They are inexpensive too. The beam style is now my go to torque wrench.
I have been using the click type ratchet torque tools for years now. They work, but I don’t like that feeling of waiting for the ‘click’. I tend to torque progressively (i.e. if torque is 4N m, I torque the bolts to 2, then 3, then 4N m) to be on the safe side
Recently, I bought a beam style torque wrench and I appreciate that I can see where my torque is at while turning the wrench. They are inexpensive too. The beam style is now my go to torque wrench.
This is exactly how I feel. Plus, at least how I understand it, if the bar is straight and undamaged, reading zero at rest, then it’s accurate.
Does anyone who is a home mechanic actually ever recalibrate a click type ratchet torque wrench? I’m totally with you about having click anxiety and that will only get worse the longer you’ve had it.
I have been using the click type ratchet torque tools for years now. They work, but I don’t like that feeling of waiting for the ‘click’. I tend to torque progressively (i.e. if torque is 4N m, I torque the bolts to 2, then 3, then 4N m) to be on the safe side
Recently, I bought a beam style torque wrench and I appreciate that I can see where my torque is at while turning the wrench. They are inexpensive too. The beam style is now my go to torque wrench.
This is exactly how I feel. Plus, at least how I understand it, if the bar is straight and undamaged, reading zero at rest, then it’s accurate.
Does anyone who is a home mechanic actually ever recalibrate a click type ratchet torque wrench? I’m totally with you about having click anxiety and that will only get worse the longer you’ve had it.
Plus one.
I once dropped my click-style wrench from 4ft up on a concrete floor, which caused it to consistently over-torque (when compared to my beam-wrench).
Also, smaller cheaper click-style wrenches are susceptible to internal binding, when used at off-angle.