I did a search, but honestly didn’t know what to search for regarding this problem. Anyway, when I spin my cranks in the forward direction and then stop to coast (while the bike is in the stand), the cranks continue to spin with the rear hub. If I hold the crank while the rear wheel is coasting, the chain sags onto the rear chain stay. And you can’t easily spin the cranks in reverse, as again, they hang onto the rear stay. Is the locking ring on my cassette too tight? It’s only about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn past hand tight, which I’m sure is well below the recommended torque. Wheel is a zipp 606 with DT Swiss 240 hub with Shimano spline. I’m using an IRD cassette with a DA 10 lock ring (it’s significantly lighter than the IRD lock ring, and there isn’t any chain interference when on the small cog). FWIW, I had the hub apart for a bearing upgrade and just put the cassette back on tonight. Everything looks fine with the hub/wheel until you try and coast. Thanks
Probably too much grease around the bearings…it should work it’s way back to normal after some miles, unless you really overdid it.
You have an issue with the bearing in the wheel. Likely, when you reassembled the bearings, you overtightened the cones on either side of the axle. They do not need to be as tight as possible. They need to be tightened enough to remove any play, but not so much that they bind the bearings which is causing your problem. The lock ring on the cassette should be tightened pretty good. Even if you tightened it as much as possible, it would not cause your problem.
Good luck!
Anyone else glance at “dido”'s screenname and their minds tells them there is an extra “L” in there for a second?
Yeah, me neither.
OK, back on topic. I have no idea.
There aren’t any “L”'s so there can’t be an extra “L” AND are you 5?
The cones slip on (press on), they are not threaded, i.e. no tightening involved. http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=hubs.bikedetail&id=24
how tight did you close the skewer?
Ship the wheel directly to me, immediately. I’ll repair the booboo you made, and then to save you any further problems I’ll test ride the wheel a few thousand miles before shipping it back to you at my cost : )
I’m such a nice guy!!
Not terribly tight. I thought the same thing. Since the cones are press fit, the tightness of the skewer probably effects the bearing loading. I’ll double check and perhaps loosen and see how it goes. Thanks.
You wouldn’t want them:) They’re terribly fast, light and now have ceramic bearings.
I’m not familiar with the DT Swiss hub, but that’s where the problem is. When you disassemble/reassemble the freehub, how does it attach to the wheel/axle ?
Rotate the freehub backwards, the way it would turn when coasting - does it seem stiffer than it used to ?
Bearing tightness won’t cause this problem - there isn’t any mechanism to transfer it to the chain when coasting…
The lockring should simply tighten onto the freehub itself, but I suppose it’s possible it’s putting some compression onto the freehub, though this seems unlikely.
Were the bearings the only change you made ?
There aren’t any “L”'s so there can’t be an extra “L” AND are you 5?.
Wow. Consider me remprimanded.
Yep, bearings were the only change. If you look at the link above, you can find an assembly print of the DT swiss 240 hub, if you’re interested. It spins backwards smoothly, but not very freely. I don’t recall how free it spun before, but it’s much “tighter” than a FSA wheel I have laying around that I spun. Where the FSA hub will spin a bit after I remove my hand, the DT hub stops immediately when I remove my hand. The free hub just slips onto the axle and is held on by a press fit end cup. BTW, thanks for your assistance.
The star ratchet that DT uses is a face ratchet with lots of surface contact so those hubs tend to have higher freewheel drag than most. But it sounds like you may have pinched the seal or at least not gotten the seal in there just right, also if you have used a thick waterproof grease or axle grease on the face ratchet you can generate higher than average friction within the hub. I haven’t taken one of these apart in a while, but there is a seal between the freehub body and hubshell that could be pinched between them and I would imagine cause considerable drag, this would also explain the freewheel movement being stiff but smooth. This cannot be a bearing issue as the bearings in this hub all ride on the axle and there are no bearings taht connect the freewheel body to hubshell, which is where the friction is being generated in this situation.
josh
I’ve never had a 240 apart, but your description sounds typical of a bad or improperly assembled freehub. As it worked before the bearing swap, my guess would be an assembly error unless you packed the freehub with thick grease during the rebuild.
I total WAG would be that the seal (#6 on page 8) isn’t seated correctly and is rubbing against the star ratchet causing it not to rotate easily, I’ve seen this on other hubs.
Good luck and enjoy your ceramic bearings.
Josh, I know the seal you are referring to, so I’ll take a look. I also used some Phil Wood grease to lube the star ratchets. I have since aquired the DT Swiss tool kit which includes some of the DT grease. I’ll take it apart again tonight to relube and inspect the seal. Thanks, Kevin.
Only the bearings in the hub itself were changed to ceramic. The bearings in the splined free hub were not removed, and are OEM. Thanks. That seal sounds like the ticket.
yep, I think josh has it right, grease and/or seal. I looked at the manual for the dt hubs, could easily get something a shade off in the reassembly. Shimano isn’t as sexy, but it’s a lot simpler…
FWIW, I thought I’d follow up. I completely disassembled the hub again, and inspected it as I did so. There was no apparent evidence of the seal being pinched, and the lube didn’t look too heavy. So I reassembled it and this time it was even worse. So for a third time, I break it completely down, and build it back up, and voila, it works. Can’t say what I did differently, other than I followed the installation instructions to a ‘T’, but I also did that during reassembly #2. The only thing I can think of is that during builds 1 and 2, I put the drive side retaining cap on with a rubber hammer. There is a notch on the axle that is supposed to engage the cap and seat it for proper alignment. The last time I put it together, I just pushed it on by hand. Perhaps when using the rubber hammer, I pressed the end cap on beyond the seating position, causing excess binding between the two star gears that engage the hub. If the end cap was pressed on too tight, it may have not allowed complete disengagement of the star gears, thus inhibiting coasting. Live and learn. Many thanks to all your suggestions. I was beginning to sweat a bit as I have a Half Ironman on Sunday:) Cheers, Kevin.