I mounted up a set of R2C shifters last week, and had to gush about them here. When I first heard about these, I figured they were no more than a useless gimmick. But the more I thought about it, the more they seemed to offer something new. Specifically, they accomplish the following:
Hands are never obstructed by a lever in its extreme positionShifting is much easier, because you never have to move your hands out of position
Now, these are the benefits that SRAM and Zipp are already advertising, but once you have actually tried the shifters out, you get a feel for how big a difference it actually is. I’m definitely not going back to traditional bar-end shifters ever again. They just feel right. Others have talked about the levers being a bit stiff, or difficult to shift. When I first pulled them out of the box, before mounting them, they felt a bit that way. So I applied some WD40 to the main shift index rachet. You can access this ratchet by unscrewing the 4mm hex bolt (the one you have to unscrew anyway when you install the shifters). On their first couple rides, the shifters loosened up quite nicely, and I can now shift using just a thumb or index finger.
I mounted them using some customized JagWire BarCon 2.0 mounts. Note that the Jagwire units will NOT work out of the box, and will damage the R2C if you try to mount them up. I had to do quite a bit of machining to get them to fit. The problem is that they’re designed for the regular TT shifters, which have a smaller diameter body. I also sanded off the logos, and re-applied clear coat. I generally don’t like logos, especially on the one component I’m going to be looking at all the time. I’d rather just see the lovely glint of the unidirectional carbon fiber.
Here they are aboard my 2001 Trek TTT (kept the logos; this bike is a piece of history), and a set of Felt Bayonet handlebars (haven’t had time to remove logos yet). The F-Bends are awesome, by the way.
Thanks for the review. I decided to go with the Zipp R2C’s to avoid replacing my rear derailleur. The shifting is still very stiff so I’ll try lubing the internals.
One further benefit is being able to see the current gear selection from the aero position.
Don’t like logos yet you plaster every single photo with one of your own, and after you mentioned you kept the Trek logos because you think they’re a part of history. Interesting.
I thought also at first but think he was thinking more of the USPS team bike. But then I would have kept it original or at least saved the parts that came off. Which he probably did.
I said that I “generally don’t like logos.” But I think MY logo is amazing But in all seriousness, it’s not only a form of advertising, but a theft deterrent. I’ve had images stolen from me before and used commercially; stamping makes that a little harder. And of course, the prints and digitals that my clients receive are all stamp-free. Really, it’s not so much that I hate logos on bikes, but that I much prefer the stealth look.
Regarding any other Trek/USPS stuff that came on the bike, there was none. I got it as a frame only (no fork even).
Anyway, back to the R2C. I did think that it would be helpful to be able to see my gearing from the aero position, but honestly, the little hash marks are too small for me to be able to distinguish quickly at a glance. It’s quicker to look back at my cassette or chainrings.
My review of my R2C shifters which I’ve had on my P4 for a couple of months now … the right one for the rear derailleur gets an A+. The left one for the front I give an F … along with the SRAM front derailleurs I tried to make work with it (tried two of 'em).
But I’m with you on the right/rear setup. It’s truly awesome. I have a hybrid setup … SRAM R2C for the rear and Shimano DuraAce for the front. It works out great.
Yeah, I read your post in the other thread. It’s a shame – I really think you should have another go at it. My front works without any issue, and it’s really nice to have both shifters pointing forward all the time. If the front didn’t work, that’d be a huge PITA.
There’s no point in having another go at it. SRAM has already told me that the front shifter isn’t working properly and I should send it back. I can’t send it back without sending both. Re-doing shifters and re-running cables on the P4 is such a HUGE pain in the ass that it’s not worth it to me and quite a number of bike shop owners and pro mechanics have told me that the SRAM front derailleur is such junk that it’s also part of the problem. (I’ve tried the SRAM front shifter with a Shimano front derailleur and it doesn’t work, either.) So that part’s Shimano. It works. And you’re absolutely right that the rear shifting with the R2C and my SRAM Red rear derailleur is a thing of beauty.
Now, these are the benefits that SRAM and Zipp are already advertising, but once you have actually tried the shifters out, you get a feel for how big a difference it actually is.
Can’t see the images as your image host is blocked here at work but I presume you are using the R2C shifters with SRAM deraileurs? I ask because I have the Shimano compatible shifters and try as I might, I am unable to get the rear deraileur to shift properly through the entire range of rear cogs. I can trim/tune it to work with lower 3-4 cogs or upper 3-4 cogs, but not all 10 and may have to call Zipp to see what they say.
I am using the ones that SRAM sells (with the razor-looking shift paddles), and yes, I’m using with a SRAM rear derailleur. My front derailleur is actually a Shimano, but it works fine.
I am using the ones that SRAM sells (with the razor-looking shift paddles), and yes, I’m using with a SRAM rear derailleur. My front derailleur is actually a Shimano, but it works fine.
Which Shimano derailleur are you using on the front? I have these shifters too and recently had problems with the SRAM deraulleur during a race. I had the bike at the LBS on Monday and they were at it for 3 hours trying to get it to shift properly again. They finally got it, but if it acts up again, I’m gonna make a switch.
My review of my R2C shifters which I’ve had on my P4 for a couple of months now … the right one for the rear derailleur gets an A+. The left one for the front I give an F … along with the SRAM front derailleurs I tried to make work with it (tried two of 'em).
But I’m with you on the right/rear setup. It’s truly awesome. I have a hybrid setup … SRAM R2C for the rear and Shimano DuraAce for the front. It works out great.
What exactly were the issues you were having with the front derailleurs? I have the R2C and SRAM derailleurs also and up until recently, they were working great. Then this past Sunday during a race after shifting into the small ring the front would not get back into the large. grrrrr . . . extremely aggravated I was.
I have the Sram R2C shifters on my Specialized S-Works Transition and have grown to really like them. One thing maybe you can help me with, both shifters seem to be loose in that they both rotate on the aero bars. I tried to tighten them to no avail. I have HED Blackdog aero bars. Is there a trick to tighten them down so they don’t rotate?
I have the Sram R2C shifters on my Specialized S-Works Transition and have grown to really like them. One thing maybe you can help me with, both shifters seem to be loose in that they both rotate on the aero bars. I tried to tighten them to no avail. I have HED Blackdog aero bars. Is there a trick to tighten them down so they don’t rotate?
I know my brake levers have shims on them, otherwise they wouldn’t tighten properly in the basebar. Have you tried using a set of these shims for your shift levers? Maybe the inner diameter of the Blackdogs is just a tad more than the R2Cs handle?
Can you explain exactly what these shims are. Does Sram make them or maybe I could just wrap some tape around to increase the diameter of the aero bar.
Did you pull off the shift lever and tighten the wedge with an allen key (per the instructions)? I couldn’t get mine to tighten, so I had to pull the direcitons off the website, and once I read how to do this, mine have been solid. Be careful you pull off the correct side of the shifter. One side is to access the bolt to tighten, the other side (wrong side) will open up the ratchet mechanism, which could cause some big problems.
No, I will pull the directions from the internet to make sure I don’t open the rachet side. With my luck I will do that and mess everything up. Thanks, I will try that tonight.
No, I will pull the directions from the internet to make sure I don’t open the rachet side. With my luck I will do that and mess everything up. Thanks, I will try that tonight.
Great, thanks, got it and reviewed it, seems simple. Have to make sure I take off the 4mm screw and not the 5mm adjustment screw on the body of the lever. This is my first time with sram, all my other bikes have/had shimano dura ace. I have to say that at first I was very skepital but over the past tow months I have grown to really like the R2C and indeed the entire Red Group.
Then this past Sunday during a race after shifting into the small ring the front would not get back into the large. grrrrr . . . extremely aggravated I was.
After finally resolving the shifting issues with my shimano compatible R2C shifters, I learned that cables need to be in good condition and that the slightest bit of contamination will result in increased friction in the cables and degrade shifting performance.
But in all seriousness, it’s not only a form of advertising, but a theft deterrent. I’ve had images stolen from me before and used commercially; stamping makes that a little harder. And of course, the prints and digitals that my clients receive are all stamp-free. Really, it’s not so much that I hate logos on bikes, but that I much prefer the stealth look.