*Disclaimer - I am not a mechanic and barely mechanically inclined, so go easy on me…
Been talking through upgrading my 2019 Cervelo P2 (rim brake) from mechanical to Di2. A friend is gonna help.
Anyone on here done it and have any advice/things they wish they knew? I dont see why this isn’t possible. Am I wrong?
It seems hard to find a whole groupset (TT specific). I may call a few places to see if they can/would swap out road bike shifters for bar end shifters in their groupset.
What size wires would I need (I’m certain I wont measure properly)
Last question that I have for now, is would i need grommets to keep the wires tight (I think I do) and what size and where would I get those (assume internet purchase would be easy enough but asking anyway)?
There are many challenges and the biggest question is ‘why’. As in going DI2 won’t get you any speed benefit, and will cost you $$$$$. Ok, I’ve just moved 10sp metchanical to full new Di2 hydro disc and the one thing I really like is being able to change gear from base bars, but I equally am hating the syncro shift you end up having to use (12sp).
So some challenges you have. At moment only bar end shifters are the 11sp, and whilst those are one of the few items that can work with 12sp, you’d need to connect them to the comms module to get the latest firmware installed before it will recognise.
Not sure about cable routeing on the p2 - where are you mounting the battery and then running the cables to the shifters/mech.
Honestly, the cost of components means if you do want to do this then buying a new bike is a serious consideration in value terms. I accept that if you’re well stocked with a range of rim brake race wheels that may mean the cost isn’t as comparable, but then I still come back to the cost of going to Di2 over the benefits.
Oh, in terms of what you need, look at the bettershifting website - has several really handy guides for you.
Don’t even think about buying the parts from a local bike shop. Complete ripoff.
So if he doesn’t buy from LBS, out of interest how would you recommend updating the bar end shifters when they arrive to the required firmware to be able to connect to the mechs/battery?
It started with just upgrading to ultegra or DA mechanical. Someone said if you’re gonna upgrade…
I really like my bike and dont imagine myself doing this for many more years so a new bike seems silly (but then so does di2 by that logic).
No bike shop for sure. I have an opportunity to buy a barely used rim brake tarmac (very cheaply) from a friend and stripping it down for the di2 and only needing to buy 2 more wires, a junction box B, bar end shifters and grommets. I could then sell the tarmac frame or buy a road bike di2 groupset which seem easier to find.
Likely sticking to 11 speed and piece-mealing it through ebay and such.
Ok, more sensible. So you’d still need the shifters and then additional sprint buttons to add to your base bars for the second shift position. You’d be botching it a bit to avoid buying new brake levers with the buttons integrated but should be fine.
But has your friend added the bluetooth unit to the bike so you can connect and update the settings? Otherwise you’d want/need one of those. (WU-111).
If you’re not adding the base shifters you are literally spending money for no reason at all.
I did it about a year ago on my road bike - went from 10 speed mechanical to 11 speed Di2. By the time I’d added the Bluetooth unit, the bar end junction box, the climb shifters it ended up far more expensive than I had estimated and I wished I hadn’t bothered. And then I rode it for a bit and I was so glad I bothered. I enjoy riding the bike with di2 way more than with mechanical. I also enjoyed the experience of doing it (I do all my own mechanics including bleeding MTB brakes/basic servicing of suspension) but had never dealt with di2 so it was a cool learning experience. I bought as much stuff second hand as I could find over a couple of months and then added the few things new that I couldn’t find.
I presume you’ve already discounted going for the much easier to install sram wireless system? I was contemplating which electronic set-up to add to my TT bike to make adjusting the front end a lot easier since I was going to be doing a lot of aerotesting. One rear derailleur, a pair of wireless blips and a pair of blip holders from leap components. Job done in 5 mins. Relatively cheaply too… No wires, blip boxes etc…
I would not do it.
The whole purpose (for me) of electronic shifting is to be more simple, there is no way I would change a mechanical groupset to go for a wired electronic groupset.
I bought sram wireless blips and derailleurs, and for the mechanical part(cassette, chain, crankset) I went shimano. No more wires, no need to change the HUB, took me something like an hour to set it.
I started looking on ebay yesterday for exactly what you just described and that price would be great. I didnt see a full set but lots of compenents that I could piece together and make work, but I’d prefer a full set.
Prior I had been looking for new at retailers.
I check the classifieds here occasionally. Is this something that goes up for sale regularly or would this be few and far between?
I guess I just need to start hawking ebay at this point. (if i dont take it all off the tarmac)
Don’t even think about buying the parts from a local bike shop. Complete ripoff.
So if he doesn’t buy from LBS, out of interest how would you recommend updating the bar end shifters when they arrive to the required firmware to be able to connect to the mechs/battery?
I would first try using the battery charger to connect them to your PC.
I would not do it.
The whole purpose (for me) of electronic shifting is to be more simple, there is no way I would change a mechanical groupset to go for a wired electronic groupset.
I bought sram wireless blips and derailleurs, and for the mechanical part(cassette, chain, crankset) I went shimano. No more wires, no need to change the HUB, took me something like an hour to set it.
What SRAM derailleurs did you use for this? My understanding is that SRAM derailleurs need to use the flattop chain, which require the SRAM cassette. So then you need to also change the freehub body. Is there a SRAM derailleur that is compatible with a Shimano 12 speed chain and cassette?
Hi, to go the cheapest yet fastest setup possible, I bought :
sram rival front and rear deraileurs
sram wireless blips
shimano ultegra crankset r8100 , 12s
Shimano duraace chain, 12s
shimano ultegra 12s cassette
That way, I did not need to change the freehub or the botton bracket.
To be honnest, I do not feel good relying on the wireless blips. I will buy a second pair and put them on the hoods to make sure that I have a backup solution during races.
This setup has been working very well, but I only have been using it for 4 months.
I would not do it.
The whole purpose (for me) of electronic shifting is to be more simple, there is no way I would change a mechanical groupset to go for a wired electronic groupset.
I bought sram wireless blips and derailleurs, and for the mechanical part(cassette, chain, crankset) I went shimano. No more wires, no need to change the HUB, took me something like an hour to set it.
What SRAM derailleurs did you use for this? My understanding is that SRAM derailleurs need to use the flattop chain, which require the SRAM cassette. So then you need to also change the freehub body. Is there a SRAM derailleur that is compatible with a Shimano 12 speed chain and cassette?
the apex cassettes fit on 11-speed freehubs. you still need a flat-top chain though
U could also ditch the front derailleur and go 1X, save some $$. Also have a look at 2nd hand bikes, might be cheaper to find an old bike with electronic rather than buying a 2nd hand groupset, the latter seem to be going for stupid money.
I believe changing from mechanical shifting to electronic is the best bike upgrade anyone can do. Mostly being able to shift from the levers not just the aerobars. It’s also pretty easy to do on your own.
Shimano sells Di2 frame grommets in a couple diameters.
Figure out where you will put the junction box and wire layout. I’m sure the manual of the Di2 version of your bike will show this. Measure the length of wire needed with a string from the component to the either the junction box or battery then add a couple inches.
Don’t get 12 speed, stay with 11 speed. You can easily find a used but in good condition Di2 RD and FD. Finding TT brake levers and aerobar shifters should also not be too difficult. I would buy new wires and battery/charger. Make sure to get a Shimano wire connector tool.
Finally watch some videos on how to route the wires and buy a Di2 wire routing kit. If you keep the existing shifter cable in the frame but remove the housing you can attach the Di2 wire at one end and snake it easily through the frame.
Initially adjustment of the Di2 FD and RD is much easier than mechanical in my opinion and forever shifts flawlessly.
Can you guys tell me morre about the sram set up. I can keep most shimano compenents? I’m a touch confused.
I bought a rear force axs derailleur and 2 wireless blips, and as mentioned previously the leap components blip holders. That was all I required, and I run it with an ultegra 12spd cassette and Ultegra 12 spd chain with no issues so far (9 months of use). Literally took 5 mins to install, no faffing with connection boxes, correct wire length, hiding wires/boxes etc etc…