Question about the Quarq power meters - Riken, Elsa, Red…I am ready to buy one and I don’t care if it measures left vs right leg power, etc. I just want an entry level power meter that won’t cost me an arm and a leg.
Sounds like the Riken will do the job right? But I also have a SRAM Red cassette so how does this work into the equation? DO I need to buy a new SRAM RED Cassette that has the quarq integrated into the interface or can I just buy the Riken and have my LBS put it on my current SRAM RED cassette?
The Riken will do everything you need. Generally, what crank you use is completely independent of the rest of the drive train - though some manufacturers will claim that shifting quality will be lower when mixing different groups. I’ve never really noticed. I’ve got a Riken on the road bike - it measures power. So I like it.
mine were to finicky with how I used them at races, ie warm up on training wheel, well then the pt was too warm from being in the car and would give bad data from time to time
.
Why do you think the power tap is better? I only use my zip 808s for races and training wheels for training. So I’d rather know what my power is during both training and races, that’s my dilemma. How do you overcome this?
I like that you get speed and power without having to add any magnets or sensors or wires anywhere
I think it has less problems with drift and a better auto-zero mechanism
On the other hand, a quarq does not interfere with wheel selection, and is not subject to error due to the state of your chain.
Why do you think the power tap is better? I only use my zip 808s for races and training wheels for training. So I’d rather know what my power is during both training and races, that’s my dilemma. How do you overcome this?
Yes this is exactly what I meant, no troll question, just learning here. So I have to switch out the chain rings - the part that says SRAM Red on it? But the functionality from my SRAM red will be the same (if I buy an Elsa, Riken) except for the crankarm?
Will I have any components left from my SRAM RED kit to sell after installing the quarq?
I feel like by installing anything other than a SRAM RED (ELSA, Riken) I’ll be downgrading a bit, is this true or is the only difference once these are installed the crank arm?
Yes this is exactly what I meant, no troll question, just learning here. So I have to switch out the chain rings - the part that says SRAM Red on it?
If you have SRAM Red Exogram crankset then installing those chainrings on a Riken will leave the chain drop catcher exposed. Notice that the Exogram crank has a hidden chainring bolt (you can only see 4 instead of 5 bolts). There is a stub on the chainring behind the crankarm to stop the chain jamming between chainring and arm.
I took the SRAM chainrings off my Quarq Red so I had to file down the drop stop. If you want to use the current Red chainrings on a Riken you will have to do the same thing. If you have the older red crank with no hidden bolt then this is not a problem.
I feel like by installing anything other than a SRAM RED (ELSA, Riken) I’ll be downgrading a bit, is this true or is the only difference once these are installed the crank arm?
Don’t fret about it - you’re upgrading massively by putting a powermeter on (in terms of overall functional performance) and you’re highly unlikely to notice any shifting difference. Probably better to fit a Riken as supplied and sell the Red cranks complete.
Ok stupid question for you guys I’m sure. But how do I figure out how long my current crank arm is (to buy the new power meter?) I have a 53 39 10 SPD but not sure if the crank arm is 170, 172.5??
Buy a Riken and purchase a set of SRAM Yaw non hidden bolt chainrings to go with it if you have 2013 SRAM Red components (which include the 2013 shifters and Yaw front derailleur). You can then sell the chainrings that come on the Riken, as well as your existing SRAM Red crankset. You may want to keep the crankset so that you’ll have a spare to use in case there is ever a need to send the Quarq in for service.
Those are good tips, how do I figure out if my current SRAM red crank is a GXP or BB30? Is there anywhere in particular where I can look?
If it’s GXP you will see the external bearing cups on the outside of each side of the bottom bracket, which are the grey things in this picture:
BB30 won’t have anything there since the bearings are hidden inside the bottom bracket shell. The non-driveside crank arm will basically be right up against the bike’s BB (there may be a spacer or wave washer; I forget which side they go on – but definitely nothing big like those bearing cups above).
