Guys can anyone confirm compatibility of BCP 110 and BCP 130 for the rotor Q-Rings - in some places it says that battery comaprtment prevents from installation. But then again I have seen them on Dzero in a few places
It can be done but might require a bit of work with a dremel or file to get clearance for the battery compartment. I’ve modified a few rings and it’s not too complicated.
I switch back n forth from round to Q’s on both Elsa and DZero with no issues. No issue with Q or QXL either.
yes i have elsa and it works fine - but dzero change the compartment - can i assume you have bcd 130?
Yes, Both are 130
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Your power numbers are not going to be accurate with q rings.
as long as they are consistent i am fine
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sorry do you mind telling me the number of teeth on your rotor - 53?
Guys can anyone confirm compatibility of BCP 110 and BCP 130 for the rotor Q-Rings - in some places it says that battery comaprtment prevents from installation. But then again I have seen them on Dzero in a few places
You have two options. As mentioned before, dremel. It is easiest to use a cutting disk. You just make three quick cuts and takes about 2 minutes. Option two is to remove the battery battery casing, install the rings and then re-install the battery casing. It uses a small Torx head. This works, but probably isn’t recommended by Quarq.
Thanks Kevin - and can you confirm its the same for bcd 110 as well as 130?
also u think i have to cut a bit out - or does filinng a little of th ering thinner would do?
Thanks Kevin - and can you confirm its the same for bcd 110 as well as 130?
also u think i have to cut a bit out - or does filinng a little of th ering thinner would do?
That is only for 110 bcd. For 130 BCD it’s not an issue as the battery case doesn’t get in the way.
You can file, but it’s going to take a long time. See this link for an example of what you have to do. It is possible depending on your ring and which model that you’ll also need to make a horizontal cut depending on which position you choose, etc.
One more thing I just remembered. There is a small bump that needs to be accounted for even if you took off the battery cover to install the cranks. That one you could file, but it’s easier to just dremel as shown in the picture I linked to.
thanks much appreciated - went with 130 bcp
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Your power numbers are not going to be accurate with q rings.
How far off do you expect them to be?
I ask because I use Rotor Q rings on my tri bike and road bike. Tri bike has a Quarq dzero PM, road bike uses Powertap G3 hub. I ride both on a Wahoo Kickr regularly. The power numbers don’t seem that far off when I compare the data from different sources.
Maybe it is because I am too weak to get to the power level where there will be a discrepancy.
as long as they are consistent i am fine
Are you confident they would be consistent?
i ve been using it for 5 years on quarq elsa - so yes i can confirm they are consistent.
I am about to build up my wife´s bike with this set up (already ordered the parts) but have seen comments elsewhere about accuracy issues. When you say consistent, do you mean consistent over the years and from ride to ride? What about at different cadences? Have you ever compared it to another power meter (i.e. Power Tap)? I wouldn’t be too concerned if it’s off by a certain percentage across the board, but if it’s not linear then I can see it being an issue…
it is consistent from ride to ride and over the years, be it indoors or outside. I use it with Tacx neo and it is very consitent vs tacx neo power.
I used to have huge issues with hiplfexors - when i moved to rotor stopped having them.
i ve been using it for 5 years on quarq elsa - so yes i can confirm they are consistent.
Do you think the consistency is… well, consistent enough to allow use of a Q-ring on one Quarq and regular round rings on another?
If I knew my PM was going to be always off by 3%, I could just do the math in my head.