Thoughts on this bike . . . Just curious if it’s a decent deal?
not unless you absolutely, positively must have titanium. Even then I’d say no. 9 speed is old as balls.
do you think 10 year old ti is fatigued and not structuraly sound anymore?
structurally I think the frame is fine (unless its been wrecked of course)
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The frame should be fine; titanium is pretty much bombproof.
The frame has older components (and a mis-mash at that), plus you have 2001 technology (9sp, non-integrated headset, std BB, etc.), and the frame is none too aero.
As the PP stated, unless you have to have a Ti frame I’d pass, plus $1000 for 2001 technology is a bit steep (note the lack of bidders).
I had always liked the tiphoon, but the later verisons of it.
and i agree with a lot of the other posters that $1000 for a used bikes with 2001 tech is kinda pricey.
For the frame, maybe. I love ti frames – love the ride, the look, the feel… But I’m wondering if that has a 1" steerer. If so, your choices on a replacement fork (when the time comes) will be very limited. All mine are 1", and I’m dreading the day I have to replace the Kestrel fork.
I have to disagree with most people here. This frame is an American made titanium beauty (with 700c wheels?) and solid triathlon geometry. The 1" fork diameter is difficult but not impossible to find in aero carbon… but that 1" diameter is more aero than 1-1/8 would be on this frame. It looks to have just been tuned up (new cables) and will be very easy to work on, adjust and travel with. Have you ever traveled with a nice carbon frame only to have TSA damage it? Have you ever dented an aluminum frame? This is American titanium! You can train and race on this frame and just beat the crap out of it and it will look and perform the same a decade from now. It will probably also sell for $1000 or more when you’re done. The external headset cups are a bonus for durability (internal headsets cups that are damaged mean the frame is trashed!) and there is absolutely nothing wrong with the component selection. It looks to have octalink and many of us well informed “old timers” still feel that is superior to the newer bb technology of today. I’m not going to debate this all day long and try to justify my position with those of you who want to argue. This is just my opinion based on racing since 1989, working as a bike mechanic and owning well over 50 triathlon bikes over the years. I say $1000 is a fair price and if anything my only concern would be what looks to be the most updated piece of equipemnt (the Profile bars) which had a tendency to be less reliable back in the 90’s. What else can you get on for $1000 that you know won’t hold you back? There are very few things with this durability and style.
I agree with NYSLIM. I wanted a Tiphoon for years but the price was steep! I ended getting a great deal on QR’s last year of titanium in 2008, the QROO Lucero Ti. The geometry is more aggressive in the newer Tiphoons (I believe) and Lucero Ti. I know that the Tiphoons used to have a 76 degree seat angle vs the Lucero Ti’s 78 from the factory. But I can see the FF Seatpost so you’re all good. Like what was mentioned before, the bike really won’t be holding you back (If you get fitted) and if you buy it and don’t like it, you will probably get all of your money back. Well most of it. I wanted a tiphoon because it could be double duty as a road or tt bike. 76 degrees with a set back post and a forward post puts you in road or tt position. Maybe not absolutely ideal. But the good thing about this Tiphoon is it’s pre aero seatpost so finding a setback or forward post is a lot easier.
I don’t know if I agree with the whole “titanium ride quality” because I’ve used a carbon Lucero and a titanium lucero for Ironman Az in 2009 and 2011 and I felt about the same on both. My trainer bike is a Nashbar Aluminum Frame and I feel I’m more comfortable on that with an aluminum seatpost. So go figure. Could be a fit issue, I don’t know. The thing I love about titanium is you don’t have to worry about scratching it up because scotch brite pads take it out.
I’m pretty sure that bike has external cables so recabling would be a 15-20 minute job. No fishing cables through the frame. No special tools needed for this bike other than standard bike tools. That’s a big plus.
I would agree. I have a QR Typhoon with SRAM 10-speed Force (just upgraded it last year). It is solid & should I ever go to Europe for a bike trip (doubt it), I’d take this bike with me. It is now my backup bike as I just got a P3 in 2010, but the QR has been in many IM races & done so providing lots of comfort. If you like a slightly softer feel from the road this will do the trick. I had to order a new fork after Kona one year (from QR), because a shop there didn’t torque it except by hand (too much btw). They put it together & it sure wasn’t cracked (steerer post) when it was packed/unpacked & taken to them. Anyhow, this is a great bike & it will last longer than your other bikes. The welds on this thing are beautiful & thanks to Slowman for creating the company in the first place. It has been my favorite bike of all my bikes…until I got the P3. But the P3 has nothing on the Ti for durability. In fact, my QR has taken me to faster splits for Oly AND IM racing than the P3.
I would wait for a litespeed blade. Now that is a badass bike.
I have this bike. I rode it at IMC in 2010 and would still be riding it for tri if I hadn’t gotten a gig as a QR rep. I love that bike and couldn’t bring myself to sell it so it now does duty as a Fixie.
It’s not as aero as the new Carbon super bikes (but not as bad as some either) and rides like a dream. For another couple hundred bucks in parts you can have a 10s bike that will be great for you, not that there is really anything wrong with 9s anyway.
Solid bike.
For the frame, maybe. I love ti frames – love the ride, the look, the feel… But I’m wondering if that has a 1" steerer. If so, your choices on a replacement fork (when the time comes) will be very limited. All mine are 1", and I’m dreading the day I have to replace the Kestrel fork.
As I recall this frame has a 1 1/8 steerer tube.
Verified here.