So I have wide hips, no child-bearing, though.
On one bike I have a q-factor of 146mm, and on the other it is 151mm. I notice an decent bump in power with the wider cranks. Both cranksets have SRMs and I measured on the same short climb. Don’t ask for numbers!
Am I nuts or on to something? Would 5mm make a big difference?
bump
.
Seeing that no one is jumping in on this question. I will bite.
While I am typical dimensions (guy with rather average hips), I could see 5 mm making a difference. Moreover, I would defer to the “if it feels right to you, go with it”, justification. All riders are by far not the same, so it would make sense to me that you naturally feel more comfortable with a wider Q-factor. Of course it is convenient for manufacturers to keep as much component configurations as standard as possible. So while Shimano (and others) vary crank arm length, they all tend to provide pedals with the same pedal axle length (and therefore same Q-factor).
One pedal system that is very friendly to varying axle lengths is Keywin pedals. When you order the pedals, you have to choose the axle length as well. So making choosing one to provide a wider Q-factor is no problem at all.
If you want to test on a trainer, you could try to put a 2 mm washer between each pedal and crank interface. Note that I say use on trainer. The washer(s) will reduce the amount of thread engagement with the aluminum crank arm and increase the chance for threads to strip. So just use this method to ‘test’ out different Q-factors before you invest $100 in a pedal system.
Hope this helps.
You’re not nuts. If wider works better for you… go wide. Q-factor is largely self-selected and there isn’t necessarily a hard and fast rule of “X width is best for everyone”. We don’t all have the same width hips, same muscle balance/imbalances, history of injuries, etc. You can space out your pedals on the ‘narrow’ bike with pedal washers (usually 1mm each - but I wouldn’t go more than two per pedal). Or if you want to go really wide, you could look at Shimano’s new long-spindle pedals, or these:
Greg
Was just searching ST for general articles, found one on Stance Width by Dan. Per this article, my description of Q-factor is incorrect. Just about all cranks from a given manufacturer will have the same Q-factor. But the Stance, as Dan describes is really what you care about. This could be adjusted.
I am all for trying out new things, so go for it. Let me know if you want help. I could source some washers that would fit at different widths.
Stance Width
Written by: Dan Empfield
Date: Mon Feb 06 2012
So I have wide hips, no child-bearing, though.
On one bike I have a q-factor of 146mm, and on the other it is 151mm. I notice an decent bump in power with the wider cranks. Both cranksets have SRMs and I measured on the same short climb. Don’t ask for numbers!
Am I nuts or on to something? Would 5mm make a big difference?
Not nuts at all. I am a thin narrow hipped guy and have been riding on fairly standard cranks and pedals for years. I have noticed that I felt like my feet were too close together and did not feel like I was getting good power transfer to pedals. I also always felt like my right foot should be outboard a few mm or so than my left. This has actually prevented me from being comfortable on some pedal systems with a narrow stance. I have always felt more comfortable on mountain bike than road bike from standpoint of stance width. Tried some washers on the road pedals. Liked it. Recently switched to 56 mm speedplay and feel more comfortable on the bike (especially right leg) than I have in years. I am a bit asymettrical and can now sit more squarely in the saddle when in the past I shift a few mm to the left to make the right leg feel better. I do have my right cleat set so the foot is outboard as far as it can go, and the left foot is more centered. That is just me - I am different left to right.
If you ever see bow legged cyclists on road bikes, notice how they are less bow legged when they are on their mountain bikes. Yep - wider stance width brings the knees in a bit. If you are knock kneed or have significant overpronation issues, a wide stance width can make that a lot worse so keep that in mind.
Good luck.
I see this ALL THE TIME.
Nice to hear it from someone else.
Thanks for the all the replies. I’m stocking up on pedal washers!
If you are knock kneed or have significant overpronation issues, a wide stance width can make that a lot worse so keep that in mind.
Good luck.
Bingo. It has been my experience that the biggest gains from adjusting stance width are really from reducing the lateral and angular movements of the leg.
If you are knock kneed or have significant overpronation issues, a wide stance width can make that a lot worse so keep that in mind.
Good luck.
Bingo. It has been my experience that the biggest gains from adjusting stance width are really from reducing the lateral and angular movements of the leg.
Agreed. I will go so far as to say I think this is possibly more effective than using wedges.
Sounds like parts of this article will help clear up some of the comments.
http://www.bikefit.com/s-13-road-bikes.aspx#Feet
Stance width and wedging are two different issues.
However ideal stance width is not always possible. When stance width falls short wedging is usually needed.
Swifty, others Is there an easy and consistent way to accurately measure stance width at home? I know that some of my bikes feel better than others but have not figured out a way to document the stance width of each. Thought about removing and rotating the left crank arm 180 degrees to measure but have not pursued it that far yet. Thanks. David K
Not nuts at all. I used to always feel to narrow on a road bike. My feet barely cleared the cranks, I always felt like I was pushing on the outside of my shoes, etc.
Strated with spacers. Moved to Speedplay pedals with longer spindles. This helped but the Speedpaly pedals were so bad that I had to move to something else.
I ended up with Look pedals with an aftermarket axle that is 6.5mm wider than stock. These work great for me.
I am glad to see that Shimano will be offering pedals that are 4mm wider than stock.
Like others have said, I was always more comfortable on my mountain bike (that is wider).
Not nuts at all. I used to always feel to narrow on a road bike. My feet barely cleared the cranks, I always felt like I was pushing on the outside of my shoes, etc.
Strated with spacers. Moved to Speedplay pedals with longer spindles. This helped but the Speedpaly pedals were so bad that I had to move to something else.
I ended up with Look pedals with an aftermarket axle that is 6.5mm wider than stock. These work great for me.
I am glad to see that Shimano will be offering pedals that are 4mm wider than stock.
Like others have said, I was always more comfortable on my mountain bike (that is wider).
Do you have any information on the Shimano pedals with the longer pedal spindle? I could not find any in the usual places.
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/shimano-dura-ace-9000-34009/
56mm instead of 52
.
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/article/shimano-dura-ace-9000-34009/
56mm instead of 52
Thank you!
Put your trainer in front of a miror - draw a vertical line on it
adjust the bike so the line intersect the toe
if the knee is in - move foot in
if the knee is outside the line move the foot out
or
have a friend watch
or
video
or buy a laser
all work and all are CHEAP but it is important.
Swifty, you are a genius! How did you ever come about inventing the wedge?
A friend and I chatted about how pedals and shoes wore out at an angle. He wanted to put in a big block like piece with an angle. I wanted it as thin as possible. So my initial input was to make it thin. Second was how to address various tilt or angle. We little money we made them stackable rather than make several with various angles.
Thanks for asking
Sounds like parts of this article will help clear up some of the comments.
http://www.bikefit.com/s-13-road-bikes.aspx#Feet
Stance width and wedging are two different issues.
However ideal stance width is not always possible. When stance width falls short wedging is usually needed.
Correct. Traditionally stance width has not been a readily adjustable part of the clipless pedal design. Speedplay is the first to really address this as an independent aspect of fit. Time, Look, Shimano all have a small degree of adjustability, or float built in to work around this, but not enough for people that need it. Taking wedges, arch support, shoe design out of the equation, you can take a valgus knee and improve it by moving shoe medially, and take a varus knee and improve it by widening stance width by moving shoe laterally. Is that correct?
Is your protocol to first address knee alignment with medial and lateral foot positioning through cleat set-up, changing stance width with washers or different pedal spindle length? What do you do if this forces them to sit askew on their saddle? Compromise? Do you then use wedges to ensure appropriate foot to pedal interface and pressure distribution?
Thanks.