I’m after a new wheelset for my TT setup. From my limited research, seems like a lot of manufacturers sell the wheels without addition of a cassette. This makes sense but it begs the question, once I’ve purchased the wheelset, what else do I need to buy to make it rideable? I’m guessing just a cassette? Then how do I add the cassette to the wheel? Groupset will be shimano. Cheers in advance.
You just need to make sure that you buy a wheelset whose rear wheel has a Shimano compatible hub. The wheelset spec will tell you what type of hub it is.
Then you’ll need a tube, tire, and cassette. If you want to put the cassette on yourself, you’ll need a crescent wrench and a lockring tool like this:
tires, tube, rim strips/rim tape (usually comes with though), cassette, chain whip, cassette lock-ring tool, pliers
(The lockring tool, chainwhip, and pliers for for cassette installation and removal. You could have your LBS do it but it’ll be much much much more convenient if you just buy them yourself. You’ll be surprised how often you remove your cassette. You’ll also find that you clean it more.)
You need about 20mm of valve sticking out from the wheel. So, if you buy a normal wheel, a standard 40mm valve is fine.
If the wheel is 60mm deep, you can either get a tube with a 80mm valve or a normal 40mm valve and a 40mm extender. If you get extenders, you will also need a roll of teflon tape (about a buck at any hardware store).
One thing not mentioned are new brake pads. If you are going to carbon rims, you will need to install carbon specific pads. Many carbon wheels come with carbon pads but you should confirm. If you are not comfortable swapping them out, that is another item for your mechanic.
Most new wheels come with rim tape, but you usually have to install it (easy) and skewers but it is worth confirming this so you know if you have to buy one or the other. Rim tape is cheap but a decent set of skewers can easily end up costing you $30-$40 or up so while it is rare for them not to be included it is worth confirming.
I am mechanically inept. However even I can put on and take off a cassette with the tools mentioned by other posters. The first time I did this was when I bought a new set of wheels. I watched a youtube video and put the new cassette on in under 5 minutes.
If you buy a cassette that is the same size (same number of teeth) your chain length will not need adjusting. However if you feel that you need a harder and/or easier gear buy a cassette to match your requirements. If it is a small change from your current cassette your chain should be fine. If it is a large change you may need to take out links or get a longer chain. Again this is easy to do, particularly if you use a KMC quick link.
If your current chain isn’t relatively new, you are going to want to get a new chain when you get a new cassette…either that or switch the cassette from your current wheel.
A nice supportive thread to a legitimate question and enter asshat!
What asshat a.k.a. jimatbeyond is likely referring to is that he doesn’t think you should use pliers on the cassette lock ring removal tool, better to use the appropriate sized wrench or adjustable Crescent wrench.
My apologies Jim if I am reading this wrong, but you seem pretty consistent with your replies…too much effort to be productive I guess.
I think it was actually a legit question. My lockring tool has a built in handle. When I read the post I thought the exact same thing - what are the pliers for? Never occurred to me that some lockring tools need a separate set of pliers.
I am really sorry, but I have no idea how pliers would be used to help remove or install a cassette, so I asked the question.
As much as I hate to agree with you, I agree with you
If the derailleur needs adjustment, which it generally shouldn’t. You’d use a screwdriver for the limit screws and an allen key for the cable clamp. A pliers is a very poor way to turn the locking tool. Assuming it’s the type in the link posted earlier with no integrated handle, you just need a wrench (standard, adjustable, whatever) but not a pliers.
Oh, just realised in the US a vice grips is referred to as a locking pliers. You could get away with one of those I suppose but a wrench is much better.
You need pliers or a cresent wrench to hold the lockring tool. When removing the cassette you are working two levers, the chainwhip and the wrench/pliers
You need pliers or a cresent wrench to hold the lockring tool. When removing the cassette you are working two levers, the chainwhip and the wrench/pliers
Thanks. I had forgotten about using a wrench for the lockring tool. Probably because I bought the crombie from Abbey Tool Works when they first came out. Really like it.
When I think of pliers, I think of needle nose or lineman’s pliers because that is what I have in my toolbox. I couldn’t imagine how they could be used on a lockring tool.
I looked up pliers and found many other types. Which type would you recommend for a lockring tool?
When I think of pliers, I think of needle nose or lineman’s pliers because that is what I have in my toolbox. I couldn’t imagine how they could be used on a lockring tool.
I looked up pliers and found many other types. Which type would you recommend for a lockring tool?