Setup the unit and attached the bike. Manual says to use frame position 1 for 700 size wheels. My bike has the 700 size, so everything should be fine except the manual also says that “Ideally, your bike tire should be 1/2” from the floor." Mine is a full 1.5 inches off the ground! Using the lower leg position brings the wheel closer, but you wouldn’t be able to get 1/2" from the ground with a smaller wheel.
The manual goes on to state that (see step 7 under bike mounting) “Tightening knob will not increase resistance.” Then in step 8 they say “Turn the adjustment knob to the right for more resistance, and to the left for less.”
Am I missing something or are the people at Kurt Kinetics (insert your favorite derogatory term here)?
Well, I got a KK road machine, and setup went fine, BUT I never measured height of the wheel over the ground. And just kinda half read the setup procedure anyways. …BUT…
I got there Computer for Christmas, WOW is this thing a mess. The magnet for the rear wheel is this big old thing with a screw that holds it togeather, very different from the cateye one on the front wheel. Then the wire actually is 3 sections. One hardwired to the pickup, one hardwired to the handlebar mount, and a third that is an extension to connect the other two, VERY ODD, and cheap looking. Then the thing comes with one shrinkwrap tube to use on the connection. I dont know which on of the many is THE connection.
Ok got it set up, the set key works very speratically. Then while riding the thing loses the signal, wiggle the computer in the handlebar mount it returns. It does this several times in a 1 hr ride. Starting to think this one may go back ya see the watts is nice but not sure it is worth all the hassles. Oh ya and one of the zipp ties was defective and the hole was actually closed over. I have never seen this in a zipp tie (they must be buying the good stuff).
Any chances of a pic with the bike mounted? That may help the forum to assess what is wrong.
The manual is a little double talky- most likely written in haste. The point they’re trying to make in Step 7 is that tightening the knob is not the way to control resistance of the trainer, and in Step 8 they’re refering to the resistance on the wheel to prevent the tire from slipping. It’s a touch confusing, but a great ride, the trainer will make you strong like bull.
You’re worried about an inch? Just ride the thing.
Nice power computer, huh?
There was a thread last spring started by someone at Kurt looking for feedback on their computer. I guess they haven’t gotten around to addressing their customer’s concerns.
I, too, just set up my KK & noticed the same thing. I have 650s, which the manual says I should be in hole #2, & my tire is also about 1.5" off the ground. Hey, I’m on it, it works, & I’m working off all the wine I drank over the holidays!
Your assumptions are correct in this case and the manual is incorrect. I have sold well over 100 of the trainers this season and we use the trainers here in the store for fitting. First off, good for you for actually reading your owner’s manual. Turning the adjustment nob tighter or looser on the tire will not change the resistance as it is intended to be. It may have this effect, but at the cost of higher tire friction. This will only accelerate your tire wear unneccesarily. Ideally, adjust the force applied to the tire with the adjustment knob such that it is difficult to skid the tire against the resistance roller by turning the wheel with your hand. You should still be able to skid the tire against the resistance roller by turning the wheel with your hand, but it should require some force. Again, this adjustment **is not **intended to vary resistance. The owner’s manual is wrong. I just walked out onthe floor to look at how high the rear wheel is off the ground on my bike when mounted in the trainer. It is about 1.5 inches. Also, we are putting 700c wheel and 650c wheel bikes in there without making any changes to the mounting hardware. We have been doing it simply by turning the adjustment knob tighter or looser. Seems to work fine.
In general if you have any questions, post them here or give us (Bikesport, Inc) a call and we’ll be happy to help out.
Thank you all for the response/advice.
I plan to use the lowest setting (meant for mountain bike wheels) to get the bike as level as possible.
You’re welcome. Remember, a good way to level the bike is to use a riser block. There are several available commercially such as the Cycle-Ops, Blackburn and Rav-X riser blocks from your local bike shop or you can just put a phone book (admittedly not entirely stable but suffices temporarily) under your front wheel to raise it up so the bike is level.
Good luck! Way to go!
Tom, or anybody. Any issues in using a 2x6 (which is 1.5" thick). Thats what Im, using and it seems very stable. (Now tonight I will probably crash).
As long as it holds relatively stable that should be just fine. The thing is, if you get out of the saddle suddenly for an acceleration you want to remember your front wheel is not nailed to the floor per se’, and there may be some wiggle there. If you have a router you could make your own track block/front wheel support by routing a wheel groove into the wood for the front tire to seat into.