Alright now, I’ve gotta ask before these bitches get the hammer.
On my TT bike, it was working and quit. I changed the battery and again no way.
On my road bike, it was working fine and stopped. I changed the battery and again no response. I went out and bought another sensor and it works sometimes, but will jump between 7mph and 20mph for apparent reason. After this last ride today, it totally stopped working. I went back to Radio Shack again to get even more batteries and again…it’s not working.
Has anybody else had this much drama with the Polar Speed sensors? I’ve fucked around with the magnet location, etc. I’ve even called their technical assistance and nobody answers the phone. I’m talking never. I’ve tried to call since last week. Not even a voice message.
Bottomline…is it time to switch to a Garmin? I would hate to put out more cha ching right now, but this needs an ending soon. Who has a Garmin, but prefers Polar?
My S-series speed sensor is acting up also. I’m going to give it a new battery tonight and see if that solves it. If it doesn’t then I’m declaring it as BER (beyond economical repair) and justifying a shopping trip for a new toy…just can’t decide which one. I guess I’m secretly hoping the new battery doesn’t work!
Time to get a Garmin…accurate, no crap on your bike, gives you all kinds of data and works much better than my Polars ever did…the S625x was cool but then the sensor and the foot pod and the actual watch all needed so much time in the “special polar repair center” that it was gone more than it was on my wrist.
I remember experiencing lots of trouble with the old, wireless Protrainer XT speed sensor, meaning this one:
I don’t know if the following also applies to the newer speed sensor models, but the old one was extremely sensitive regarding proper installation/orientation in relation to the spoke magnet and the watch.
The big, flat side (featuring the Polar logo and indicator led) had to be oriented forward, facing the wind, and with the small side facing the magnet. That was counter-intuitive, it looked weird and totally un-aero even to non-ST’ers - but it was the only way the sensor would work reliably!
Initially, I had installed it incorrectly (with the big face parallel to the wheel). It took me some time to find that out because the sensor would appear to work correctly for about 5 minutes, then fail intermittently, and after about 15 minutes into the ride it would not work at all. Weird behaviour! Of course, it made you suspect the battery at first…
The sensors are fairly sensitive to placement but as long as you’re using a decent magnet you should have 2-3mm of gap that you can set up and that isn’t too bad. I usually run my magnet so it goes right by the centerline of the sensor but I almost think it’s supposed to go top or bottom, sorry, can’t remember off the top of my head.
Any chance the watch could be messed up or maybe you moved the location of the head/watch unit? Sometimes if the speed sensor is tucked under the brake or there ends up being to much stuff in between the transmitter and display it seems to cut out. Not sure why as it’s RF but it still seems that way to me.
Personally I’ve had great results with the speed sensors and can’t see any reason I’d want a huge Garmin on there when I can have a nice and clean little Polar on my bike.
cadence, blah, it’s probably my fault but I constantly knock the damn pickup out of place. Think I’ll pick up one of those rare earth magnets from Radio shack and try that…
The sensors are fairly sensitive to placement but as long as you’re using a decent magnet you should have 2-3mm of gap that you can set up and that isn’t too bad. I usually run my magnet so it goes right by the centerline of the sensor but I almost think it’s supposed to go top or bottom, sorry, can’t remember off the top of my head.
Any chance the watch could be messed up or maybe you moved the location of the head/watch unit? Sometimes if the speed sensor is tucked under the brake or there ends up being to much stuff in between the transmitter and display it seems to cut out. Not sure why as it’s RF but it still seems that way to me.
Personally I’ve had great results with the speed sensors and can’t see any reason I’d want a huge Garmin on there when I can have a nice and clean little Polar on my bike.
cadence, blah, it’s probably my fault but I constantly knock the damn pickup out of place. Think I’ll pick up one of those rare earth magnets from Radio shack and try that…
It should not be the watch. I just got it back from the repair center for getting the battery replaced and whatever else they claim they do to it at the time. My cadence has never been a problem. The thing that is really irritating me is nobody is picking up the damn phone at Polar to answer such a simple question.
Keep the Polar for the run… get a Powermeter for the bike.
Thank me later.
I think Santa is bringing me the Powermeter. I’m ahead of you on that one already and I’ve never had one problem with the footpod. But in the meantime, I just don’t want to give Polar another dime of my cash. The other thing is and I did not want to sound like I have to buy every gadget there is, because that is far from the truth. Hell, I’ve never even looked at a Garmin. But my wife released the funds (unexpectantly) for a Computrainer last week and it was delivered 2 days ago So if I have to spend another dime, I will just get a Garmin because of what it can do with the Computrainer and she can use it as well. But in a perfect world, I’d rather save my dough and wished the Polar simply worked.
Try moving the jumper in the speed sensor to boost the signal strength. I don’t remember offhand what position you need to move it to, but I’m sure Google can help with that (it might even be in the instructions).
Are you getting a blinking LED on the speed sensor but no reading on the HRM, or no blinking light? If it’s the former, it sounds like the watch is still too far from the sensor. In this case, try moving the sensor further up the fork closer to the HRM. If the latter, sounds like either the gap between the sensor and magnet is too wide, or your sensor is dead.
Sounds like the watch or the positioning of the watch in relation to the sensor. If it is an S series sensor you can boost the transmission power. I posted instructions on my site: http://www.discursive.net/...bike_sensors_sp.html
Mudflaps, I’ll try this tonight. Thanks a ton. Perhaps this will work. I would prefer to not tell my wife I’m spending money on a Garmin right now.
No blinking light. I tested with the watch, the sensor and the magnet all within 6 inches. I think I have a dead sensor. Guess I’m about to find out how good the Polar service center is again.
Are you getting a blinking LED on the speed sensor but no reading on the HRM, or no blinking light? If it’s the former, it sounds like the watch is still too far from the sensor. In this case, try moving the sensor further up the fork closer to the HRM. If the latter, sounds like either the gap between the sensor and magnet is too wide, or your sensor is dead.
I was getting the blinking light, but nothing on my watch. I’ve used it for 2 years and never had a problem. I’ve moved it up the fork even closer, played around with different magnets, bought a new sensor and nothing. I’m going to go with Mudflaps idea now that I know what a jumper is. If that does not work…I probably will use the hammer, because I do no need closure to this.
So if I have to spend another dime, I will just get a Garmin because of what it can do with the Computrainer and she can use it as well. But in a perfect world, I’d rather save my dough and wished the Polar simply worked.