I need a new HRM and was wondering if anyone had experience with the SD models? I’ll only be using it for running. Are the speed and distance functions accurate? I’m looking at the 200SD specifically. Any thoughts?
asked rroof about his 200SD unit here`s what he said:
Well … lots of little glitches. First one flooded twice (first at IMFL last year no less). Sent back under warranty no problems. Second has the occasional full screen “freak out” (for lack of a better way to describe it) - common I hear. Press all buttons to reset: no big deal.
I calibrated on a track. If you switch shoes, you have to re-calibrate. When I race (if I use it, usually don’t in a race), it will read a little slow since I’m running so much faster. Just take note of how much slower at the mile marker/splits, and you can then just go from there. It is very reproducible (if no accurate) even when switching shoes.
When training, especially when not in a lot of hills, it is very accurate at the PACE you calibrated it at. Don’t notice the foot pod at all. HR monitor is spot on as you’d expect with Polar.
the 800 model is better but the rpice is not
I’ve got one and it really works well. Yes, you may have to calibrate it for different shoes but that’s not very difficult.
Aside from the screen freak out every once in a while (2-3 months) I’ve not no issues with it.
Mine has been very accurate on flats, hills and at different speeds. $200 for a HRM with speed you can use indoors, on cloudy days and in the woods on trails seems pretty good to me.
jaretj
can you explain more on calibrating on different shoes? but no need to run at the track to do so
Where I run, I know where my mile markers are. If in new shoes, I look to see what the watch says after the second mile. If it is off I will look to see how much, like maybe over by .05 miles.
.05 divided by 2 (miles) gives me .025 I then subtract that from the manual calibration number and then start running again.
The book explains how to do this as percentages but I don’t normally carry a calculator on my runs 
I really don’t mind going the whole run with it off a little for the first time with new shoes so I might even wait untill I get home to make the adjustment.
I do this on easier steady runs and not on the track cuz I have seen some odd reading on the track, maybe from the soft surface.
I’m pretty happy if I’m within .02 per mile which is better than the cheap GPS’s I have used.
Hope this helps
jaretj
i see ive been thinking of getting that model and the garmins are out of the question because of tree cover,powerlines and such so ill do some more researching.
I have had no problem with tree cover when using my Garmin Forerunner 305 even when running on trails. The new version is a huge jump over the old version my brother in law uses.
I think it’s the best HR monitor on the market based on:
-features: easy set HR zones, intervals, run speed, calories, customizable display…
-big easy to read display
-awesome chest strap
-small, light, fits well
-good gui, easy to figure out
-good run pod option, not 100% perfect but good bang for the buck
-2 year warranty
-COOL RED COLOR
-price…
screen does freak out occasionally, I averaged once every year in the last two years. Newer models are supposed to not have this problem.
This is the watch that 90% of my friends who have purchased HR monitors in the last year picked up and they all rave about it.
I have been using mine since around May. I love it for its many features, including the ave HR, max HR, custom exercise settings, and the exercise file that keeps 16 sessions in memory. The speed and distance feedback has helped me tremendously. I have the calibration pretty darn close, this Saturday’s 10K registered 6.18 miles (very acceptable 1/3 of 1% error). I did have to send it back for repair (no charge) which probably resulted from my pushing buttons under water for laps while swimming. Now I know that I can set it to an autolap function where it will take a lap if I put the watch close to the chest strap, so no need to push buttons. The regular autolap is a bit off. If you want the device to record your mile laps automatically, it will give you .99 mi per lap instead of 1 mi. I think this is because it is based on kilometers. I haven’t tried it, but it might be more accurate if used in the km/cm/kg setting. And the red is cool.