Does anyone have any experience with rs300x with GPS sensor? Is it usable for cycling? What is the signal quality? Issues?
I tried the G1 with an RS800SD for a while. The performance is good. It receives a signal through most conditions, and is generally accurate. Comparable to a Garmin.
I sold it, though, for two reasons. The G1 sensor is big and ungainly. I thought from the InterWeb pictures that it was like the size of a Polar S3 sensor, but it’s really, really big and heavy. It might be OK as a permanent fixture on the bike, but I never found it comfortable to run with.
And it was very frustrating and time consuming to download the data to my computer. Both the IRdA and morse code download processes are unwieldy. Some people do fine, others struggle. I would consider waiting for Polar’s new RF-based download system if you’re going to go Polar.
I’ve only used mine a few times and I’d say it’s just ok. It does lose the signal occaisionally but works most of the time (I’m usually just running in suburban neighborhoods - no skyscrapers or mountains around.)
I’ve only used it once for biking and didn’t have any issues with it. (Although I need to figure out how to change the setting on the watch to show me mph vs. min/mile) It matched up pretty close at the end with my bike computer.
The one thing it doesn’t do (that I’m aware of) is show me my run on a map when I upload it to the Web site. I guess I didn’t check to see if it would, but I kind of assumed that was a benefit of a GPS. However, it’s quite possible that it does have this functionality and I just haven’t put the effort into figuring out how to do it.
The watch unit itself is pretty intuitive and the buttons are easy to operate, etc. The G1 seems to pick up the signal pretty easily within a few minutes (I usually take it outside and set it on the ground while I’m putting on headphones, leashing the dog, etc. By the time I’m ready, it’s ready). Also, I’ve used it less than 10 hours and got the “low battery” warning last night. It might be the crappy battery they sent with it, so hopefully a better batter will last longer.
Another note - I don’t always wear my HRM, especially for shorter workouts, but the watch keeps trying to find it throughout the whole workout and beeps at me, which is annoying. The HRM is comfortable and seems to work accurately.
The selling point for me is that I can use the same watch for swim practice, biking and running (and other random things like working in the yard) and then have a GPS and/or HRM when I want it and the watch doesn’t look like a giant computer on my wrist.
I never like to be the first to reply to questions like this, so thank you to those that replied. Last week I road with my RS300x G1, took off the strap and clipped the G1 to my right side jersey pocket and had no issue tranmitting to my right wrist, even in the aero position.
I actually will run with it on my hip more than on my arm.
To switch SPEED VIEW 
you can do it two ways. In time of day mode, navigate with the right side buttons to SETTINGS, enter RED BUTTON, then FEATURES, then to SPEED VIEW, choose mph or min/mile.
Let’s say your riding in MPH and you transition off the bike, PRESS AND HOLD the LIGHT BUTTON to our QUICK MENU, watch will stay active, not be paused. Navigate to SPEED VIEW, swithc to min/mile, done
Here are a few litte tricks,
before bed, HOLD THE LIGHT BUTTON IN, navigate to SLEEP, and display goes nighty night, and save alittle battery life.
Press RED BUTTON once, navigate to SETTINGS>DISPLAY and customize all of your three rows per display, in all 5 windows of info
I have not done this, but you may be able to see the route on mapmyrun.com. The RS800CX has the memory to store the route data, I am not sure abot the RS300x and mapmyrun, sorry
Does this help everyone??