Looking for reviews or advise on the Polar powermeters - are they worth the savings or benefits compared to a powertap?
http://www.polarcycling.com/product_detail.php?current=CS600X_with_Power
I got a Polar power meter cheaply and gave it a try.
Accurate vs. PowerTap - my friend and I have the same FTP (30 min) and ride a similar week - power numbers are always mirror his. Generally, we are within a range of each other. On the CompuTrainer I get similar numbers too. Seems accurate.
The issue is the set up. It is a pain to set up. Over 1 hour easy. “junk” on the chainstay and battery pack are far from sexy. If you can get over the set up and appearances it is a fine low cost alternative.
That said - I have been saving for an SRM. That will be my next purchase.
I’ve had one for two years and have been very happy. The power sensor went out a few months ago so I just bought a used on on ebay. I also got a second one for my track bike.
The setup isnt that bad, it probably takes an hour to mount everything properly but its not rocket science…
The thing with power meters is they will all be slightly different but your number are your numbers. You would still train the same way whether your FTP is 300 or 250. I got the TrainingPeaks software this year and really like that to accompany the Polar power meter.
I use both a Powertap and a Polar CS600 on different bikes. The Polar is pretty good at recording data for post ride analysis, but the short term variation makes it hard to use as a pacing tool. I’ve put both on the same bike and the power tracks well over time periods over about 30 seconds. Any less than that, and I see strange readings from the Polar.
If you already have a Polar watch or CS600, it might make sense to pick up a power sensor. Otherwise I would pick up a Powertap, much fewer headaches.
Thom
Nobody has mentioned this yet, so thought I might chime in. Supposedly the power values calculated are good for regular riding, but aren’t accurate on the trainer. Having the rear wheel clamped changes the vibrations it uses to calculate watts, or something. Do a search about it.
If you can do it cheap, sure. But you can also pick up a used powertap cheap and save yourself the hassle.
Had one, it now sits in a box in my closet while I happily ride with a powertap.
You put the surfboard part on at the proper distance back so that it reads the cadence. Then you fabricate something to somehow make it so that the chain passes over the magnetized part in all gears. Then you adjust it so that the surfboard is within an inch or so of the chain (I forget how far).
Once you have that on and the watch holder part on off you go. If the watch happens to lose connection with the pins on the holder, and it does this reasonably often, you lose your feedback. If the wire going to watch holder gets loose, and it does, you lose feedback. If you are not such a hot fabricator and your surfboard moves so that the cadence doesn’t pick up, you lose feedback.
You also might be able to use it on the trainer, you might not. It is advertised as not working on the trainer.
Once you get it all setup, you need to do something to check you installation. Head to the steepest hill around so that wind is not an issue and ride up the hill in different gears and chainrings at the same speed. Go home and download the data and see if the powers match.
I finally did this after a year or two of trying to get the installation right. The powers changed dramatically from one chainring to the other, like by 100 watts for the same hill at the same speed.
When I got my wireless powertap, I put the rear wheel on, put the computer holder on and off I went.
I have a nonfunctioning power sensor for the S710 sitting in the basement. The plug that connects it to the watch mount failed after one season of use and I’ve never gotten around to sending it in to be fixed. I was becoming increasingly suspicious of the readings, felt it read low on the large chainring when in the larger cogs, and high on the small chainring and the smaller cogs, but it failed before I ran a formal test. The overall numbers seemed roughly plausible but the power drop anytime I went from small chainring to large was cause for concern. And yes, I diligently studied the online guides that give all the installation info that Polar neglected to provide.
The 710 watch is a well designed piece of equipment but the power module does not come close to meeting the same standards. Perhaps the newer ones are better, but I’d unquestionably say go with the powertap, there are some good deals now if you look around, competitive cyclist had some great prices recently. Don’t do me much good because as far as the wife is concerned I spent money on a power meter and another PM purchase is off the table until the economy turns around.
So I guess you can call me an unhappy customer.
I love mine it is great. I have a computrainer and I find the numbers are similar but not the same. I dont really use it for power on the CT. But on the road it is great. The install is the hardest part.
I’ve had my CS600 w/pwr for 8 months now. It’s actually been on two bikes since I picked up my Elite about 3 months ago moving it from the felt s22. Whether the numbers are high or low, I consider them consistent. Like someone said before, you can see some strange numbers instantaneously, but when you review your ride afterwards in the software it becomes more normal.
Overall I am happy with it and like the fact that I don’t have to change a thing when I switch to my race wheels. Again I’ll agree with others that the installation takes a while & some patience. Also, the shape of the chainstay has a dramatic effect on the reliability of the readings. Since it’s been on my Elite with very straight chainstays I have not had a single issue with dropped/no pwr readings. While it was on my S22, with what I would call mostly straight stays, I would experience dropped pwr readings once, especially after hitting a pothole or jarring bump, it usually would be out for several minutes. I’m just speculating here that more elaborate and shaped chainstays would make the installation even more difficult and increase the possibility of dropped pwr.
The batteries that came with the unit lasted about 3 months. I’ve put the energizer advanced lithium (i think, at least an extra pwr one) in and no issues for 5 months, and I’ve put a lot more miles on in the last couple months.
One minor issue I’ve had is the speed sensor. When I switch to my race wheel, I have to re"teach" the speed sensor, I’m not sure why since the sensor is unchanged, just picking up a different magnet. But now I just re"teach" when swapping and it’s good to go.