Hey Guys,
Quick question for the bike mechanics out there. Long story short: I over-tightened my lock-ring on my bike that resulted in this: http://imgur.com/P0Ouuvj
I read a few articles on how tight the lock-ring should be, and it sounded like you can’t really overtighten it. Well, it looks like I did. Is this normal? So in reality, how tight should that lock-ring be?
Thanks!
Does your cassette not tell you how tight it should be and do you own a torque wrench?
Dude, Just a few click, maybe 5ish.
Go get a new free hub body and give it another shot.
http://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/how-to-replace-a-shimano-freehub-video-42826/
Typically it is 40nm. You can definitely overtorque it, as you know now. Every casssette I have the 40nm is stamped right on it.
I read a few articles on how tight the lock-ring should be, and it sounded like you can’t really overtighten it.
I’m interested in those articles if you can send a link or two.
40nm is a pretty hefty amount of force. Maybe he just had a faulty part. I definitely don’t tighten my lockrings that much.
40nm is a pretty hefty amount of force. Maybe he just had a faulty part. I definitely don’t tighten my lockrings that much.
Yeah, I mean, what the hell does the manufacturer know about it?
It’s hard to tell from the picture, but will the lockring hold a cassette on there tight? If yes, I’d just roll with it. If no, then you’re going to need a new freehub body, or maybe an entire new hub or wheel. You don’t need to make it super tight, just snug.
It looks like you didn’t really have too many threads engaged on the lockring. Were you trying to use a spacer behind the cassette when you shouldn’t have or something similar? I’d say that 95% of people don’t get to 40Nm when tightening their lockring.
It is (was) an 11 speed free-hub body, and there were some spacers between the gears. Maybe I should have taken some out?
I’d say unless you somehow had and extra spacer of some kind, you had a defective freehub. Did you by any chance put the spacer that you need for a 10 speed cassette on there with an 11 speed cassette?
The shop will say that you over tightened it but I used to really put the boots to my mountain bike cassette lock nuts and never saw anything like that happen.
I’d follow that up with what cassette and hub you’re using too, it can be a bit of a minefield regarding spacers but I was running one too many for about a year on my winter bike when I switched from a 5700 to a 4600 cassette and wrongly assumed the spacing was the same. I always thought it was a struggle to get the lock ring on that hub and I eventually figured out why!
Yeah, but unless your cassette and hub are made by the same manufacturer then it doesn’t mean jack.
Shimano can stamp whatever the hell they like on their lock rings, doesn’t mean that a Mavic freehub can take that torque and that’s before we get into the whole dry vs lubed threads debate again.
Its like when people consult the torque specs stamped on the side of their alloy stem and then wonder why they’ve cracked their carbon steerer…
40nm is a pretty hefty amount of force. Maybe he just had a faulty part. I definitely don’t tighten my lockrings that much.
As with many situations like this, it definitely involves a faulty part. The thing is that (with all due respect) the fault is usually on the part of the tool operator, not on the bike components.
It is (was) an 11 speed free-hub body, and there were some spacers between the gears. Maybe I should have taken some out?
You would definitely need to keep whatever spacers were between the gears, otherwise the chain would not have room to engage. However, there are detail differences in the stackup heights of 8, 9, 10, and 11 speed freehubs (and also differences in the lockring you get for cassettes with 12 or 11 tooth small rings) so it’s important to check stuff carefully to make sure that the right spacers (behind the cassette) are either in place or removed as required.
I possible, likely, scenario is that the cogs weren’t fully seated, or there were too many spacers. Lockring went on, engaged with one-ish thread, then got muscled on. 40Nm is no big deal for for a lot of threads, for one thread in aluminum… Well, I guess we know the ending of that story.
I ran into this same problem this weekend… Had a severely bitten freehub spline, the 11T was sitting on a bite rather than the 12T. Tightened the lock ring ‘appropriately tight’ and all the other cogs had a bit of play (maybe 0.002" on the spline). Kept playing with it until could figure out exactly how the 11T had to go on to not prematurely bottom.