Official power2max support thread

Dear slowtwitchers,

opening the official power2max support thread to help with any questions, issues, etc. Feel free to ask away!

Best
Nicolas from power2max

Nope … no questions.
Just a chance to say thanks for a great product and your support!
A+ in all regards.
Oh … and good luck in Kona Nick!
-YT

Ok, I’ll start. I have a P2M with a 110BCD spider adapter for a Rotor 3D+ crank. If I wanted to move my current P2M over to my MTB, with a 110/74 BCD double CR and a Rotor 3D crank, would that pose a problem at all or would it be a straight swap over since both are 110 outer CR bolt patterns? I might be interested in the new P2M when it becomes available and I want to start planning moving things about.

Regards,
Dave

Hi Dave,

unfortunately that doesn’t work for two reasons: firstly the MTB sensor is completely different (4 bolts vs 5 bolts, adapter for inner chain ring, and different chain line). Also the sensor differs between the 3D and 3D+ - the cranks have different interfaces.

Cheers
Nicolas

Hi have a Cannondale Slice which has BB30 and a Gossamer Crank (110mm) if I buy the p2m with the FSA crank that’s on sale I would have to buy the adaptor as well (Rotor BB30 to BB24 which is also on your site?). With this I could use my existing chainrings as well? Last question does the PMeter have a temp sensor?

Thanks,
Rob

Nicolas,

Is there an appropriate Power2max combination to give one 155mm cranks that would easily go on a Trek Speed Concept?

Thanks,

Hugh

Is there an appropriate Power2max combination to give one 155mm cranks that would easily go on a Trek Speed Concept?

Not Nicolas, but the Rotor 3D and 3D+ are the only P2M-compatible cranks that you can get with a 155mm crank length. And the 3D+ is BB30, so you’re left with the 3D as the only option assuming you can find a bottom bracket that will work with whatever is on the SC (BB90?).

Is there an appropriate Power2max combination to give one 155mm cranks that would easily go on a Trek Speed Concept?

Not Nicolas, but the Rotor 3D and 3D+ are the only P2M-compatible cranks that you can get with a 155mm crank length. And the 3D+ is BB30, so you’re left with the 3D as the only option assuming you can find a bottom bracket that will work with whatever is on the SC (BB90?).

Thanks…That had been my impression but wanted to double check. The SC is a BB90 so one obviously needs the appropriate bearings to mate the 3D to that frame.

Hugh

Ditto. I haven’t had any issues with the product since I first installed it. Very happy.

Which power2max power meter would I get for my bone stock Cervelo P5-three bike? It has a 54/36 Rotor 3D+ front crank and if you need anymore information on that, well, I’m totally dumb on those type things. I just get on it an pedal. : )

Christmas is coming and this is what Santa is bringing me, whether (s)he knows it or not.

Thanks!

Toby

@ Rob: that’s right, the bb30to24 is the right bottom bracket. You’ll be able to use your existing chain rings without problems. And yes our power meters have active temperature compensation.

@Hugh:the 3D is indeed the crank of choice, but unfortunately the shortest we have is 165mm.

Best
Nicolas

Which power2max power meter would I get for my bone stock Cervelo P5-three bike? It has a 54/36 Rotor 3D+ front crank and if you need anymore information on that, well, I’m totally dumb on those type things. I just get on it an pedal. : )

Christmas is coming and this is what Santa is bringing me, whether (s)he knows it or not.

Thanks!

Toby

Hi Toby ,

54/36 sounds odd , could out be 52/36? In this case all you need is the sensor for 3D+ cranks and the installation tool and you’re good to go.

Best
Nicolas

The SC is a BB90 so one obviously needs the appropriate bearings to mate the 3D to that frame.
You just get the standard Trek bearings for a Shimano crankset, the 3D is interchangeable with Shimano. The interface between the P2Max and 3D is the same as the stock 3D (unlike SRM), so you can source a 155mm 3D crankset separately and fit it to a P2Max spider. I had to do that to get a 165mm P2Max at a time when P2Max didn’t offer 165mm.

I’ve obviously slept since I’ve looked at my bike. Crap…you’re right (and let the flaming begin)…it’s a 52/36.

Thanks!

@Hugh:the 3D is indeed the crank of choice, but unfortunately the shortest we have is 165mm.

If one bought a 155mm Rotor3D crank separately, could the P2M sensor be used on it? Or is there some modification to the crankarms or some interference that would prevent the shorter arms from being used?

hi,

got my P2M yesterday and am using it with the navi2coach.

my question now is regarding the calibration before each ride. is it necessary to do a manual zero before the ride? I guess not as it should zero when not pedaling for 3 sec right? But in the navi2coach setting for the powermeter it says that auto-zero is not supported.

thanks,
Jakob

My question too is about the auto calibration.
Does the auto calibration feature actually change the calibration value or does it just change the internal processing algorithm?
For instance, if I start a ride and my calibration is at 1249 and then during the ride that experiences a huge temperature swing, and provided I stop pedalling a few times for the autocalibrate to kick in, will the calibration factor I see on my head unit after the ride change from 1249?
thanks

Nope … no questions.
Just a chance to say thanks for a great product and your support!
A+ in all regards.
Oh … and good luck in Kona Nick!
-YT

X2 very happy with the product by now

Just ordered the P2Max for my new P3 and I’m waiting anxiously for it to arrive. I have Rotor 3df cranks so I just ordered the power meter itself. Anybody know how hard it is to install? I actually asked a few of the LBS around here and nobody had even heard of it.

Just ordered the P2Max for my new P3 and I’m waiting anxiously for it to arrive. I have Rotor 3df cranks so I just ordered the power meter itself. Anybody know how hard it is to install? I actually asked a few of the LBS around here and nobody had even heard of it.

VERY easy. to attach the sensor to the crank (instead of the spider) they will send you the rotor tool and then you only need a 32mm wrench to tighten it. put the rings on and inseart the batterie and that’s it.