Do you have any idea how to get angle adjustment on a J5/Supersonic bracket with risers (I think 50mm). Rotating around basebar leads to other fit problems…
Is the loss of reach a problem? Have you flipped the brackets forward prior to tilting? I have my supersonics in the forward orientation and tilted to 15deg. There isn’t a product from PD to tilt the SS any other way.
Also, how long will the ASC extensions be in the large version uncut?
Thanks for getting back to me.
Unfortunately, reach (and hitting my knees against elbows) are issues - I am rather tall, 204cm/6’8" with long limbs.
I have my current extensions maxed out, hence the question about the ASC length.
What is your frame model and Pad XY/tilt?
As well as stem length/angle?
(I’m cross posting here and in the Official QR Fit thread)
I have a new QR PRFour with a Profile Design cockpit that feels too small. I have the seat set back and the extensions moved forward as far as possible. I also have the pads as far forward as possible. My most comfortable position has the tips of my elbows on the pads and my hands dangling over my mechanical 105 shifters (and even then I can only stay in the extensions for 4-5 mins at a time).
Should I try getting a longer stem? The bike has a 70mm PD stem; I’m thinking of getting an 80 or 90mm stem. Or do I need a different bike?
I think those are Dura-Ace shifters.
You need a lot more reach.
I’m afraid you need a frame two sizes larger (maybe even 3, would have to do a proper fit to know)
Shorter cranks would be nice too
You don’t want to be in a situation where you are making yourself fit to the bike (which is what you’ve been trying to do) instead of making the bike fit you
.
I’m afraid you need a frame two sizes larger (maybe even 3, would have to do a proper fit to know)
Shorter cranks would be nice too
You don’t want to be in a situation where you are making yourself fit to the bike (which is what you’ve been trying to do) instead of making the bike fit you
Thanks. It’s incredibly depressing to know I paid to be measured/fitted and ended up with purchasing a bike I can’t use in 5 weeks for a HIM. Was really hoping a longer stem would solve my problems.
What is the crank arm length?
Thanks. It’s incredibly depressing to know I paid to be measured/fitted and ended up with purchasing a bike I can’t use in 5 weeks for a HIM. Was really hoping a longer stem would solve my problems.
Sorry about that.
If you need a solution for 5 weeks time, then sure - get a 40mm longer stem, it will feel a lot better. But it will make the bike feel less stable, whether or not that is a problem is individual - some people don’t care and others do.
What info were you given from the fit?
What is the crank arm length?
165mm
@cyclenutnz, what makes you think I need shorter cranks?
Sorry about that.
If you need a solution for 5 weeks time, then sure - get a 40mm longer stem, it will feel a lot better. But it will make the bike feel less stable, whether or not that is a problem is individual - some people don’t care and others do.
What info were you given from the fit?
Below is a data handout I was given for my fit. The QR PRFour data is in the far right column. My pads are further forward than noted in the handout, as I moved them to try and get more reach.
The other two columns are before and after fits on my Canyon Endurace road bike (incorrectly labeled as Canyon Ultimate). The Endurace (size S) I purchased years ago without being measured by a fitter and it turned out to be too small. I brought it to a fitter (different than the QR) who put on a longer stem. I still suspect the bike is too small (reach). Anyway, I mention it because I suspect the new fitter based my QR measurements/recommendation on my Canyon.
There is no reason why you couldn’t try for example 100, 110, or 120 mm stem. If anything, I would guess that having that longer stem makes handling more stable, which isn’t a bad thing especially in a tri/tt bike. Remember that 40 mm (more reach) is roughly equivalent to two frame sizes, so you have plenty of adjustability. That’s the beauty of those non integrated cockpits…
(Fwiw I would try a 120 mm stem and if that’s already too long, you’d anyway have the chance to move the armpads rearwards.)
If anything, I would guess that having that longer stem makes handling more stable,
You’re confusing road handling, where a longer steering lever reduces the input required to make a manoeuvre
And tri handling, where putting more weight over the front wheel can make the bike feel unstable (again, rider dependent)
It’s more likely on a small frame where there isn’t much front centre to start with
The OP has compensated for not enough reach by moving the saddle back, so needs a lot more length in the cockpit - which could be addressed in the short term with a longer stem (and there is 7.5mm more reach on the armrests) but I wouldn’t like to advise someone new to tri bikes to be finding a 140mm stem
.
I haven’t had anyone your height prefer 165mm cranks or have better fit numbers (using motion capture) since I got a fit bike with adjustable cranks. I wrote on the topic in some detail here.
Your fitter sized the bike well with he information they had, the QR fitting document gives the coordinates shown (but their tool not graphical)
Your coordinates are middle of the reach range
The failing in this calculation is industry standard. No one calculates for the impact of tilt
Which pushes you right to the front of the reach range, just to hit the original target coordinates
So that explains part of the problem, the tools available to your fitter are inadequate
The other part of the problem is how you arrived at the position in the fit. This could be that the fitter didn’t try stretching you out or you weren’t able to provide useful feedback on different positions.
What you’ve done now is compensated for feeling cramped by shifting the saddle back to get more distance to the bars, but that cramped up up your hip, so you raised the bars to relieve that.
This is what happens if we add 40mm to your current pad x and keep pad y about the same as you’ve set it (not from fit data)
As mentioned - a 120mm stem would be a way to try out a longer position, but ideally a larger frame would be the nicer solution
If anything, I would guess that having that longer stem makes handling more stable,
You’re confusing road handling, where a longer steering lever reduces the input required to make a manoeuvre
And tri handling, where putting more weight over the front wheel can make the bike feel unstable (again, rider dependent)
I’m perfectly aware of those two factors, and sure it can be that nanban_ronin’s weight distribution will be too far forward with a longer stem, but as said, needs to test and just see how he feels on it.
Actually, in addition to maneuvering and weight distribution, there’s a third factor to how stable you are/feel on the bike. (A bit difficult to explain without a picture, so hope the following makes sense.) When the reach is too small, the center of rotation (i.e. where elbows contact the pads) of your body might be too far back and you feel like you are falling over the bike. Moving the center of rotation forward (e.g. with a longer stem) should improve stability from this perspective and in addition provide nice support towards which your elbows can lean if you have bit of tilt in the bars/pads.
Sure a bigger frame would be a more optimal solution but I don’t see any reason why not to try a longer stem meanwhile. Costs maybe 20-30$ and should be in stock in any bike shop.
I haven’t had anyone your height prefer 165mm cranks or have better fit numbers (using motion capture) since I got a fit bike with adjustable cranks. I wrote on the topic in some detail here.
Thanks, cyclenutnz. That blog post was interesting, I wasn’t aware of the advantage of smaller cranks. Although 140-150mm cranks sound shockingly short.
So that explains part of the problem, the tools available to your fitter are inadequate
The other part of the problem is how you arrived at the position in the fit. This could be that the fitter didn’t try stretching you out or you weren’t able to provide useful feedback on different positions.
My fitter’s methodology was to first measure and fit me on my road bike, which I believe to be too small (I consulted no one when purchasing it). He then moved me to a fit bike and we carried over most of the same measurements. He also seemed to think I was really flexible and could hold an aggressive aero position (I can’t touch my toes).
This is what happens if we add 40mm to your current pad x and keep pad y about the same as you’ve set it (not from fit data)
As mentioned - a 120mm stem would be a way to try out a longer position, but ideally a larger frame would be the nicer solution
I can’t say I fully understand how these data and graphs work, but I do see a size 50 with a 120mm stem still has me at the edge of the dot grid and utilizes a lot of spacers.
Road bike fit and flexibility don’t have a lot to do with fit on a TT bike.
Hi Cyclenut,
I have a shiv tri disc and it’s a bit of a punish to angle the extensions but I have found a couple companies that make an angled spacer for the central stack.
Keen to understand the height rise on those snazzy new ASC43 extensions and the degree of tilt most people would go with if they’re looking for a higher hands position.
The angled spacers I’ve found come in 10, 15 or 20 degree options.
I’ve previously used a tririg bar with 115mm height rise and a 7 degree spacer under arm rests. That was comfortable but height rise from pads to top of extensions ends up being around 100mm and I figure I could go higher.
Hi Cookies
The rise on the 43ASC is intended to pair with a long armrest in full contact with the arm, it’s not really going to work if you like to put your elbow on the pad and raise your hands up. You can see on the diagram I posted earlier in the thread that the rise is ~90mm (measured to centres)
Usually I find riders achieve good comfort and bracing with a 10-15deg angle.
That’s a quick sketch of an armrest tilted 7deg with a 115mm rise extension for a fairly average length setup
You can see the equivalent rise if the extension had tilted with the pad would be 74mm
So if you can tilt the whole mono on your bike the 43ASC will give you ~16mm more rise than this example
As mentioned - a 120mm stem would be a way to try out a longer position, but ideally a larger frame would be the nicer solution
Hi Cyclenutnz, what size QR PRFour and stem would work better than my size 50 with a 120mm? I think you used a size 54 and 80mm stem in your analysis. I’m working towards exchanging my bike. Thanks!
